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Figure 1. 
A Task before Retiring. 



THE SKIN 



Its Care and Treatment 



BY 

EMILY LLOYD 

Teaching every detail of this 

important work, in a simple, 

concise and practical 

manner 



SECOND EDITION 

Re-written and Greatly Enlarged 



Mcintosh Battery & Optical Company 

CHICAGO 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies deceived 

FEB a? 1905 

Copyngni unify 
CLASS CL XXc. N« f 
COPY 8. 



Copyright, 1904 
McIntosh Battery & Optical Co 



^ 



DEDICATION 



To the earnest student who realizes the vital need for 
thorough instruction in the important work of caring for 
the skin, this book is affectionately dedicated. That the 
experience of years may have been sufficient to make 
this volume a trusty guide to others who are but com- 
mencing their work, is the ardent wish of the author. 

In this second edition we have added many new full- 
page illustrations, and have made such valuable revision 
and amplification as will assure its gracious welcome by 
the many who wish correct information on the care of the 
Skin and Scalp. 



INTRODUCTION, 



The desire to understand the best manner of caring for 
the skin, and what materials to use in this work, is one that 
has become very generally acknowledged by intelligent 
women within the past five years. Before this time, al- 
though perhaps quite as many were interested, there was 
an impression that a poor complexion could not be improved, 
while a good one needed nothing to preserve its beauty. 
The first wrinkle was greeted as a natural consequence, even 
though it appeared at twenty-five in one woman, ten years 
later in another, and perhaps during school days in another. 
Crow's feet were expected, and came obligingly, quite pre- 
pared to remain. The yellow tinge, so disastrous to the 
blonde, was immediately labeled as liver trouble, and all 
of these defects allowed to become chronic afflictions instead 
of being temporary blemishes. 

To the best dermatologists, much of this misapprehension 
is due, for, engrossed by the study and treatment of strange 
eczemas, obscure skin eruptions and malignant growths, 
these other matters have seemed so trifling that they have 
either neglected to pay any attention to this branch, or given 
advice so carelessly that the patients had not confidence 
enough in the results to attempt the work. These so-called 
trifles often make or mar a woman's happiness, and instead 
of being laughingly told that she is foolish to attempt to 
defer the coming of old age, and the appearance of the 
many folds and the sallow skin, she should be assured that 
the beauty of any skin may be preserved indefinitely with 
proper care, while poor complexions may be made wonder- 
fully better. 



in 



iv INTRODUCTION. 

The careful housewife is well aware that constant at- 
tention is necessary if she would keep her home attractive. 
This same rule applies to the care of the face and the body. 
It has been the aim of the author to explain to women that 
if they would obtain the desired results, there must not only 
be the necessary applications, but also sufficient attention to 
the diet, the daily bath, and the proper exercise. 

The maiden should be instructed not only what to do for 
the skin, but also what to avoid. The wise mother realizes 
this, and copies the method of the successful gardener. As 
he with pruning knife and shears clips away the weakening 
tendrils, and plucks out weeds that threaten to hamper the 
growth of the vine, so must she watchfully tear away dis- 
agreeable peculiarities and weed out harmful habits if she 
would see the tender bud develop into the glorious blos- 
som. 

Instead of being discouraged in the practice of the little 
vanities so natural to the heart of the young girl, she should 
be wisely directed, and carefully instructed in the anatomy 
of the skin, its possibilities and its limitations. The average 
maiden has an ardent desire to be beautiful. Every heroine 
she can remember from the "Sleeping Princess" of her 
childhood days to the mysterious and fascinating produc- 
tion of the modern novelist, has been as enchanting as the 
writer's pen could make her. Naturally, she, too, dreams 
of becoming a vision so bewildering that all shall adore 
her, and seeks impatiently for the aid that shall transform 
her. Denied the sympathy she craves at home, she will 
wander forth intent only on her mission, and thus too often 
becomes the prey of unscrupulous "semi-professionals, " who 
make impossible promises and charge outrageous prices for 
harmful work. 

The awakening from an experience of this kind is bitter 



INTRODUCTION. v 

indeed and the result is seen in the soured and suspicious 
women who doubt the existence of real benefit in anything 
pertaining to the care of the skin. They will not only re- 
fuse to be coaxed into trying remedies themselves, but also 
use their influence to persuade their friends that all such 
work is useless. The only argument to be used against 
the endeavors of people of this type is the very conclusive 
one of proving to them what may be accomplished by em- 
ploying simple, natural methods. 

There are in reality very few hopelessly plain women. 
Care will perform wonders for any one, and the earlier in 
life this lesson is learned the better for the student. 

The girl with the Rocky Mountain features, sandy hair 
and freckles may make herself positively repulsive by pull- 
ing her hair tightly back and fastening it in a tight knot at 
the back of her head, exposing herself with no protection to 
the skin, in all kinds of weather, and finally by degenerating 
into a round-shouldered, bony picture of "despair. A little 
attention, a few words of advice, wise direction, and be- 
hold, a willowy, smiling vision, the really fine hair loosely 
coiled about the head, softening the outline of the features, 
the complexion soft and beautiful as a result of the neces- 
sary exertion morning and evening. Contentment has re- 
placed morbid dissatisfaction and a spirit of good fellow- 
ship impels her to help others to learn what may be done 
for them. 

The swarthy maiden with heavy, black, bristling brows 
meeting in a point over the center of the nose, dull, color- 
less complexion, awkward, ambling gait and oily, coarse 
skin, is quite as desperate until she learns that the electric 
needle will permanently remove the point ; tiny scissors trim 
the bristles into the delicate arch, proper care, refine and 
bleach the skin. Practice in physical culture will soon en- 



vi INTRODUCTION. 

tirely change the carriage, and if under all this care the 
color does not appear, a harmless tint may be employed, and 
behold a different creature, her black eyes glowing with hap- 
piness, her presence breathing of good health. 

The nondescript damsel, with eyes, hair and complexion 
that seem to have been selected from a jumble and thrown 
carelessly at her, has the most difficult time of all. A little 
study will enable her to find the style she should adopt, and 
then she must work accordingly. Invisible eyebrows may be 
coaxed into a well defined line, the fiery freckles frightened 
away by the use of ointments, the figure will develop aston- 
ishingly under proper -work, and in short the "ugly duck- 
ling" will disappear and graciously give place to the beau- 
tiful swan. 

So instances may be multiplied, in which a little knowl- 
edge has been of inestimable benefit to those who by im- 
proved appearance may alter the conditions of their life. 
Nature's failures are too numerous to convince the student 
that "whatever is, is right." She must learn to discriminate, 
and must resolve to spare no effort toward repairing de- 
fects that may exist, as well as to use discretion in preserv- 
ing the perfect skin that is occasionally found. Love of the 
beautiful is natural and universal, and those who have not 
the good fortune to be born with all the attributes neces- 
sary to the perfect type, may at least stretch out their hands 
toward the aids that may enable them to remedy the grav- 
est faults, remembering always, that with health as a foun- 
dation, common sense as an aid, and perseverance to inspire, 
the results will indeed be satisfactory. 

When it has been possible to know of these facts in 
youth, so much the better. If not there is still hope, for the 
clever woman realizes that as she grows older she improves 
mentally. Ripened by experience, at no time is her intel- 



INTRODUCTION. vii 

lect more powerful, her wit keener, nor her judgment better 
than after she has passed the half century mark. 

Physiological development has enabled her to maintain 
the erect carriage, full chest and well proportioned figure 
of her youth, and she now sees as never before the impor- 
tance of the daily work, which, properly employed, will ban- 
ish the lines traced by the gathering years, prevent the wast- 
ing of the tissues and preserve the contour and firm tex- 
ture of the skin. 

The power of beauty is universally acknowledged. In 
all countries, in all ages and by all types of men, poets and 
warriors, artists and statesmen, susceptible striplings and 
phlegmatic business men, alike testify to the potent influence 
of this wonderful gift. 

It has been perhaps due to a realization of this fact that 
so many women have despaired, for after beholding the 
loveliness of others they who were but meagerly endowed 
with charms so lavishly bestowed upon more fortunate 
rivals felt that it was useless to persevere in work which 
could but make them less repulsive. To women of this 
type the certainty of improvement so great as to be well 
worth while has been a wonderful stimulus. And as a con- 
sequence the shrinking, self conscious and unattractive wom- 
an of thirty-five has often been developed into a social 
power before she has reached forty. The mere realization of 
her success so fills her with quiet joy that she unconscious- 
ly inspires her associates with an ambition to follow her 
example. 

A wise man once remarked "that to satisfy others one 
must be self-satisfied." This statement is indeed true and 
should stimulate the negligent into an effort to make the 
most of opportunities. The young girl should labor unceas- 
ingly to obtain the degree of perfection to which her very 



viii INTRODUCTION. 

youth entitles her. The woman of thirty may have se- 
cured her knowledge later in life, but still not too late to 
know that by sufficient care she may postpone the appear- 
ance of age for years to come. Older women must be con- 
vinced that much may be done toward repairing the damages 
wrought by neglect and carelessness, and all women should 
be persuaded that it is quite as essential to devote a certain 
amount of time each day to personal attention as it is to 
waste hours in foolish gossip, embroidering useless doilies, 
or in caring for expensive ornaments. The chief ornament 
of any home is the woman who presides over it, and she 
should be ambitious enough to realize the importance of 
work that will aid her to preserve the charms she has, as 
well as to assist her in acquiring those she may be without. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

CHAPTER I.— The Appearance of the Normal Skin 15 

The necessity for the use of pure soaps and oils. The ef- 
fect of irritation upon the scarf skin. Experiment in skin 
grafting. 

CHAPTER II.— Why Creams are Necessary 20 

Value as a protecting agent. Use of ointments among the 
ancients. Requirements of the skin. The folly of using any 
substitute in place of a pure oil. 

CHAPTER III.— The Manufacture of Creams 24 

Necessary equipment. How to recognize the pure oils. 
Recipes for making creams. 

CHAPTER IV.— Wrinkles, and What Causes Them 34 

The presence of habit lines explained. Cosmetics and 
mechanical appliances to be used with discretion. Best manner 
of preventing lines of age. 

CHAPTER V.— Why we Massage 39 

The ideal masseuse, and her method of work. How often 
massage should be taken. How to prepare the face for massage. 
Value of cleansing the skin thoroughly. How to massage. 

CHAPTER VI.— How to Massage 55 

Why there is one system of work. Manner of using the 
fingers. Length of treatments. Use of the water massage. Elec- 
tric vibratile and mallets as valuable adjuncts to the fingers. 
How to apply an astringent. 

CHAPTER VII.— Blackheads, Pimples and Milia 64 

Absolute assurance of success in most loathsome cases 
when proper precautions are taken. Cause of blackheads. How 
to use the comedone extractor. Method of opening pimples. 
Cleansing the cavities, and after treatment. Use of the negative 

needles to obstinate cases. 

ix 



x CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

CHAPTER VIII.— Diet and Directions for Home Work 

in Cure of Blackheads, Pimples, Etc 75 

Manner of treating oily skins. Use of green soap. Importance 
of proper diet, exercise and bathing. Importance of persistent 
efforts. How to proceed in removal of milia. Use of the gal- 
vanic current, followed by water massage in every case. 

CHAPTER IX.— Chloasma 82 

Application of powerful remedies for purpose of bleaching 
the skin a mistake. Value of mild treatments aided by electricity. 
Manner of treatment. Use of dioxide of hydrogen as a bleaching 
agent. 

CHAPTER X.— Oily, Stippled and Sallow Skins 88 

Advisability of thoroughly cleansing the skin of face and 
body daily. Suggestions as to diet. Use of mask for refining the 
skin. Best method of whitening muddy complexion. Value of 
massage in connection with the whitening process. 

CHAPTER XL— Scaly, Dry and Flabby Skins 92 

Precautions to be observed in use of water or soap for cleans- 
ing. Oil mixture for sensitive skins. Value of electricity in re- 
storing tone to flabby and withered skins. 

CHAPTER XII.— Freckles, Tan and Sunburn 96 

Removal of freckles and precautions to be observed in pro- 
tecting the tender skin. How to prevent tan. Ways of avoiding 
sunburn. Indolence or ignorance usually responsible for dis- 
comfort. 

CHAPTER XIII.— The Use of Powder 101 

A pure powder advisable as a protecting agent. Method of 
manufacturing. Recipes for bathing powder, face powder "and 
a liquid cosmetic. Manner of applying powder. 

CHAPTER XIV.— The Art of Bathing 106 

The educated bather and her favorite bath. Use of lotion 
for softening the bath water. Jelly of violets for preventing rough- 
ness of the skin. Sulphur, bran and electric baths and how to . 
take them. Strongly alkaline soap to be avoided. 

CHAPTER XV. — The Subject of Sterilizing Instru- 

\ii;nts 112 

Strength of solution used in sterilizing hands and finger 



CONTENTS. xi 

PAGE 

nails. Boiling process for instruments. Care to be observed in 
the use of cream. Demand for conscientious work in this re- 
spect. 

CHAPTER XVI— Use of Electricity 118 

Simple experiment by which current may be produced. The 
best battery for ordinary use. Number of cells usually neces- 
sary. How to prevent scars. Use of zinc ointment in allaying 
inflammation. Reappearance of hair. Treatment of eruptions 
when complicated with growth, etc. 

CHAPTER XVII.— The Removal of Superfluous Hair.. 134 

Directions for equipment. Position of patient. Use of neg- 
ative pole, and how to insert the needle. Length of time neces- 
sary for each treatment. Advisability of using the bulbous 
needle. Treatment of skin after use of electricity. 

CHAPTER XVIII. — The Treatment of Moles, Warts, 

NjEvi 143 

Precautions to be observed in the removal of bristly hair 
before attempting treatment of the mole. Necessity for observ- 
ing the appearance of the normal skin near portion worked upon. 
Number of treatments necessary and variation in different cases. 
Necessity for stronger current in treatment of warts. 

CHAPTER XIX.— Blanching the Skin, Discoloration, 

and Use of the Faradic Current 151 

Curing red noses. Galvanic current as used in restoring 
tone to the skin. Method of using needle in Acne Rosacea. 
Removal of discolorations. Experiments in cataphoresis. Rapid 
method of bleaching the skin. Use of Faradic current in 
massage. Value of massage roller and vibratile. Stimulating 
effect of the current as shown in use of neurotone. Beneficial 
results obtained in treatment of scalp by means of brush attached 
to Faradic current. 

CHAPTER XX.— Care of the Hands 161 

The ideal hand. Manner of washing the hands properly. 
Use of rose jelly. Keeping hands smooth. Red and swollen 
hands. Cosmetic mittens and whitening paste refining agents. 
Disguise for red hands. Instruments used in manicuring. Rec- 
ipes for polishing powder and bleaching lotion for nails. 



xii CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

CHAPTER XXL— How to Improve the Arms, Shoulders, 

Neck and Bust . . 175 

Value of exercise in developing arms. How to banish rough- 
ness of the skin of arms. How to bleach the hair. Use of the 
depilatory in obstinate cases. Massage and electric treatments. 
Developing neck and bust. 

CHAPTER XXII.— Mouth and Teeth 181 

Beautiful teeth as rare as perfect gems. Cosmetic defects of 
the mouth and how to treat them. Receding gums. How to 
improve them. Removal of incrustations or yellowish deposits 
upon the teeth. The best dentifrice and how to use it. Method 
of cleansing the teeth. 

CHAPTER XXIII — Care of the Feet 189 

Importance of selecting sensible footwear. Massage of the 
feet. Treatment of swollen joints. How to cure ingrown nails 
and corns. 

CHAPTER XXIV.— Care of the Hair 197 

Hair as the connecting link between vegetable and animal 
tissue. Cleansing of the scalp. Manner of shampooing. How 
to destroy vermin. 

CHAPTER XXV. Treatment of Scalp and Hair 203 

Massage of the scalp. Stimulating tonic. Electric treat- 
ments of much value in stopping the falling of the hair. 

CHAPTER XXVI.— The Treatment of Dandruff or 

Scurf 209 

Removal of crusts by means of application of ointments. 
Special shampoD for obstinate cases. Necessity for frequent 
shampoo until condition is remedied. Imperative need for 
earnest work. 

CHAPTER XXVII.— How to Dye and Bleach the Hair. . . 216 

Use of a hair dye cannot be permanent. Process of Dyeing. 
How to bleach the hair. How to brighten dull shades. Artificial 
appearance always imparted by bleached hair. 

CHAPTER XXVIII.— How to Grow Thin 222 

Rapid process of reduction almost invariably dangerous. 



CONTENTS. xiii 

PAGE 

Causes of obesity. Value of physical activity. Loss of vital 
capacity always found in obese conditions. Diet and directions 
for reduction of flesh. Table of weights. 

CHAPTER XXIX.— How to Become Plump 227 

Breathing exercises of much benefit. Necessity for proper 
amount of rest. Importance of overcoming undue nervousness. 
Diet, as advocated by best authorities. 

CHAPTER XXX.— Physiological Development 231 

Propriety of encouraging interest in this work among the 
middle aged. Experiment conducted by prominent educator 
and results. Wonderful benefits to be obtained by full breath- 
ing. Allowance of air necessary for each person. Bad effect 
caused by rapid violent breathing. Manner in which the busy 
women may secure best results from these exercises. A list of 
the most beneficial breathing exercises. 

CHAPTER XXXI.— Body Movements 242 

List of exercises suitable for the majority of cases. Strength- 
ening of muscles, arms, legs and back, especially considered. 
Symmetrical development easily obtained by sufficient work. 



FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. 



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7. 



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Figure 11. 
Figure 12. 
Figure 13. 
Figure 14. 
Figure 15. 
Figure 16. 
Figure 17. 
Figure 18. 
Figure 19. 
Figure 20. 
Figure 21. 
Figure 22. 
Figure 23. 
Figure 24. 
Figure 25. 
Figure 26. 
Figure 27. 
Figure 28. 
Figure 29. 



A Task before Retiring ; Frontispiece 

Banishing the Crow's Feet Page 33 

The Use of Parchment Strips ■ " 38 

Using the Water Massage " 40 

Erasing the Long Lines " 43 

Lines about the Eye " 46 

Massage— the Rotary Motion " 49 

Massage of the Eyelid " 52 

Massage of the Neck " 54 

Use of the Vibratile " 62 

Using the Comedone Extractor " 68 

Using the Hypodermic Syringe " 70 

A Smooth Skin after Skillful Work. " 72 

Removal of. Superfluous Hair " 133 

Removal of Mole " 142 

Using the Galvanic Current ......... " 150 

Massage with Use of the Faradic Current " 154 

Use of the Massage Roller " 156 

Use of the Faradone " 159 

Use of the File " 163 

Use of the Orange Wood Stick " 166 

Use of the Stick Polish " 169 

Use of the Buffer " 171 

Massage of the Foot " 190 

Massage of the Joint to Reduce Inflammation. " 193 

Bandaging Inflamed Joint " 195 

Use of Hair Brush Electrode " 204 

Scalp Massage— First Movement. " 207 

Scalp Massage — Second Movement " 212 



XIV 



CHAPTER I. 

THE APPEARANCE OF THE NORMAL SKIN. 

The perfect skin is soft, smooth with a transparent lus- 
ter, elastic and moist, with a coloring that differs greatly 
in individuals. In some instances it is like pale ivory, in 
others a pearly white, often a pinkish cast may be found, 
while certain nationalities possess the peculiar brownish, yel- 
low tints found in the Spanish and Italians. 

The exposed portions of the skin are darker than those 
protected by the clothing, and on close examination the sur- 
face will not appear smooth, but covered with the tiniest 
and finest of lines, some parallel, others intersecting, while 
in addition a growth of soft, almost colorless hair called 
lanugo is seen to be abundant. It is due to this peculiarity 
of structure, with its tiny furrows and elevations and soft 
down of the "wool hair,'' that the delicacy of appearance 
exists. 

The skin is about one-tenth of an inch thick, and is pro- 
vided with a natural oil, exuding imperceptibly under or- 
dinary conditions, and keeping the flesh soft and pliable. 
Perspiration is excreted by the glands and carbonic acid 
gas is eliminated, while oxygen is absorbed. Thus, liquids, 
ointments and substances intended to correct the various de- 
fects may also be forced into the skin, and when rapid re- 
sults are required the necessity exists for frequent bathing 
in connection with proper manipulation. 

The epidermis, or cuticle, is the outer layer of the skin 
and is exposed to the air on one side and attached to the 
corium on the other. This exposure to the air naturally keeps 
the outer layer in a drier condition and it is due to this fact 



16 THE SKIN. 

as well as to the application of friction that the constant 
casting off of scales occurs. Ordinarily this process is 
barely perceptible, but when the secretion of oil is not suffi- 
cient to keep the skin moist, this scaliness becomes extreme- 
ly objectionable and great flakes peel off continually, caus- 
ing the face to look rough and coarse. Under the influence 
of an irritant or where there is made an attempt to bleach 
the skin, the same excessive flaking occurs until the appli- 
cations cease. When the condition is extremely obstinate 
constant inunctions of oil are necessary in order to keep the 
skin in even a presentable condition. Hence the value of 
the flesh or skin foods in cases of this description, as the 
best of them are made from the finest oils and are readily 
absorbed by the skin. 

The mucous or malpighian layer is the deepest of the 
outer layers of the skin and is situated directly above the 
corium. Cones descending from this mucous layer are 
met by the papillae extending up so that all the hollow 
spaces are filled in. It is in this layer that the pigment cells 
are found and it is in a desire to affect this supply of color- 
ing matter that the various ointments for whitening the 
skin are applied and rubbed in vigorously. The irritation 
of the friction loosens the scarf skin and hastens the peeling, 
while the manipulation assists in the process of absorption. 
Should the irritation be prolonged greatly there is danger 
of causing a greater deposit of pigment in this spot, instead 
of removing the old discoloration. Carelessness in this 
respect has ruined many faces, for the application of some 
of the powerful bleaches has produced deep cauterizations 
and thus left a permanent disfigurement, impossible to re- 
move. No single treatment of the skin should ever be con- 
tinued after redness or burning has been produced. The 
presence of this coloring matter in the mucous layer has 



THE SKIN. 17 

been made the subject of a curious experiment in which a bit 
of skin from a white man was grafted upon a negro, with 
the result that after a time the grafted portion became as 
black as the rest of the body. 

The corium, or "true skin/' is made up of a dense, reg- 
ular structure of elastic fibers. Under this is a layer of con- 
nective tissue and here as well as in the cellular structure 
is found the fatty tissue. The papillae projecting from 
this corium into the mucous layer each contain either the 
daintiest capillary network or nervous apparatus. The 
healthy hue of the skin is thus produced and maintained by 
the tiny blood vessels, while when cold or under the in- 
fluence of a great shock or terror, the nerve filaments pro- 
duce the appearance known as "goose flesh." 

The layers of the skin as named are the most important, 
though of course physiologists divide and sub-divide them 
still farther and explain many details which will neither 
interest nor assist the ordinary student, so no mention is 
made here of the distinctions drawn by some of these au- 
thors. By studying the connection of the various layers it 
will be seen that the outer layer should be nourished by the 
proper action of the numerous glands in the lower sections, 
while the coloring on the cheeks and face naturally comes 
from the tiny blood capillaries projecting from the corium 
into the mucous layer by means of the papillae. 

The soft luster of the perfect skin is due to the proper 
actions of the numerous glands as well as the presence 
of sufficient subcutaneous fat. Hence any functional or lo- 
cal disturbance will naturally affect the coloring and appear- 
ance. In young and healthy people this luster is more pro- 
nounced than in those who are older. In fact, one of the 
first signs of approaching age is found in the disappearance 
of this peculiar glow and a manifestation of a dry and illy- 



18 THE SKIN. 

nourished condition of the skin as shown by numerous folds, 
at first very shallow, and afterward deepening into veritable 
furrows that become rapidly more pronounced unless prop- 
erly treated. 

The normal skin should possess none of these lines un- 
til the subject is so far advanced in years that age shows 
plainly. To the observant student it is apparent that it is 
more sensible to attempt to correct the various faults by a 
judicious use of external applications as combined with 
the necessary internal treatment; than it is to think that a 
few doses of medicine by way of the mouth into the poor, 
overworked stomach, can possibly reach every portion of 
the body and correct every evil that exists. 

There is a most peculiar impression among many peo- 
ple that all skins are normal and that the only exceptions 
to this rule are found in instances where cosmetics have 
been applied. In reality, there are just as many exceptions 
to the standard of health in skins as there are in bodies, and 
it is quite as absurd to say that no skin needs treatment as it 
is to say that no human being will ever need medical treat- 
ment. 

The fact that the skin needs constant care to keep it in 
good condition can nowhere be better illustrated than in 
mentioning the preservation of the flesh of the neck and 
arms in almost every woman, whether any care has been 
bestowed upon them or not. The constant friction from 
the clothing keeps the pores freed from obstructions, while 
protection from the sun and air preserves the whiteness. The 
face, on the other hand, exposed to all changes of tempera- 
ture, biting winds and burning sun, is naturally affected 
greatly by this exposure. Discretion in caring for it will 
to a great extent, remedy the dangers of necessary ex- 
posure, and keep the complexion in good condition. 



THE SKIN. 19 

It is hoped that these lines may be convincing enough to 
prove to the majority of women the necessity of constant 
care to keep the pores freed from obstructions, the skin from 
unnecessary defects, and the face free from disfiguring 
wrinkles and the appearance of premature old age. 

The treatments advocated in this book have been prac- 
ticed for many years with absolute success. The articles are 
mentioned as used so that the beginner may know exactly 
how to proceed, as vague directions but confuse the stu- 
dent. The successful woman in business must depend upon 
unguents of which she knows, if she expects to secure good 
results. Emphasis has been placed upon the importance 
of thoroughly cleansing the skin before work of any kind 
is attempted, because the pores must be in a condition to 
receive the material applied if the results are to be satis- 
factory. 



CHAPTER II. 

WHY CREAMS ARE NECESSARY. 

When any oil or combination of oils as found in creams 
is applied to the skin it becomes soft, pliable and smooth. 
It is readily absorbed into the superficial layer of the epi- 
dermis and soon produces a clear appearance besides pre- 
venting undue tension and removing any roughness that 
exists. Methodical applications of ointments further their 
absorption into the skin, and even cause them to appear in 
the blood by way of the lymph vessels. Increase in weight, 
the pleasing roundness and improved appearance are thus 
explained as natural consequences after proper work. 

As a protecting agent, a good cream is unexcelled, for it 
forms a water-tight covering that serves to diminish the 
moisture given off" by the skin. Sebaceous secretions, fatty 
acids of the sweat, and dirt may also be removed by an 
application of oils, while the use of a thin coating is always 
advisable in order to cause powder to adhere well. The 
actual necessity for the use of creams can nowhere be bet- 
ter illustrated than during a trip through the Yellowstone 
Park. The only people who enjoy this outing are they who 
realize that their safety and comfort consists in cleansing the 
skin with a cream made for the purpose and then applying 
more before dusting on the powder. Water and soap 
should not be applied until the alkaline water has 
given place to the ordinary variety. Even then, many ex- 
perienced travelers hesitate about using much of it and 
instead, stand loyally by their creams and powder. In fact, 
there are skins so peculiarly sensitive that no water can be 
used, and instead the surface must be cleansed with oil of 
some kind. 



THE SKIN. 21 

The use of seductive ointments and perfumed oils was so 
very general among the ancients that there was a different 
mixture advocated for every portion of the body, and as 
a basis for many of them the fat of an animal was sup- 
posed to be necessary. For instance, the pomade used for 
the feet and legs was invariably made from the animal who 
possessed most strength and speed. That for the arms and 
chest was termed Phoenician, while the most costly and deli- 
cate oils were reserved for use on the face, neck and hands. 
There is no doubt that the Greek and Roman women owed 
the preservation of their beauty to this practice of anointing 
after the bath, and it may well be urged on the women of 
the present century as a very necessary process in the art 
of beautifying, as well as a powerful aid in keeping the 
skin of the body and face in an excellent condition. 

The use of a good unguent or skin food should be rec- 
ommended for the purpose of massaging not only the face 
but also the entire body at least once a week after the 
vapor or steam bath. A good cream is one that may be 
readily absorbed by the pores, leaving the skin soft and pli- 
able, but with no appearance of oiliness. Ointments are 
made the means of treating many of the skin affections, as, 
they may be absorbed so easily into the skin, that in this 
manner much may be done by way of external application. 
In any treatments of this kind, it is very necessary that the 
pores be kept absolutely free from obstruction, so that the 
oils may be able to penetrate readily. 

The knowledge of just what treatment each skin needs 
is one possessed only by the experienced worker. In many 
instances there must be a combination of remedies skillfully 
applied to counteract the various peculiar conditions, and in 
all cases much perseverance must exist. Many are troubled 
with abnormally dry skins and with freckles also. The 



22 . THE SKIN. 

treatment in this instance must be so directed that the de- 
mand for a nourishing oil may be supplied, while also a 
penetrating remedy may be used in order to affect the ab- 
normal amount of coloring matter in the mucous layer of 
the skin. In the work of treating blackheads, in which 
there is an excessive secretion of oil, there must be oil used 
to penetrate the glands and stimulate them, and the de- 
mand for an astringent is also to be considered. So the 
peculiarities of each individual must be studied and treated. 
In every instance the use of oils as combined in creams is 
a necessity. 

Although all intelligent workers realize and can explain 
to their patrons the reasons for applying ointments, there 
are many ignorant though positive souls who attempt to 
discredit the efficiency of work of this kind by asserting that 
the use of creams will make the hair grow. If this were 
only true, one can well imagine the joy that would be 
speedily felt in the ranks of bald-headed rnen. The fortu- 
nate manufacturer of such a cream would immediately be- 
come famous as well as rich and would be regarded as a 
public benefactor. Unfortunately at the risk of disappoint- 
ing many, one must be truthful enough to assert that no 
ordinary cream will cause the growth of hair. 

All skins are covered with the soft wool hair or lanugo. 
In many instances as people grow older this growth be- 
comes more apparent. Close observation in hundreds of 
cases has failed to reveal any connection between the ap- 
pearance of hair and the use of creams. Very frequently, 
in fact in nearly all cases, this abnormal growth appears 
also on the arms and legs showing that it is not confined to 
the face alone. Fully one-half of the worst cases the author 
has ever seen were found to be guiltless of ever applying 
any kind of a creme to the skin, while the remainder de- 



THE SKIN. 23 

clared that they were convinced that there would be no con- 
nection between the use of a good creme and the growth of 
hair. 

There has been an effort during the past few years on 
the part of unscrupulous or ignorant manufacturers to pro- 
duce articles that shall take the place of substances con- 
taining oil, and' many high-priced and strongly scented con- 
coctions have been advertised for the purpose of massage, 
having for their chief recommendation the absence of any- 
thing like an oil or fat. This, in itself, should be enough to 
keep any intelligent woman from an attempt to use the 
articles, for every student of physiology should know from 
the nature of the skin that it must have oil of some kind 
applied if it is to be kept in good condition. That much- 
used term, "skin food," is really appropriate for how many 
women who have been withered and faded and haggard, 
years before their time, have had the skin so fed and nour- 
ished that they have looked years younger after only a week 
or so of proper treatment. 



CHAPTER III. 

THE MANUFACTURE OF CREAMS. 

The work of combining the various oils into odorous 
mixtures is one that appeals naturally to any woman. She 
who has not this inclination to don a big apron, and stir 
the foamy substance that is to make her far more attractive, 
must have either a heart of adamant or be utterly lacking in 
either imagination or sentiment. Few women ever grow 
so old or become so dead to their sense of beauty that they 
can honestly deny all interest in work of this character. 
And, as we all love to see flowers instead of weeds, well- 
kept houses rather than ruined huts, so, too, a well-groomed 
woman with a complexion free from defects will ever be 
more attractive than one who is lined and yellow from 
sheer neglect. 

The necessity for the use of creams has been so well 
established that it is useless to add more on the subject, 
but the process of making them may well need a few lines of 
explanation. This fascinating art is not without its draw- 
backs, chief among which is the very serious one that con- 
fronts most amateurs— lack of sufficient knowledge. Then, 
too, the work is not a cheap amusement, for by the time the 
various utensils necessary have been collected, and the nu- 
merous ingredients have been purchased, the outlay is far in 
excess of the cost of the purchased articles, while in addi- 
tion there is always a possibility that the results may not be 
good. Of course, it is absolutely hopeless for any one un- 
trained in the work to attempt the composition of any of 
the more complicated recipes, as both the equipment and the 
materials would involve too great an outlay, to say nothing 
of the necessity for experience in the work. Hence, in the 



THE SKIN. 25 

recipes that follow care has been- taken to explain carefully 
each step, as well as to select only those that can be prepared 
with a comparatively certain degree of success. 

A good almond oil is the basis of nearly every fine prep- 
aration. Of course every druggist keeps this oil, but every 
druggist does not keep the finest variety, as there is not 
enough demand to warrant it. Thus the woman who 
wishes to do good work will be under the necessity of pur- 
chasing her oil in the twenty-five-pound cans direct from 
the importers or large drug houses if she wishes to be sure 
of the quality. Creams made from any nut oils will be- 
come rancid under the influence of intense or prolonged 
heat, and creams made from inferior qualities of oils be- 
come rancid almost immediately, while in addition to this 
unpleasant property they also irritate the skin greatly. All 
creams are best made in small quantities and should, when 
not in use, be kept in a cool place with the covers of the 
jar well fastened down. 

In purchasing ingredients care should be exercised to 
see that they are the best obtainable. A pure almond oil 
will be of a delicate straw color, clear as crystal, and with 
none of that strong odor so invariably associated with the 
ordinary oils. Lanolin is best purchased in pound packages 
after it has been subjected to the refining process. It has 
always a peculiar, sticky appearance and possesses a mildly 
distasteful and extremely distinctive scent. The finest wax 
is nearly white, not yellow, and comes in small round cakes, 
while the best spermaceti is usually found in long, white 
glistening cakes. Cocoanut oil when pure and fresh looks 
like a ball of snow pudding, though of course the strong 
odor is never absent. Although other oils are used, the 
three mentioned are those most generally employed and also 
most beneficial in effect. 



26 THE SKIN. 

Before attempting to make any creams an investment 
in an enameled water boiler is absolutely necessary. This 
should be used for nothing but work of this kind, and with it 
should come one or two long-handled granite spoons for 
stirring the oils. In making the cream, care should be ob- 
served in regard to the thorough melting of the white wax, 
spermaceti and other ingredients before the rose water is 
added. In order to have the mixtures appear the best, they 
should be well beaten from the time they are taken from the 
fire until they are cool enough to perfume. 

Cream Celeste is a very good skin food when made of 
the finest materials. It is prepared as follows : 



Almond oil . . 8 % 

Spermaceti 25 

White wax 1 5 

Honey 15 

Rose water 2 § 

Borax „ . . 1 3 

Rose geranium oil — sufficient to perfume. The oils may 
be melted together, and then the honey added and stirred in 
well. Last of all, the rose water, in which has been dis- 
solved one dram of borax. Enough of the oil of rose 
geranium to thoroughly perfume the mixture may be used 
as soon as it is cool. 

Almonda is the friend of the freckled maiden, though 
the action is so mild that she becomes a little discouraged 
at times, for it will not remake her instantly. Still she must 
reflect that no one inexperienced in the art should be in- 
trusted with the use of chemicals that may be potent alike 
for good or evil, depending upon the discretion with which 
they are used. This creme should be applied at night after 
washing the face with soap and warm water. It is not so 



THE SKIN. 27 

penetrating as the Whitening Creme spoken of elsewhere, 
but has been used with very good results : 

Almond oil 6 § 

Lanolin i § 

Spermaceti . 2 g 

Cocoanut oil - , I § 

White wax I § 

White precipitate I 3 

Oil bitter almonds I 3 

Melt the oils together and then add the white precipi- 
tate first, mixed with one-half ounce of alcohol. Perfume 
with oil of bitter almonds. 

Delight of the Harem sounds quite oriental enough 
to enable one to conjure up a vision of some dusky beauty, 
carefully applying this seductive ointment in the hope of 
making her warm olive skin look a deadly white. This 
cream is really used for whitening the skin of the neck and 
arms temporarily, and is especially useful for the purpose 
of disguising a bad skin in the evening. It should not be 
used on the face, as it is too much of an astringent. 

Almond oil 6 § 

White wax I § 

Spermaceti i § 

Paraffin . I § 

Oxide of zinc -. I 3 

Orange blossom oil 20 drops 

In this preparation the oxide of zinc should be well 
sifted through bolting cloth jefore mixing in with the oils, 
as otherwise the cream may appear a little gritty. The 
effect of applying this ointment is most ^leasing and it is 
doubtless to some preparation of this kind that the profes- 
sional beauties owe their snowy, arms and shoulders. 

The recipes which follow for the use of creams made 



28 THE SKIN. 

of strawberry and of cucumber juice are said to be highly 
beneficial. The chief objection to the use of these articles 
is the fact that they require more time in making and are, 
of course, impossible to obtain at certain seasons of the 
year, for it is said that no hot-house vegetable will do for 
this purpose. 

Strawberry Cream is much used to remove tan or dis- 
colorations that are not too pronounced. It is made in this 
manner : 

Almond oil 8 § 

Strawberries i qt 

Allow the strawberries to simmer in the hot oil for three 
or four hours, until the greater part of the juice is extracted, 
and then strain through a cheesecloth bag without using any 
pressure. Proceed as follows, using for six ounces of the 
strained liquid these ingredients : 

Strained liquid 6 g 

Lanolin . . 2 g 

Spermaceti 2 g 

White wax I g 

Tinct. benzoin I 3 

Bals. Peru i 3 

Oil Neroli I 3 

Add the balsam of Peru to the hot oils and then remove 
from the fire and stir, beating in the tincture of benzoin 
and adding perfumed oil last of all. 

Strawberry Paste. — In connection with the use of this 
cream the strawberry paste has also been used to some ex- 
tent. It is easily made and may better be given here, as the 
two are so closely associated: 

Fresh strawberries I lb 

Gum tragacanth ^4 g 

Orris powder I g 



THE SKIN. 29 



Almond meal I § 

Juice of lemons 3 § 

Rose water J^> pt 



Dissolve the tragacanth in sufficient rose water to form 
a mucilage, and then crush the strawberries and mix before 
straining. Add the orris root and almond meal and last of 
all the lemon juice. Apply in the form of a thin paste at 
night and remove in the morning, using the cream imme- 
diately afterward and dusting on powder before exposure 
to the air. 

Cucumber Cream is prepared in much the same way, 
using the same amount of oil and cutting in it as soon as 
warm three good-sized cucumbers which have not been 
peeled : 

Almond oil 8 § 

Cucumbers 3 

Heat well for three or four hours and then strain through 
cheesecloth, adding the following ingredients : 

Strained liquid 6 § 

Paraffin 2 § 

White wax 1 § 

Cocoanut oil 2 § 

Oil of Neroli 1 3 

A cream that may be used for eruptions that occur so 
frequently during the summer months is prepared in this 
manner : 

Lanolin 2 § 

Cocoanut oil 4 § 

Paraffin 1 1 

White wax 1 § 

Carbolic acid 1 3 

In this cream the oils are melted and the acid added 
when the mixture is cool. It is best if applied after washing 



30 THE SKIN. 

the face well with a mild soap and warm water, just before 
retiring at night. 

Another cream most popular with those who suffer from 
prickly heat or the tiny red pimple that appears on the arms 
and shoulders is made by using witch hazel instead of rose 
water, the other ingredients being practically the same as 
those used in any cold cream : 



Witch hazel 35 

Lanolin , 25 

Almond oil 45 

White wax 15 

Spermaceti 2 § 



Skin Food. — For those who find glycerine agrees with 
the skin the following recipe for a skin food will be most 
acceptable, as in this formula it appears to good advantage : 

Sweet almond oil 45 

Spermaceti 25 

White wax 1 g 

Glycerine 2 g 

Powdered borax 1 3 

Rose water 2 § 

Oil rose . 10 drops 

Melt the oils together and dissolve the borax in the rose 
water and glycerine. Add the other ingredients, beating 
constantly until cold. Perfume last of all. 

The list of these pleasing and useful cosmetics is indeed 
a long one and might be continued indefinitely were it not 
decidedly impracticable for the ordinary amateur to indulge 
in the pleasing though expensive pastime of making creams. 
Why it is, no one knows, but it is surely a fact that while 
women delight to make these cosmetics, they seldom have 
any faith in the efficacy of anything they can prepare, and 



THE SKIN. 31 

it is probably due to this as much as anything else that so 
few women in business now manufacture their own cos- 
metics. 

Buying any of the ingredients in a small way is ex- 
tremely expensive, while the work of concocting the various 
articles requires much time as well as a special training. 
No one preparation can ever be used successfully for all 
defects, and it requires much knowledge to enable a masseuse 
to judge the requirements of each skin, as well as to know 
the best method of treating it. All work to be beneficial 
must be performed methodically and intelligently, and this 
applies especially to the use of the various remedies indica- 
ted in treatment of the ordinary skin affections. 

The operator must remember that much besides the pos- 
session of a good formula is necessary if she is to make cos- 
metics that are to be really beneficial. She may be mix- 
ing up ingredients that are really harmful if she does not 
know enough to be able to tell when an article is pure , or, 
when it has been adulterated. She must not only know 
chemistry but she must also know the physiology of the 
skin if she hopes to do really good work in manufacturing, 
and unless she can afford to obtain the necessary apparatus 
she is foolish to attempt any work in this line. 

Xo greater mistake can be made by an operator than 
to tell her patients she knows a creme is pure because she 
made it herself. The cities are filled with women who have 
never done anything to learn the correct method of mak- 
ing cremes but who nevertheless insist upon making the 
attempt to do good work in this line. 

To be efficacious, a creme must not only be properly 
made but also properly applied,, and not until all these con- 
ditions are understood can any one hope to do successful 



32 THE SKIN. 

work. In fact, although many people dabble in mixing 
things just because of the enjoyment the work affords, only 
a few reliable operators try to make their own cremes, but 
instead, purchase them of rehable firms, realizing that thus 
they are certain of doing much toward instilling into the 
minds of their patients a more implicit confidence in their 
method of treatment. 




Figure 2. 
Banishing the Crow's Feet. 



CHAPTER IV. 

WRINKLES AND WHAT CAUSES THEM. 

Although the word wrinkle is unavoidably associated 
with the thought of age, in reality many wrinkles have little 
connection with the age of the person and are caused by the 
carelessness of the subject rather than by the weight of 
years. 

Habit lines form early in life, and among those com- 
monly observed, some of which serve to alter the most 
winning face into one far more prepossessing, may be men- 
tioned the creases caused by elevating the eyebrows con- 
stantly while conversing. Lines of this kind are frequently 
deep and obstinate before the age of twenty has been 
reached. The straight line found running from the root of 
the nose up into the forehead, giving to the face a surly, 
disagreeable expression, is made by scowling or squinting 
when reading, or inspecting any object that requires close 
scrutiny. The appearance of these lines in exactly the same 
portions of the face in every member of a family from one 
generation to another undoubtedly points to the influence 
of heredity. It also indicates the existence of gross care- 
lessness, for by a little effort toward muscle control, it will 
soon be found that any of these habits may be cured, even 
if every member of the family for the past seven hundred 
years has insisted upon having them. 

Cosmetics containing harmful metallic astringents may 
also be mentioned as a cause of the appearance of deep 
repulsive lines, occurring particularly in the cheeks, and 
generally very difficult to remove. Wrinkles of this kind 
are especially apt to cause an appearance of extreme age, 



THE SKIN. 35 

even though the subject is a young person, for not only are 
the folds deep, but the surrounding flesh, as well, seems 
to be dry and lifeless. 

Ill health is another factor in causing lines to appear, 
and in most instances of this kind the skin seems poorly 
nourished as well, while the lines appear by the dozen, cross- 
ing and recrossing the flesh until the face looks like a bit 
of patchwork. When the skin has the feeling of parch- 
ment, the lines are apt to be particularly hard to erase, and 
constant inunctions of oil are necessary to make the com- 
plexion even presentable. 

Mechanical appliances are responsible for much trouble, 
and the use of the face steamer may be mentioned as being 
particularly harmful. The intense heat extracts the fat 
from the tissues and in time produces a flabby condition of 
the skin. The pores become large and the wrinkles form 
quickly. Another potent cause of trouble in this respect, 
may be found in the small glass arrangement provided with 
a rubber bulb. By placing the glass upon the face and 
compressing the bulb, the flesh is drawn into the glass by 
suction. True, the blood rushes to the surface, and the skin 
becomes uniformly pink, but the mischief comes from the 
undue stretching that assists in producing fresh lines in- 
stead of removing the old ones. 

Strongly alkaline washes and bleaches, undiluted alcohol, 
too much benzoin, and other similar preparations have an 
intensely drying effect upon the skin, and make much mis- 
chief by affecting the supply of oil necessary to a healthful 
condition. 

Another active factor in assisting wrinkles to appear 
may be found in nearly every bedroom. If the light streams 
directly from the windows toward the bed in such a man- 
ner that the sun's rays can penetrate through the crevices 



36 THE SKIN. 

of the shades or around the edges, falling directly upon the 
face, the lines about the eyes and forehead will be found 
unusually deep. This is due to the unconscious contraction 
of the brows, causing the wrinkles to multiply rapidly, and 
may easily be avoided by either changing the position of the 
bed, hanging heavy curtains over the windows, or by using' 
the foot of the bed in place of the head so that the sleeper 
will not face the light. 

Lines of age are those that will come to every face in 
the course of time, for no power has been found as yet that 
is of avail in persuading Time to move less rapidly. The 
appearance of the unwelcome guests that mark the gather- 
ing years can therefore be treated only as a matter of course, 
at the same time making an effort to correct any faulty 
condition of the skin that may aid them in obtaining a 
stronger hold. Patient labor will do wonders toward making 
the traces less apparent, and if the skin is skillfully 
cared for, lines may not appear for many years. Of course, 
no face could be interesting without traces of expression, 
and the woman of a happy disposition who continually 
smiles whether at trouble or joy will invariably have a face 
that will indicate this tendency, while the woman who is a 
victim of melancholia and allows her mood to govern her 
life will just as positively exhibit to the world lines that 
betray her weakness. So the observant student who has 
cultivated the habit of studying human nature will be able to 
tell much of a woman's life by the appearance of her face, 
unless she has trained herself into exhibiting no emotion 
at any time. 

Wrinkles that form later in life and that so clearly dis- 
close these secrets are caused by the loosening of the con- 
nections of the skin, the disappearance of the subcutaneous 
fat, and the connective tissue, and the flattening of the tiny 



THE SKIN. 37 

papillae. Hence the only method that will retard this proc- 
ess is that which consists in gently but thoroughly cleansing 
the skin in such a manner that the pores may be thor- 
oughly opened and the oil necessary to the nourishment of 
the tissues may be readily absorbed. This process of absorp- 
tion must be assisted by manipulation or friction conducted 
by means of the finger massage. The circulation should be 
brought into action by exercise and by the use of electricity 
when necessary. The application of creams and nourish- 
ing foods should be made at frequent intervals in a system- 
atic manner in order to replace the constant waste, while 
baths and correct massage will so tone and strengthen the 
muscles that the skin will respond readily to the work indi- 
cated. In the treatment of wrinkles emphasis should ever 
be placed on the use of gentle rather than forcible efforts 
to remove them, and only the most scientific method should 
be employed in this work. By following instructions and 
observing the directions indicated in the illustrations the 
work may be done most successfully. 




Figure 3. 
Use of Parchment Strips. 



CHAPTER V. 

WHY WE MASSAGE. 

Massage is now fully recognized as an important factor 
in the treatment of many skin affections. It is not only em- 
ployed to retard the appearance of age, but is also valuable 
as an assistant in promoting the absorption of the various 
ointments used in the many skin affections. In fact, so great 
has been the progress of information regarding the best 
methods of treating the skin that one rarely sees an "old 
woman" now. Judging from the presence of children, and 
grandchildren, a woman will be known to have passed a 
certain age, but aside from this actual knowledge, her ap- 
pearance will positively give no suggestion of her real years. 

In reality massage bears to the face the same relations 
that careful cleansing does to the gowns that simply must 
last a certain length of time. Every woman knows that 
attention of this kind is necessary if she would keep her 
wardrobe in good condition, and in time all women will be 
convinced that they owe themselves at least as much atten- 
tion as they bestow upon their clothing. 

Although very excellent results are attained by the 
trained masseuse, still there is much to be said in favor of 
the home work, for by patient application of the principles 
of- massage, any ambitious woman can succeed in keeping 
her face entirely free from those dreaded heralds of age — 
wrinkles. There is no doubt that the woman who is will- 
ing to give ten or fifteen minutes each day to this work, 
can practically clear her face from any signs of creases or 
lines. 

Of course, there is much of advantage in being able 




Figure 4. 
Using the Water Massage. 



THE SKIN. 41 

to obtain treatment from those who have every appliance at 
hand to aid in the work, and in addition there is that sooth- 
ing sensation of absolute rest so gratifying to the nervous 
soul who submits herself to the care of the professional. 
However, when it is not possible to do this, there is great 
comfort in the thought of w T hat may be accomplished by 
dint of will and perseverance. When circumstances per- 
mit, the massage treatments may be taken twice a week 
with great benefit, and the systematic work continued at 
home just the same. If one has spent a restless night, and 
the morning shows signs of this wakefulness, a little cold 
water dashed over the skin and followed by a brisk mas- 
sage for but two or three minutes will freshen the com- 
plexion and, in fact, invigorate the entire system, as well 
as do much service in the way of routing the enemy. 

A skin food or creme is always used in connection with 
the massage treatment, not only because the materials will 
be absorbed into the skin, but also to aid the fingers in the 
work, as otherwise the skin would become red and irrita- 
ted by the constant friction. In this climate, with its varia- 
tions of heat and cold, every woman who wishes to appear 
well must positively pin her faith to the use of prepara- 
tions of this kind. Nature may have intended all people 
to have beautiful complexions, but she also planned at the 
same time many other things, and as lives are lived with- 
out any reference to her suggestions excepting to com- 
plain because she has not done more, it is rather foolish to 
blame her for all the troubles that most of us possess. 

The country maid is often quoted as an example of 
health and beauty, but alas ! her comeliness is not permanent, 
and at thirty the buxom lass has lost her roses and most of 
her teeth. The cheeks are hollow, the forehead lined. 
Streaks of brown invade the tan and make the complexion 



42 THE SKIN. 

hopeless, while round shoulders aid to make her look every 
day of fifty. The worst of the matter is, she feels it, too, 
and is assured that the best years of her life have passed, 
while her city sister of the same age blooms' out like a 
rose, feeling that life is just commencing to be of the most 
interest. 

Physiologists tell us that the majority of people are not 
perfectly developed until they have passed twenty-eight 
years. Some of the muscles are only then perfectly capable 
of doing the w r ork required of them. If this is true, the 
period of maturity may well be advanced another ten years 
and fifty should find a woman at her best. The majority 
of intelligent women are at their best at this age, but some 
of them who have not progressed so fapidly still feel du- 
bious of the propriety of making an effort to appear youth- 
ful and look forward with dread to an inefficient and unen- 
joyable old age. 

However, each day brings more recruits to the ranks of 
the hopeful, and as information becomes disseminated widely 
more women will see in the gathering years the time when 
perfected mentally, and in good condition physically, they 
can really accomplish great things. 

Massage is naturally the one great factor in producing 
the best results in work of this kind, and of all forms of 
massage, nothing can give the benefit that the manipulations 
of the finger-tips bestow. Many devices have been invented 
and advocated. Many are excellent when combined with 
the priginal form, but all must be considered subservient to 
the soft yet forcible touch bestowed by the fingers of the 
good masseuse. 

The cleansing process advocated as a necessary part of 
every treatment is based upon the requirements of the skin. 
The use of tiny mallets and a small roller are indeed valu- 




Figure 5. 
Erasing the Long Lines, 



44 THE SKIN. 

able as adjuncts to the best work, but cannot be regarded 
in any other light. All work must emphatically be well 
performed if the results are to be good. 

HOW TO PREPARE THE FACE FOR MASSAGE. 

Many operators apply hot towels to the face before 
attempting any manipulation. Others alternate the hot 
towels by the use of the massage, but those who wish to 
do the best work will use the following method, as it is 
the only one that keeps the flesh firm and free from fur- 
rows. Intensely hot applications in any form are most 
injurious and make the flesh so tender that even the lightest 
movements are apt to bruise the skin and injure the deeper 
tissues, besides ultimately causing the flesh to become flabby. 

First of all, before utilizing the water massage, the skin 
must be well coated with a creme sufficiently penetrating 
to reach into the pores. The ordinary massage creme or 
skin food is altogether too heavy for this purpose, and 
hence the article especially planned for this work should 
always be used if the best results are to be obtained. The 
lettuce creme spreads easily and has a wonderfully quick 
effect. The majority of operators apply the creme before 
filling the bag with water and getting the instruments ready. 
By the time everything is in working order the creme 
may be removed from the face by means of bits of soft cloth 
or cotton, leaving just enough oil to facilitate the move- 
ment of the cup. 

The receptacle for water is hung about six feet from 
the floor, or else it is attached to a strong cord and a small 
pulley used for raising and lowering it. The water passes 
through rubber tubing from this receptacle into the tiny 
cup, against the face and then out again through more tub- 



THE SKIN. 



45 



ing into a jar or bowl placed at a convenient distance from 
the operating chair. This bowl should always hold enough 
water to cover the end of the outlet tube, otherwise air 
enough could be sucked into the tubing to force the cup 
away from the face. 

The suction is regulated not only by the distance the bag 
is hung from the floor, but also by the distance the inlet 




Massage Cup, 
Showing Electrical Connection, 



tube in the cup is from the face, matters easily regulated 
by the operator at will. 

Before applying the cup to the face, the inlet tube must 
be placed in the position desired, and the stream of water 
may then be allowed to run through the cup into the bowl 
in order to ascertain whether there is sufficient force. If 
any obstruction is present it may be quickly removed by 
thrusting a small wire into the inlet tube and thus removing 
any foreign matter. 

An entirely new and it is firmly believed the most val- 
uable treatment, not previously described, is given by means 




Figure fj. 

The Lines about the Eve. 



THE SKIN. 47 

of a cup made of insulated material provided with a mov- 
able inlet tube that may be taken out whenever necessary 
for a thorough cleansing, while an extra arm projecting 
from the upper side makes it possible to charge the liquid 
by means of electricity by simply inserting the small tip 
of the ordinary cord from the battery. This cup is so con- 
structed that it may be used with or without the current, 
though of course the majority of operators much prefer 
utilizing the electric current because of the wonderful 
improvement made possible by this method of treating the 
skin. The combination of forces presented by means of 
this "Electrolytic Massage" are so numerous that one can 
not mention all of them. The skin is not only lifted and 
cleansed as with the ordinary water massage, but also at 
the same time solutions medicated to suit each condition are 
forced into the deeper tissues by means of cataphoresis. 
thus making a marked improvement in the work of remov- 
ing any defect of the skin. 

In the chapter on wrinkles it will be remembered that 
one of the causes of these unwelcome visitors was stated 
as "the flattening of the papillae" in the deeper layers of 
the skin. In this treatment the electric current so strength- 
ens and stimulates them that the appearance of age may 
be effectively retarded, pores long obstructed by black- 
heads may be cleansed, the sebaceous glands aided in their 
work, while coloring matter deposited in the deeper layers 
of the skin may also be sufficiently affected to make bleach- 
ing the flesh a far more simple matter. 

The manner of using the cup is not at all difficult, and 
in Figure 4 the method of applying it to the face is clearly 
shown. In beginning a treatment it is always well to apply 
the cup to the flesh portion of the cheek before opening 
the shut off. Then hold it there long enough to establish 



48 THE SKIN. 

a suction, and using the fingers as guides, gently move it 
in direction indicated by the arrow in the illustration, bring- 
ing it back toward the nose and then out again in a sort of 
triangular movement. By observing the general rules for 
massage and using sufficient deliberation in moving the cup 
about, and always remembering to keep the outlet tube 
pointed downward, but little water will be spilled by a 
beginner, while a professional will almost never experience 
any difficulty. The hardest places to treat are the forehead 
and the sides of the nose, but even here with care, there will 
be little real trouble. 

In every instance it must be remembered that the ringers 
simply serve as aids in the work and care must be exerted 
to avoid using undue pressure. When once the suction is 
established, the cup glides easily over the skin and good 
work is really retarded by attempting to hold it firmly. 

The first treatment is always given with warm water, 
and in this may be placed the various substances indicated 
by the conditions found. If the skin is scaly, dry and 
shriveled, a half cup of saturated solution of borax may 
be added to the water and the negative electrode of the Gal- 
vanic current attached to the cup, while the subject holds 
the positive in her hand. The Galvanic current is indicated 
in every treatment because it alone has the power to change 
the solutions and force them into the deeper tissues. When 
the cup is used with the Faradic current a stimulating 
action is the result, and when used without electricity the 
solution simply acts as when applied to the skin in an 
ordinary manner with the exception that the pores absorb 
more readily because of the gentle suction employed. 

If the skin appears lifeless and looks as though it needed 
stimulation, a half cup of saturated solution of salt is to 
be added to the water and again the Galvanic current may 




Figure 7. 
Massage — the Rotary Motion. 



50 THE SKIN. 

be employed. This salt solution has a truly remarkable 
effect on many skins and is often employed by the author 
as the best method of aiding Nature in the work of remedy- 
ing existing defects. 

In the treatment of blackheads, or where the skin 
appears coarse and oily, a half cup of soda solution is used 
and the same electric attachment made. Negative to the 
cup, positive to the hand of the patient. 

For a yellow and discolored skin, or one covered with 
moth patch, the salt solution may be employed if there is 
no oily appearance and the soda solution where oiliness 
exists. Thus for every condition found there is a possi- 
bility of reaching into the deeper tissues by means of this 
new method. 

Many operators who have never employed the Galvanic 
current hardly know what to expect in the way of a sensa- 
tion, and are agreeably surprised by the pleasant tingling 
produced by this current. A slightly metallic taste is 
usually an accompaniment, but as this is not at all disagree- 
able no one ever complains about it. The effect on the 
nerves is so restful that it is recommended by many physi- 
cians for this reason alone. It must be remembered in giv- 
ing a treatment that if the skin is in very bad condition the 
more cells that are brought into circuit and the longer the 
treatment is continued the more rapid the effect. Of course 
this is a rule that must be used with discretion, and hence 
the following suggestion must be observed. In connection 
with this form of treatment, six cells from the ordinary 
battery may be employed at first, and others brought into 
circuit as required. The sensations described by the subject 
are usually the best guides to the number of cells used as 
the tingling gives way to an unpleasant pricking if too 
much electricity is used. The best equipment includes 



THE SKIX. 51 

■r 

always a milliampere meter, which permits of accurate 
measurement of the current : not more than two milliamperes 
will be tolerated by the average person, though of course 
a smaller quantity is tried to begin with, and more gradually 
brought into use as may be indicated by the tolerance of 
the patient. 

Following the use of the warm water the manipulation 
with the finger tips commences, and here especial emphasis 
must be placed on the use of the proper ointments, for the 
skin has been so cleansed and stimulated that it is in the 
most receptive condition. For the dry, shriveled skin, 
Tissue Food should be employed. For the dark, discolored 
or freckled skin the Whitening Creme will be necessary, 
while for blackheads, pimples. \ large pores or oily skins 
the Acne Cream is always used. In every instance the neck 
must also be included in the treatment or otherwise the 
difference in color will be too apparent. 

Immediately after this finger massage the bag must be 
filled with cold water to which half a cup of saturated solu- 
tion of alum has been added. Here the Faradic current 
may be employed if desired or the negative pole of the 
Galvanic current may again be attached to the cup. The 
use of the cold water is especially to be commended about 
the eyes and beneath the chin because of its tendency to 
make the flesh firm. The effect of this last treatment is so 
deiiciously invigorating that one enthusiast describes it as 
being just what she should imagine a "mental shower bath 
might be." 

Following this cold water, powder must be dusted over 
the skin before the subject is allowed to go into the air. 
If the skin is unusually sensitive and shows powder readily, 
the Acacia Balm may be applied as a substitute. If the 
skin is unusually oily and thus needs further attention, a 











w i v ^ 




MP^ 


i 


ll 




r 




%&. 


tJc**. 


s, *te*tk 



Figure 8. 
Massage of the Eyelid. 



THE SKIN. 



53 



soft cloth may be immersed in this solution and rubbed 
gently over the surface before applying the vegetable 
powder. 

Violet Water, 8 ounces. 

Alcohol, i ounce. 

Oxide Zinc, I drachm. 

Tinct. Benzoin, I drachm. 

Crystals Menthol, 5 grains. 

The powder may then be dusted on carefully as a finish- 
ing touch to an ideal treatment. 




Figure 9. 
Massage of the Neck. 



CHAPTER VI. 

HOW TO MASSAGE. 

The work of massaging the face is not one that can be 
learned in two or three lessons or by means of reading a 
few lines on the subject. It is a study that takes both time 
and practice. Results will be excellent in all cases that are 
studied and worked upon carefully, but unless the work is 
done in this manner nothing worth while can be accom- 
plished. 

The system of massage advocated in this book is one 
that is based not on the pet ideas of one or two people, 
but on the strong foundation of the requirements of the skin 
as known from the study of physiology and anatomy. Not 
only the muscles have been considered, but the positions 
of the nerves and blood vessels have also been a matter of 
much study and as a consequence the method illustrated, 
when properly carried out, will indeed do much for the 
patient. The illustrations not only indicate from the posi- 
tion of the arrows just what direction the manipulations 
are to take, but also show just when the rotary motion 
is of most benefit, by the presence of the spiral. Most 
of the work should be done with the soft tips of the two 
first fingers excepting when in massage of the cheeks or 
neck or chin the flat fingers of the hand are indicated. 

The most successful masseuse will naturally be she who 
understands and practices her art in a conscientious man- 
ner. When in addition to the real interest she feels in each 
patient she is also sufficiently versed in the study of human 
nature to be able to give each one the most suitable advice, 
she is doubly fortunate, for she will succeed in instilling a 



56 THE SKIN. 

sensation of confidence always necessary for the best 
results. 

In the previous chapter the importance of -thoroughly 
cleansing the skin has been sufficiently explained. By fol- 
lowing the directions given and remembering the impor- 
tance of using the proper ointment during the manipula- 
tion by the fingers, the preliminary work will be well done. 
In all work one must remember that massage is to the 
face what careful pressing is to a gown. Both processes 
preserve an appearance of freshness and obliterate unsightly 
folds. Any one who is at all observant, and alert to the 
possibilities of improvement, may obtain results by prac- 
ticing the rules given in the care of her own face, and thus 
proving to her own satisfaction the absolute correctness of 
the method. 

In beginning a treatment it is not only unnecessary but 
undesirable to coat the face thickly with creme. If too 
much is applied the fingers slip about instead of manipu- 
lating the flesh properly and no real massage can be given. 
Just enough should be applied to make the work pleasant, 
and more may be added from time to time. 

The creme should never be taken from the jar by the 
fingers but should either be dipped out by means of an 
ivory spatula and then applied to a bit of cotton to be 
rubbed on to the face, or a fresh ivory spatula may be 
utilized for each person, always taking out enough creme 
to do the massage. By observing this rule and by care- 
fully cleansing and disinfecting the hands, both after a mas- 
sage and before giving one, there will be no danger of carry- 
ing germs by carelessness on the part of the operator. Too 
much importance cannot be placed on careful adherence to 
these rules as in this way only can thoroughly honest work 
be done. 



THE SKIN. 57 

The pressure exerted by the fingers should be firm 
though gentle and in no case should undue strength be 
exerted as the result would be to bruise the deeper tissues. 
The motion of the fingers must be leisurely. No good 
massage can be performed in a hurried or jerky manner. 
As a guide to the length of time necessary for the aver- 
age case it may be stated that at least forty minutes will 
be required for each treatment, allowing for the use of the 
electrolytic massage, both before and after manipulation. 
Work done by using hot towels in connection with the 
finger manipulation can of course be given in less time, 
but the entire practice is so wrong from every standpoint 
that it is to be hoped no really good operator will consider 
attempting it. 

In every face some portions will be far more deeply 
lined than others, and of course in these sections more work 
must be done in order to make the wrinkles as dim as pos- 
sible, while advice should be given in regard to any habits 
that might induce the presence of these lines, for often 
only a few reminders will suffice to cure the subject of 
carelessness in these matters. 

After applying the creme used it should be rubbed into 
the skin of the face and neck by means of a gently rotary 
motion and after a little of this preliminary stroking the 
real massage may be commenced by working first of ail 
upon the forehead according to the directions given. 

The lines on the forehead are generally rather obstinate 
to erase, as in the majority of people the habit of raising 
the brows continually while conversing or of squinting the 
eyes while attempting to do fine work has made the straight 
creases between the eyes and the horizontal folds extremely 
deep. In illustration (Figure 5) the proper motion for 
erasing the long lines is seen, and the tips of the two first 



58 THE SKIN. 

fingers are used for this purpose, pressing gently but firmly 
on the flesh. The fingers of one hand move down toward 
the brow, while those of the other move toward the fore- 
head, thus passing and repassing continually while the proc- 
ess is continued. After a few moments' work the effect 
will be seen to be remarkably pleasing, as even the deepest 
lines yield to the gentle pressure. 

The vertical lines between the eyes are best rubbed as 
indicated in Figure 7, in a rotary motion made by pressing 
the fingers firmly upon the flesh and then describing small 
circles. In this work only the fingers of one hand may be 
used for the massage, though the two first fingers of the 
other may be used for keeping the flesh in place. When 
these lines show a tendency to spring back into place almost 
immediately, it is well to smooth out the forehead until it 
is free from lines and then paste bits of court plaster across 
the lines in such a manner that they cannot form again. 
This little precaution is extremely valuable and when ap- 
plied during the first part of the treatment often assists in 
the work of making the face appear better. The fact that 
the court plaster prevents contraction of the brows reminds 
the patient that the habit may be broken by the exercise 
of a little effort. 

The lines radiating from the eyes are apt to form the 
earliest of any, and often the deepest and most difficult 
are indicative of nothing more than an extremely merry 
disposition. Women who have much trouble, physical or 
mental, are also apt to have deep lines, while those with 
weak eyes are especially afflicted. In Figure 6 the correct 
motion for pressing out these lines is indicated. The flesh is 
held between the thumb and forefinger of the one hand 
firmly while the two first fingers of the other are used to 
rub down across the lines, and in a gentle rotary motion 



THE SKIN. 59 

beneath the eyes. Figure 8 shows the manner in which 
the eyelid is to be rubbed, and Figure 7 indicates the rotary 
motion used directly below the eye. This work about the 
eyes is most particular and must be carried on very gently 
indeed. Where there is much bagginess and puffiness be- 
neath the eyes there should be a great deal of the cold 
water used in the water massage treatment, and the rotary 
motion should be very light, leaving most of the work to 
be done by the vibratile for the gentle tapping motion stim- 
ulates without stretching or pulling. The massage from 
the corners of the eye may be continued up to the temples, 
rubbing as indicated in Figure 7. 

The nose may be massaged as indicated in Figures 7 
and 8. In this work the motion may be continued down 
from the space between the eyes across the tiny lines that 
sometimes form each side of the nose. From the bridge 
down to each nostril the pressure may be firm or light, 
according to the results desired. People with thick nostrils 
generally desire to have them made as unobtrusive as pos- 
sible, and the work of massage will accomplish a great deal 
in so affecting the cartilages that the thick appearance may 
be effectively subdued. 

The cheeks, as indicated by the arrows, are best treated 
by rubbing in the manner shown from the center of the 
face outward. For this work it is well to use the flat portion 
of the hands and in rubbing, watch carefully to see that no 
new lines are rubbed in around the eyes or temples. The 
deep lines running from the corners of the mouth to the 
nose may be rapidly rubbed out by this method. In Figure 
7 the arrows indicate that attention should also be directed 
to rubbing the flesh below and directly in front of the ears 
also, as small lines forming there soon develop into per- 
fect furrows unless promptly discouraged. 



60 THE SKIN. 

The mouth is peculiarly difficult to manipulate, both be- 
cause the lines about it are apt to be sharply defined, and 
also because the fingers are apt to slip away from the yield- 
ing surface. In Figure 8 the best method is illustrated. 
The forefinger is placed in the center of the circle and the 
thumb and second fingers are placed at the corner of the 
mouth and then drawn slowly toward the center. This may 
need to be repeated a number of times before the exact mo- 
tion is acquired, as the flesh is so flexible. The lines are 
little half circles shaped thus ( ) at the corners of the 
mouth and are best obliterated by rubbing from the mouth 
in the direction indicated by the arrows. 

The chin is massaged as shown in Figure 7, the circular 
motion may be done by the two first fingers or else the 
chin may be grasped firmly in the hand and a twisting mo- 
tion from side to side given. The flabby flesh or baggy 
portion directly beneath the chin may be made much less 
conspicuous by using the proper motions very frequently. 
As indicated, the stroking is to be done from the center 
down toward the neck. This work can also be aided 
greatly by the use of the electric vibratile, and much cold 
water in giving the water massage. The fi sh will become 
firm and solid and the tendency to flabbiness will disappear 
gradually under treatment. 

The neck may be rubbed, as shown in Figure 9, by using 
the four fingers held flatly on the flesh and drawing them 
back from the center always. Never attempt to rub the 
neck up and down at the sides, but always in the same 
direction toward the back. The deep lines that form back 
of the ears and run toward the front may be easily kept 
in suggestion by directing much attention to this spot in 
the use of the water massage. When the neck is at all 
discolored, as after the use of high or stiff collars the mas- 



THE SKIN. 61 

sage may be given with the whitening creme, thus accom- 
plishing two things at the same time in the way of bleach- 
ing and removing lines. 

The finger massage finished, the vibratile may next be 
employed, and as shown in Figure 10 the tips are connected 
to the Galvanic portion of the battery and then the instru- 
ment is gently guided over the face producing an agree- 
ably soothing sensation most enjoyable to the patient. 
Although the illustration shows the connection as made to 
the wet cell battery, in actual practice this is not advisable 
and instead either the connection from the wall plate should 
be utilized or else four or five dry cells may be arranged 
in such a manner that the connection may be made to them. 
This latter arrangement is advisable even when a dry cell 
battery is in use, as it saves the strain on the cells used 
for other purposes. 

Following the use of the vibratile the cold water may 
be employed, always remembering the hints given before in 
regard to the tonic action of the liquid when used beneath 
the eyes and under a chin that shows a tendency to become 
flabby. The addition of alum to this water cannot be too 
strongly commended as it does much to restore firmness 
to the skin. In the use of this treatment there need never 
be any fear of injuring or stretching the skin in any man- 
ner. Continued use only tends to keep the flesh pliable, 
firm and fresh in coloring as well as in most healthy con- 
dition. In fact the flabbiest skin will be wonderfully 
improved by commencing this work even after years of neg- 
lect have tended to make the task appear hopeless. Of 
course, however, in this, as in everything else, one must 
remember that the treatments must be given at regular 
intervals, and the care at home must be what common sense 
demands, to achieve the most pleasing and speedy results, 




Figure 10. 
Use of the Vibratile. 



THE SKIN. 63 

though if only an occasional treatment can be taken the 
opportunity should be grasped, for in any event improve- 
ment is sure to follow. 

If the face massaged is that of an elderly woman, or if 
the skin seems poorly nourished, the use of electricity is 
advisable in place of the mallets. For this purpose the 
current may be used immediately after the supply of cold 
water has been exhausted, and may be administered through 
the finger-tips as illustrated, or better still, by means of the 
vibratile. The face should not be treated by electricity for 
longer than ten minutes and the skin should be powdered 
as usual after the treatment is finished. Very severe cases 
where the lines are unusually deep and the skin, exception- 
ally dry in appearance, should be treated daily if possible, 
and a sensible diet, with sufficient exercise, recommended. 
Improvement is absolutely certain, though, of course, it will 
not be as rapid in older women as in younger ones. The 
necessary point is persistence, and if the woman troubled 
with lines is also endowed with a will, the work will as- 
suredly do all that can be wished. 



CHAPTER VII. 

BLACKHEADS, PIMPLES AND MILIA. 

One of the most difficult tasks assigned to the masseuse 
is the treatment of the loathsome pimple and blackhead 
cases so extremely common among young people of both 
sexes. The demand for this work has never been so great 
as it is at the present time, for it is only within the past few 
years that people have realized that affections of this kind 
could be termed skin diseases rather than blood disorders. 
Still, notwithstanding the interest manifested in the work, 
comparatively few of the operators even in the largest cities 
either understand or practice the art of improving skins so 
afflicted. 

In fact, even well-informed parents so far forget their 
knowledge of physiology as to declare the blackheads should 
not be removed, but allowed to "run their course." Their 
awakening has been indeed bitter, for ordinarily the result 
of neglect in these cases terminates in most repulsive erup- 
tions of pimples filled with pus, causing the skin to appear as 
though it were dotted with festered lumps. In many in- 
stances the flesh has become permanently thickened, and 
the complexion made dull and muddy by this failure to take 
the proper treatments. 

The great secret of success in this work is in the exer- 
tion of constant and untiring care. If all cases of black- 
heads were taken in hand immediately, and persistently 
worked upon until cured, there would be more good com- 
plexions to be seen, while obstinate disorders of this kind 
would indeed be rare. 

The term "blackhead"_ really is not one used by those 



THE SKIN. 65 

who. wish to be correct, but it is so descriptive that it has be- 
come commonly accepted and is universally known. The 
text-books refer to these obstructions as comedones, while 
many people still persist in declaring that "flesh worm" de- 
scribes them perfectly, at the same time insisting that the 
pests are really alive. In point of fact, whatever may be 
the term used, these much-discussed and troublesome inva- 
ders are nothing but fat, white plugs, formed by accumula- 
tions of the sebaceous secretions that persist in blocking up 
the pores 'and thus preventing the glands from perform- 
ing their functions. 

Although at one time supposed to indicate uncleanliness, 
blackheads are so frequently found that the old idea has 
given way to another in which all authorities declare that 
they are caused by some peculiar local condition and do not 
necessarily indicate anything beyond this fact, though func- 
tional disturbances and lack of sufficient nutrition may be 
cited as disturbing elements. However, the majority of 
cases are found in young and robust people who are other- 
wise models of physical excellence, so this latest idea seems 
to be based upon sound reason. 

There are many varieties of these black plagues, all of 
them requiring much attention and earnest work before 
they can be persuaded to leave. Some are fine and so tightly 
embedded in the skin that it seems impossible to dislodge 
them. Others are large and coarse, and even protrude 
above the surface, leaving deep pits in the skin when re- 
moved, thus making much massage necessary in these spots. 
Still others seem to possess a tendency to fester, and upon 
pressure, not only the blackhead but pus comes out at the 
same time. All of them require the same treatment, for 
if the pores are to be made to appear as they should and 
the glands are to perform their natural functions, these 



66 THE SKIN. 

obstructions must be removed and the applications of oint- 
ments made that will assist in the process of reducing the 
size of the enlarged pores by restoring tone to, the glands. 
In removing blackheads care must be taken not to bruise 
the tissue, and the habit of squeezing the skin between the 
thumb nails, using a watch key or any instrument not espe- 
cially intended for this purpose is to be strongly condemned. 
The use of the face steamer before the work of pressing 
these blackheads out, is also injurious, as the fat is extracted 
from the tissues by means of the intense heat and this in- 
creases the tendency of the skin to scar. The comedone 
extractor is provided with a tiny scoop at one end and is 
made with either a needle point or a knife at the other. 
This instrument produces the best effect, for it not only re- 
moves the blackheads easily by means of gentle pressure, 
but it also marks the skin but little, and never permanently 
scars or bruises the flesh. 

HOW TO PROCEED IN THE BLACKHEAD AND PIMPLE WORK. 

First of all, the face should be cleansed by anointing it 
with lettuce cream, and using the automatic massage and 
very warm water. All superfluous creme may now be re- 
moved from the skin by the use of some absorbent cotton, t 
and the flesh well washed with a three per cent solution of x 
formalin, using for this purpose a soft cloth or some of the 
cotton. The hands, of course, have been scrubbed with 
soap and water and immersed in an antiseptic solution, and 
the instruments cleansed as directed in the chapter on ster- 
ilizing. The tiny scoop on the end of the comedone ex- 
tractor is now used to press down at the side of each black- 
head and gentle pressure exerted in order to force it out. If 
it seems unusually obstinate it is best to pass on to the next 
one or else use the needle point for puncturing the little fold 



THE SKIN. 67 

that sometimes forms over the black dots. It is best not 
to remove too many at one time, and not to irritate the 
flesh very much at first, as the skin is apt to be extremely 
tender for a time. Pressure about the nose or on the fore- 
head is rather painful and much care should be exerted 
when working on these sections of the skin. In Illustration 
1 1 the use of the comedone extractor and method of re- 



The Comedone Extractor. 

moving blackheads is nicely depicted. After all that will 
come out easily have been removed, the acne cream is ap- 
plied, and massage with the finger-tips follows, pressing 
with the balls of the fingers, especially upon the parts that 
have been treated. This treatment is especially directed 
toward improving the nutrition of the flesh and is a most 
important part of the treatment. After about fifteen min- 
utes' work the bag may again be filled with warm water 
and used as before and the treatment finished by using the 
cold water. 

The work of treating pimples is to many so repulsive that 
they refuse to even consider it. However, when one con- 
siders the actual benefit not only physically but mentally 
that will come to the one who is properly treated, this re- 
pugnance will usually vanish, and instead a genuine interest 
in the work will be manifested. 

There are so many varieties of pimples that the very 
list of names would be confusing, hence in speaking of them 
they will all be classed under the very general title so com- 
monly used. Those found either in connection with black- 
heads or alone are invariably filled with pus and look red 




Figure 11 



Using the Comedone Extractor. 



THE SKIN. . 69 

and angry. They will sometimes appear in certain parts of 
the face, and after remaining several weeks will vanish, 
only to be replaced in a week or so with another pimple in 
precisely the same place and quite as obstinate as the first 
one. Other pimples will appear and itch so intolerably that 
it seems absolutely necessary to scratch the skin. The 
finger-nails thus convey the infection from one part of the 
skin to another and as a consequence the entire face be- 
comes broken out in a disgusting eruption. In all cases, 
the only way of permanently removing and curing these 
pustules is by observing the following instructions : 

The skin should be cleansed and prepared as directed 
in blackhead work, and of course the same precautions 
observed in sterilizing instruments and in preparing the 
hands. The sharp end of the curette should then be em- 
ployed to open the pimple and the tiny scoop used for 
pressing out the contents. After all the pus or cheesy mat- 
ter that will come away easily has been pressed out, the 
cavity may be entered by a fine-pointed needle attached to 
a hypodermic syringe and conveying a stream of dioxide 
of hydrogen. This must be injected carefully, a little at a 
time as the pus unites with the dioxide to form a sizzling 
white foam. The injections of the dioxide should be con- 
tinued until no more foam appears. The method of using 
this syringe is plainly shown in Illustration 12. As, in the 
blackhead work, caution should be observed, as to opening 
many pimples at a time or many in the same locality, for 
the face frequently is extremely sensitive and it is impos- 
sible to do much work at a sitting. After the pimples have 
been opened and the contents expressed, deep massage 
should be given with the acne ,cream and the treatment fin- 
ished by the use of the hot and cold water and the auto- 
matic massage and mallets. 




Figure 12. 

Using the Hypodermic Syringe, 



THE SKIN. 71 

In case there is any fear about using the hypodermic 
needle, much good may be accomplished in this work by 
placing on the skin sheets of absorbent cotton soaked in the 
dioxide of hydrogen. If the blood flows freely from these 
incisions, so much the better, as this assists greatly in car- 
rying away the effete matter. 

Small pimples in which the pus seems upon the point of 
bursting out should all be opened and the skin covered with 
the sheets of cotton soaked in the dioxide, after pressure 
has removed all of the contents that will come out readily. 

In many instances, where the face is covered with pim- 
ples and treatments have to be continued for some time, 
the smaller ones that have not been touched will gradually 
grow more and more minute and will finally disappear. 
When this tendency exists, it is, of course, unnecessary to 
open them. 

The scars left from these incisions are generally in- 
visible. Of course many instances have been quoted where 
people have been scarred for life. This has been where 
the instruments have not been properly sterilized or where 
the patient, unable to keep her fingers away, has so irritated 
the flesh that the inflammation has persisted for a long time. 
Pimples opened in the usual manner at home by the aid of 
a cambric needle, or any other instrument that happens to 
be about, usually do leave a dull purple scar that takes 
months to vanish and in some instances may remain perma- 
nently. Professionals are so careful in their work and in 
the use of nourishing ointment on the skin, that after the 
course of a few days no obtrusive mark is visible, and in 
two weeks or so the skin is generally smooth, as can be seen 
in Figure 13. 

In a few instances, where the pimples seem obstinate 
about disappearing and where there is a dread of making 




Figure 13. 
A Smooth Skin After Skillful Work. 



THE SKIN. 73 

a fresh incision, the use of the negative needle has been of 
much benefit. At least four cells should be used, and the 
needle should be thrust into the skin for some depth, making 
each insertion for about one-half minute and select- 
ing at least four points for the purpose. The mallets may 
also be employed after the usual massage, and the brisk 
tattoo serves an important part in improving the nutrition of 
the skin. After every treatment a little powder should be 
dusted over the skin before the patient ventures into the 
air, as following the use of so much hot water and massage 
the skin is naturally extremely tender. 

The results of these treatments are invariably all that 
can be expected when the work is properly done and there 
is no grave disorder of the system. Even where there are 
other complications the use of these antiseptic preparations 
on the skin will positively improve it greatly. Ordinarily 
the statement may be made that every case with no draw- 
backs in the way of physical disturbances of any impor- 
tance will be permanently cured. Even after years of neg- 
lect the greatest of changes can be made in skins that seem 
absolutely hopeless by going at the work systematically. In 
those who are young, and where the disease has not be- 
come chronic, improvement is often most marvelous. 

Unfortunately for both the masseuse and the patient, 
they seldom meet until every other method recommended 
by every authority has been tried. This leaves the masseuse 
not only with much work to do, but also with more to undo, 
for frequently the efforts made to abolish the pimples have 
been the very things that should, under no circumstances, 
be attempted. 

The masseuse who achieves the best results will be she 
who plainly and honestly explains to her patients the method 
she uses and who makes them realize that not onlv her 



74 THE SKIN. 

efforts but theirs are necessary if the work is to be suc- 
cessful'. She must impress upon them that these afflictions 
have in a manner become "habits of the skin," and that like 
other habks, time will be required to correct them. She 
can make no promises as to the length of time required, for, 
as in everything else, it is impossible to definitely promise 
relief by a certain date, owing to the uncertainty in regard 
to the manner in which the skin takes the treatment. In 
some instances the improvement in two or three weeks is 
wonderful ; others require a month before much of a change 
can be seen, and all skins require treatments at intervals for 
some time, as there is often manifested a tendency to re- 
lapse unless the work is continued long enough. 

In small towns it is often impossible to find a good 
masseuse, so in this event it will be necessary for the pa- 
tient to do the work at home. Of course, the progress is 
slower than when the treatments can be taken from a pro- 
fessional, as it is nearly impossible to obtain the deep mas- 
sage except when given by another person. Upon this one 
thing much hinges, that when there is even the slightest 
chance to obtain treatments they should be taken in order to 
obtain the effect of the finger massage on the skin. Ex- 
tremely difficult cases need at least one hour per day for 
treatment, lighter cases require, say, two treatments a week 
or work performed every other day, while ordinary cases 
may be treated every fourth day urttil much improvement 
is manifested. After that time once a week will be suffi- 
cient. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

DIET AND DIRECTIONS FOR HOME WORK IN CURE OF 

BLACKHEADS. 

When work must be done at home without other assist- 
ance it must be performed systematically if the results are 
to be pleasing. One of the most important requisites is in 
the use of a good cleansing agent, for even after the pores 
have been freed of the plugs, there is often a tendency to- 
ward the formation of new ones. The ointments are twice 
as efficacious when readily absorbed, hence the cleansing 
agent must be used frequently and thoroughly to further 
this end, If the skin is dry, sensitive and easily irritated, 
it must be cleansed each night with soap practically neutral 
in reaction. If on the other hand it is not only speckled 
with blackheads, but appears to be oily and greasy, the tinc- 
ture of green soap should be used. This is made as fol- 
lows : 

Tincture of green soap: 

Green soap 45 

Alcohol 4 § 

Ether 4 g 

Dissolve the green soap in the liquids and use by pouring 
a little into hot water or directly upon the washcloth and 
then immersing it in water. The cleansing must be reli- 
giously done each night and the special cream (acne is the 
best) should be rubbed in well with the tips of the fingers 
after this process. In the morning the face may be washed 
in cold water and the antiseptic lotion applied with a 
sponge. If the skin seems unduly irritated by this, the 






76 THE SKIN. 

lotion may be diluted by pouring a little into a bottle con- 
taining some water. Then gradually the full strength- may 
be used. If the skin appears badly, and the patient feels 
embarrassed about going out in public the acne cream may 
be applied and rubbed in well and the vegetable powder 
dusted over it as a sort of disguise. 

This work must be done every night, of course, even 
when under treatment by a professional, and it will be 
noticed that the rubbing recommended has a remarkably 
good effect on these obstinate little eruptions, for very fre- 
quently, by applying a little acne cream and then using the 
ball of the finger for massage with deep pressure, the pim- 
ple that is just appearing will be persuaded to depart. 

The use of the comedone extractor may be continued as 
described, and at night before retiring after washing the skin 
well with the warm water the little scoop may be used by 
pressing gently at the side of each blackhead and endeavor- 
ing to remove as many as possible without producing much 
inflammation. The automatic massage may be easily used 
after a little practice and will be valuable in making the im- 
provement more rapid. 

The diet is most important and should be closely 
watched. One of the greatest skin specialists who uses this 
method of treating his patients and who especially advo- 
cates the comedone extractor and the deep massage is also 
most anxious in regard to the diet adopted. The most diffi- 
cult cases are placed upon a diet of bread and milk without 
too much bread. Little meat is allowed excepting where 
the patient is deficient in blood, and the following articles of 
food are absolutely denied in all cases : Pastries, cakes, rich 
gravies, salads, liquor, spiced food, fried foods of any 
description and all sweets. The articles that seem most dif- 
ficult to abstain from using are the sweets and pastries. By 



THE SKIN. 77 

urging and insisting, fruit may be substituted for these 
dainties and the effect has been to so change the appetite 
that the forbidden foods have not been desired. 

Constipation must positively be abolished ; the woman 
or girl who expects to look well while in the possession 
of a torpid liver may as well make up her mind to be dis- 
appointed. In addition to the use of laxatives it is well to 
regulate the bowels by eating as much fruit as possible and 
also by physical culture exercises, especially those in which 
these organs may be affected. Drinking a glass or so of 
warm water a half hour before meals will also be most ef- 
fective, especially when followed by eating foods that are 
properly prepared. 

Bathing is most important, and a very warm bath should 
be taken at least three times a week, with a sponge once a 
day over every portion of the body so that all of the pores 
may have an opportunity for excreting the effete matter 
and absorbing the materials applied. When the skin is 
extremely oily, the bath made by adding the rock salt and 
ammonia to the water may be used with good effect. The 
liquid sulphur bath, also mentioned in the chapter on bath- 
ing, will be found extremely beneficial in cases of this de- 
scription. Care must be taken, however, in using this bath 
to wash the face with clear water both before entering and 
before leaving the bath. 

Electricity is equally essential and should be employed as 
suggested. In case the patient has obstinate pimples that 
have recurred constantly for months and years, after they 
have been opened and the pus extracted, the cavities should 
be entered with the needle attached to the negative pole. 
This should be done after the pus has been removed ex- 
cepting in instances where it seems impossible to press out 
the cheesy matter. In this event, the needle may be in- 



78 THE SKIN. 

serted several times from different directions until the mat- 
ter becomes sufficiently affected by the heat to become softer 
and press out easily. The positive needle is not'indicated in 
this treatment, as the resulting scar is apt to be permanent. 
After the pimples have disappeared fairly well, and there is 
a desire to improve the nutrition of the skin, the bipolar 
method may be used as illustrated and the lotion forced into 
the skin, using a treatment that lasts for about fifteen min- 
utes. In addition to this work the vibratile may be em- 
ployed for the stimulating effect, though it is well to employ 
the bipolar method first. 

. The masseuse will usually obtain better results in the 
treatment of blackhead and pimple cases than the physician, 
because she spends more time upon the after treatment. 
All specialists insist upon the importance of massage as of 
aid in restoring tone to the skin, but they object to the labor 
involved, and after opening the pimples and removing the 
blackheads dismiss the patient with either no massage, or 
else so little that the effect is not worth mentioning. In 
this work every detail must be considered and every aid 
suggested intelligently employed, if the desired effect is to 
be obtained. 

The suggestions outlined here may seem to the casual 
reader a bit difficult. In reality they are most simple and 
the refined and sensitive woman who realizes the importance 
of possessing a clear and attractive skin will most assuredly 
not object to the amount of labor involved; and, when one 
contrasts the repulsive and loathsome condition that results 
from eruptions of this kind made even worse by the pres- 
ence of innumerable blackheads, no task will seem too ardu- 
ous if relief can be obtained. The presence of some disgust- 
ing disease is invariably thought by the multitude to be in- 
dicated by an eruption of any kind, while the semblance of 



THE SKIN. 79 

uncleanliness is so marked that it is impossible to imagine 
a person so afflicted as really being clean. Actual practice 
so quickly proves that it is unnecessary to possess these 
pests, that any one who is sufficiently ambitious will devote 
every spare moment to the work, sparing no effort , to rid 
herself of the unsightly blemishes which not only disfigure 
her face but also disturb her peace of mind. 

MILIA. 

An affliction almost as discouraging as blackheads, al- 
though it possesses the distinction of being less repulsive, is 
that known by the scientists as "milia" from the word 
"milium" meaning millet seed. This name so aptly describes 
the appearance of the skin that it is indeed happily chosen 
for the tiny, hard lumps sometimes yellow and again pearly 
white, varying in size from a small protuberance to one the 
size of a large pin head, resemble more nearly than anything 
else, the appearance of seed scattered over the face. Of 
course these same scientific people who have bestowed this 
appropriate name have spent much time in attempting to 
find out why this condition exists, and have finally ended 
by deciding that it is purely a local affair, having little or 
nothing to do with the condition of the body. 

As internal medication seems powerless to affect this 
condition, it is well to consider the best means of applying 
the external treatment for each tiny seed, whether em- 
bedded in the skin or projecting above the surface is well 
protected by a singularly tenacious little cap or sac that 
must be opened by some sharp instrument such as a large 
needle or the sharp end of the comedone extractor. The 
lumps must then be pressed out and the cavity thoroughly 
cleansed to do away with the chance of any recurrence and 
the cure will then be permanent. 



80 THE SKIN. 

The face is prepared as in the treatment for blackheads, 
by the application of a cleansing creme, and the use of warm 
water and the automatic massage. It is then carefully 
washed again with a three per cent solution of formalin, 
and the sac opened by a sharp instrument. The small 
cheesy lump is then teased out, and the cavity entered by 
a sterilized needle, dipped into a forty per cent solution of 
chromic acid. The sac is often surprisingly difficult to 
penetrate, and even after it is opened the milium sometimes 
remains obstinately attached to the upper surface, requiring 
the expenditure of much skill in order to dislodge it without 
injury to the skin. Naturally some discretion is to be ex- 
erted in this work, as it is often unwise to remove many of 
the milia at a time. Experience alone can teach how to 
judge each individual case according to its peculiarities, how 
much pressure to exert in coaxing these intruders to depart, 
and how many to remove at a treatment. Care must be 
taken to avoid any chance of a local inflammation and sensi- 
tive skins will be difficult to work upon long at a time. 

In some cases the face will become covered with tiny 
red scabs, after the milia are removed. These scabs must 
not be removed but allowed to dry and drop off, thus mak- 
ing the danger of scarring much less. In others, the milia 
are so small that the use of the needle or knife seems almost 
impossible. In cases of this description the finest iridio 
platinum needle attached to the negative pole of the gal- 
vanic battery may be inserted in each little lump for a mo- 
ment, and as a rule the effect is all that can be desired. In 
very obstinate cases the use of the electric roller is a very 
excellent supplement to the knife or curette, and treatments 
may be given every other day. 

After treatment consists in using the automatic massage' 
with warm water as before, followed by the use of the deep 



THE SKIN. 81 

finger massage given the same as in the blackhead treatment. 
The same ointment, acne cream, is employed with very- 
good success, as the astringent properties are so marked 
that the places operated upon seem to heal more rapidly 
when thus worked upon. 

In this work as in blackheads the chief requisite is in 
persistence in a faithful endeavor to follow directions, not 
occasionally, but as specified. In addition to the local work 
it is well to bathe frequently in warm water and to exercise 
methodically. 



CHAPTER IX. 

CHLOASMA. 

The appearance of yellowish brown patches upon the 
face has not only caused much mortification but also the 
most strenuous efforts to banish. These so-called moth 
or liver patches not only appear upon the cheeks, forehead, 
upper part of the lip and neck, but are also found on various 
sections of the body, and although for many years said to 
have been caused by either a nervous or functional disease, 
they very frequently appear without the least apparent rea- 
son and remain quite as obstinately as those that are caused 
by disease. Many patches of this description either precede 
or accompany physical disturbances, also remaining long 
after the cause has disappeared, thus making local treat- 
ment a necessity, if relief is to be obtained. 

The coloring matter is, as explained in a previous chap- 
ter, situated in the rete malpighii and also to some extent 
in the corium, both deeper layers of the skin. The applica- 
tions of powerful remedies for the purpose of bleaching the 
skin have, instead of curing the trouble, augmented it by 
causing an inflammation which has resulted in an increased 
deposit of pigment at this spot, lasting during the lifetime 
and impossible to remove. 

If the application of such remedies had been continued 
only until redness appeared no such trouble would have oc- 
curred. Hence in treating any such difficulty care must be 
taken to warn the patients against a too vigorous use of a 
remedy in an effort to become beautiful immediately. 

In all external treatment of course the object is to have 
the material employed absorbed as quickly as possible and 



THE SKIN. 83 

to have it so well prepared that the work shall be directed 
particularly to the affected portions. To assist in this 
process of absorption it is necessary that the skin should be 
in the most cleanly condition and this is only possible when 
baths are taken frequently and the pores are kept free from 
obstructions. The average person has about fourteen square 
feet of skin to keep clean, and in this surface are approxi- 
mately 2,000,000 sweat glands and 500,000 oil or sebaceous 
glands to assist in throwing off the waste matter. The 
daily bath will thus be seen to be a common necessity if the 
skin is to be kept as it should be. 

The masseuse who can really remove the ugly discolora- 
tions that make life miserable for so many, will find a great 
demand for her services. In every community there are 
many women who are mortified by the brown spots but 
who have been unable to remove them or to have them 
removed because of their ignorance of the best manner in 
which to proceed. Where the patient is in bad condition 
physically, of course sufficient attention must be paid to 
the diet, regulating the bowels and general treatment as 
well as to local applications of bleaching remedies. How- 
ever it will be found that in many instances those who apply 
for aid are women in excellent health who have tried 
vainly to rid themselves of the disfiguring patches, and 
who are most anxious for any assistance in their endeavors. 

Although the bleaching lotion and whitening creme are 
necessary in this work, the Galvanic current is also most 
important, and the following treatment will be found to give 
speedier results than any other : First of all the skin must 
be washed with a solution of soda and water in order to 
remove all of the fatty acids. Pure peroxide may then be 
sponged on if the skin is very dark and next the negative 
electrode wound with cotton previously saturated in the 
bleaching lotion may be moved from place to place wher- 
ever the discolorations exist and the treatment continued 



84 THE SKIN. 

until a decided redness appears. The patient will of course 
hold the positive electrode in the hand. For the purpose 
of applying the bleaching lotion the carbon -electrode is 
probably the best. 

The next step consists in giving the electrolytic mas- 
sage, and here a strong solution of salt may be used in the 
bag, while of course the massage that follows will be that 
in which the whitening creme is employed. To finish the 
treatment the cold water in which alum is used, may be 
employed. The results of this work are often to be seen 
at the end of the first week, and in any event the third 
week will show such a marked difference that even the 
most doubtful will be convinced of the efficacy of the 
method. 

Warm baths must be taken daily and the diet made as 
simple as possible with absolutely no rich pastries or indi- 
gestible food. The bowels must be kept in good condition, 
and to assist in this process it is well to drink the juice of a 
lemon in warm water each morning and one-half hour be- 
fore the other two meals to take a cup of hot water. Each 
night the face may be washed with the paste soap and warm 
water and the whitening creme rubbed on, paying especial 
attention to the pigmented spots. In the morning after 
washing with cold water the bleaching lotion should be 
applied, diluting it if necessary until the skin becomes ac- 
customed to it. The face should be protected with powder 
before venturing into the air. 

Treatments should be given at least every second day 
until the spots have faded. This method has the advantage 
of being painless as well as efficacious and hence is popular 
with both patient and masseuse. In using it not more than 
six cells of the galvanic battery should be employed to com- 
mence with, adding others as required, for unless care is 



THE SKIN. 85 

taken the patient may declare that the current makes her 
a trifle dizzy. Even those most susceptible to the use of 
the electric current are generally able to bear it if too much 
is not used at one time, so discretion is necessary. 



CHAPTER X. 

OILY, STIPPLED, AND SALLOW SKINS. 

One of the most disagreeable and trying afflictions is the 
condition commonly described as an "oily skin." The 
greased and shining appearance is so marked that nothing 
can conceal it. Drops of oil stand out in place of the ordi- 
nary perspiration and the victim is frequently so mortified 
that she dreads appearing in society, as the slightest exer- 
tion causes this sebaceous secretion to be poured out like 
an oily coating on the face and scalp and in some instances 
upon the entire body. 

The ducts of the sebaceous follicles are generally 
plugged with comedones and the surface of the skin fre- 
quently appears pallid and poorly nourished. The treat- 
ment should be directed not only to the care of the face 
and scalp but also to the proper care of the entire body, and 
the diet as well as daily bath must be made matters of much 
importance. 

The lettuce cream may be applied most liberally before 
using this massage treatment in these instances, as the un- 
guent possesses great cleansing qualities. When, after a few 
moments it is rubbed off, the amount of dirt that is found 
on the towel will be found to be surprisingly great, for 
the oily skin will naturally attract much soot and dust from 
the air. In some instances it is even advisable to repeat the 
application and thus cleanse the skin as thproughly as pos- 
sible before using the massage. In this event the solution 
of soda may be used in just twice the proportion and hence 
to every bag of water, one cup of this mixture may be added 
as the alkaline mixture possesses the same cleansing quali- 



THE SKIN. 87 

ties exhibited by a mild soap. The water may be applied as 
warm as possible and if the face is extremely oily the first 
treatment may be prolonged to some extent. 

The skin, being thoroughly cleansed, the acne cream may 
now be applied, and the finger manipulation brought into 
play in order to cause this cream to be well absorbed, as 
it has an astringent action, especially desirable in such in- 
stances. The rest of the treatment may be given as de- 
scribed in the chapter on massage and the following instruc- 
tion given for home treatment. The work has much better 
results where the treatments may be taken at least two or 
three times a week, for the first two weeks. After this time 
once a week will be sufficient. It is especially necessary 
to restore tone to the skin and for this purpose the manipu- 
lation is extremely beneficial. 

The diet should be limited to simply nourishing foods 
and all oily articles resolutely cut out. No sweets or fats 
or pastries should be eaten, but the fresh vegetables, broiled 
or roasted meats, and fruits may be eaten in abundance. 
The warm bath should be taken daily, and if the entire 
body has this oily appearance it is well to add to the bath 
one cup of soda and one of salt, allowing the entire body to 
be immersed in> the water for some few moments and then 
using the shower with clear water. 

Treatment of the face will consist in washing it with 
warm water and a mild soap each night, the paste soap be- 
ing particularly fine in such instances. Then acne cream 
may be rubbed in well until every particle has been ab- 
sorbed. In the morning cold water with no soap should be 
used on the face and the lotion applied immediately after- 
ward. 

The results of this treatment generally become mani- 
fest in a very short time and improvement will not only 



88 THE SKIN. 

become more marked each day but a cure will result if 
sufficient patience is exercised. Of course, where this ten- 
dency exists it is always well to watch the diet carefully 
and in all cases bathing daily will naturally be a part of the 
life. 

Stippled skins, looking as though the faces had been used 
for pin-cushions, are generally found in people who are 
troubled with this appearance of oil. In some instances the 
large pores have been caused from improper treatment of 
blackheads and pimples, and in all cases the daily bathing 
and routine just recommended for the oily skin will be ex- 
tremely beneficial. A simple experiment said to have a 
great effect upon refining the complexion may be made by 
applying a mask of absorbent cotton each night, first dip- 
ping it in distilled water. The mask is easily made by sim- 
ply taking one layer and cutting out places for the eyes and 
nose and mouth, then binding with tape and using as de- 
scribed. The use of the creme and lotion will generally be 
found all that is necessary, but the mask may be a valuable 
aid. 

SALLOW AND MUDDY SKINS. 

Why people in perfect health should have complexions 
that resemble russet leather is one of the puzzling problems 
that all of us meet occasionally. Yet, there is rarely a day 
that one cannot see a woman who might make a fine ap- 
pearance were it not for the sallow hues that make almost 
any color absolutely impossible. Cases of this kind may be 
wonderfully benefited by systematic work, but to be effect- 
ive it must be impressed upon the mind of the patient that 
as the skin seems to have this tendency naturally, the daily 
effort will therefore need to be systematic and persistent if 
the skin is to be kept in a good condition. 



THE SKIN. 89 

Complexions of this kind do not need a skin food. It is 
not powerful enough to bleach the skin and will therefore 
be superfluous, unless there are lines to rub out, in which 
instance, of course, it may be used in connection with the 
whitening and bleaching creme. The masseuse generally 
has a difficult customer to meet in the person of the woman 
with a complexion that has been obdurate to treatment. Dis- 
couraged and disheartened by past failures she demands a 
positive improvement immediately, or she will not attempt 
the work. The first treatment is therefore a matter of much 
importance both to the masseuse and to the patient. 

If the skin appears not only sallow but muddy and even 
at a hasty glance as though it needed a good washing, in- 
stead of using the lettuce cream as a preliminary to the 
treatment it is well to wash the face thoroughly with soap 
and water and then rinse it off with water to which a little 
borax has been added. Then the undiluted peroxide of 
hydrogen may be applied with a bit of cotton, not forget- 
ting to care for the neck as well as the face, and then when 
the skin is dry the lettuce cream may be applied as usual 
and the massage treatment given. After the warm water 
has been exhausted and the flesh has been rubbed dry, an- 
other application of the peroxide may be made, and then 
the treatment continued. The manipulation of the face with 
the fingers will in this instance be done after applying the 
whitening creme, not the skin food. 

As the sallow and muddy appearance is often caused by 
exposure to the air, it is well to advise a protecting coat of 
powder before going out. This precaution will frequently 
keep the skin from acquiring the unbecoming color in the 
spring and fall. 

The home treatment will, of course, be recommended 
as consisting of the daily bath, plain food, and in many in- 



90 THE SKIN. 

stances a good course in physical culture is especially bene- 
ficial. The whitening cream may be used each night after 
cleansing the skin thoroughly with soap and water and the 
bleaching lotion should be applied in the morning and again 
at noon if the face is in bad condition. If the skin seems to 
need a thorough bleaching it may be done without injuring 
the cuticle by simply applying the lotion twice a day and 
omitting the creme at night for a time. When the face be- 
gins to get rough again omit the lotion and resume the 
creme for a day or two. Continue this until the skin is suf- 
ficiently w r hitened. More rapid bleaching results may be ob- 
tained by applying the -lotion by means of the battery. 

In connection with the subject of bleaching it is well to 
explain that it is unnecessary to remove the cuticle in this 
process. Quite as good work can be done by systematic 
use of the massage and lotion and creme, and the results 
will be far better, for all those who have undergone the 
process of having the cuticle removed must also use most 
exquisite care of the skin for months afterward, as other- 
wise it will tan and peel and become utterly unmanageable. 
The process itself is not so complicated that it cannot be 
easily done, but the results are unsatisfactory and not to be 
commended. The skin of the face and neck may not only 
be bleached light enough to satisfy any one, but may even be 
made whiter than the skin of the body by using the ma- 
terials recommended and being careful to protect with 
powder when going into the air. By applying a creme when- 
ever the face gets at all rough and by discontinuing the 
lotion there will be no trouble with an irritated surface, no 
weeks of seclusion and months of care spent in protecting 
a sensitive skin, but instead a clear, fresh complexion in a 
healthy condition. 

The coarse pores and rough appearance frequently found 



THE SKIN. 91 

with muddy complexions will in nearly every instance yield 
speedily to the methods described, thus making the appear- 
ance far more refined, for no woman can appear to good ad- 
vantage if the complexion does not bear inspection. 



CHAPTER XI. 

SCALY, DRY AND FLABBY SKINS. - 

Fortunately for the majority of womankind, there are 
comparatively few who are troubled with abnormally dry 
or rough skins. In a few instances this trouble has ap- 
peared in every member of a family, and from infancy, upon 
any exposure to the air, the skin would immediately look 
as though some strong irritant had been applied. Tiny 
scales would flake off in great profusion and the skin appear 
tight and drawn, with hundreds of tiny lines covering the 
surface as though acting the part of forerunners for 
wrinkles. A number of people have acquired this tendency 
after a severe nervous strain or upon recovering from an 
illness. 

The face frequently burns and smarts and when washed 
becomes red and inflamed, any application of soap making 
the condition much worse. No powder can be applied to 
protect the face, and even the slightest exposure always 
means an increased amount of trouble; the cases seem 
hopeless indeed. 

The use of the automatic massage is in many instances 
absolutely impossible, while in others it may in time so 
harden the skin that the trouble becomes much less than 
before. 

When the skin is abnormally sensitive the following 
method will be found extremely beneficial. The face and 
neck may be coated well with lettuce cream, and then warm 
cloths applied, using them as warm as can be borne with 
comfort. This process may be continued until the flesh be- 
comes uniformly pink, when the superfluous creme may be 



THE SKIN. 93 

removed by drawing the softest of towels gently over the 
surface. Then an application of tissue food can be used 
and the regular finger massage may be given. 

Occasionally one finds a case in which the use of water 
at any time is actually impossible, as it produces a rough- 
ness immediately. In every instance such as this an oil must 
be used for cleansing the skin, instead of soap and water, 
and to get the best results it should be used as warm as pos- 
sible. 

This mixture has been found to be extremely beneficial : 
Six ounces of the finest almond oil, one ounce of spermaceti, 
one-half ounce of lanolin, and two ounces of witch hazel. It 
may be heated by immersing the wide-mouthed bottle in 
which it is kept in warm water until the mixture becomes 
liquid enough to spread well on cotton. Then apply and 
remove in a few moments in the usual manner. The mas- 
sage should follow, and the skin be rubbed thoroughly with 
the tissue food, following directions given for finger mas- 
sage. In order to protect the skin from the action of the 
air it should be well powdered before any exposure. 

Complexions of this description need constant care to 
keep them in good condition, and women who are so af- 
flicted should make up their minds to submit cheerfully 
to the inevitable in the shape of constant and frequent ap- 
plications of oils and skin foods in order to keep the skin 
smooth. The fact that other people use an application of 
this kind once a day or once in two days should be no guide 
to the work, for every woman must study her own needs and 
fulfill them according to the peculiarities of her complexion, 
regardless of what other people advise. 

FLABBY AND WITHERED SKINS. 

On many occasions young women have presented them- 



94 THE SKIN. 

selves for treatment with skins that looked as though they 
belonged to women of seventy. In nearly every instance the 
beginning of the trouble could be traced to some severe 
illness or protracted strain or nervous occupation. Return- 
ing health seemingly does not affect the appearance of the 
skin in such instances, and hence much work is necessary, 
especially in the line of tonic treatments. 

The use of the Electrolytic Massage is here most val- 
uable and should be used every day if possible, or the treat- 
ments may be arranged as near together as conditions per- 
mit. Salt will be used in the warm water followed by 
much finger massage and the use of the vibratile, while at 
least two bags of the cold water to which alum has been 
added will be found necessary for each treatment. In all 
cases of this description it is well to use the Faradic Cur- 
rent with the cold water and alum on account of the stimu- 
lating action it imparts to the skin. When the flabby condi- 
tion has resulted from the use of steaming or frequent 
applications of hot towels more work is necessary before 
the desired results can be obtained. In any event it will 
require at least six weeks' or two months' work to give 
the skin its normal appearance. 

In the meantime the diet and manner of living must be 
considered also. Cold sponge baths should be taken each 
morning; a regular course of exercise should be adopted 
and practiced and all manner of nourishing foods eaten, 
while pastry, sweets and other indigestible condiments must 
be strictly prohibited. 

Where one is compelled to do this work at home the 
same general rules may be followed with great success, and 
as nothing but sufficient practice is needed to make the use 
of the cup possible, no one need feel that her case is hope- 
less because she is debarred from the privilege of employ- 
ing an expert in this line. 



THE SKIN. 95 

The use of the galvanic current may be alternated with 
that of the Faradic if the patient desires, or it may be con- 
tinued to the close of the period. Although this treat- 
ment is mentioned particularly for younger people, it also 
does great things for those who are older and as a conse- 
quence many of the elderly women who have pride in their 
appearance take these treatments regularly, as the effect is 
so beneficial. 



CHAPTER XII. 

FRECKLES, TAN AND SUNBURN. 

The freckled maiden may have Titian hair and brilliant 
coloring and dewy eyes with long black lashes, but if her 
complexion is as spotted as the guinea lfen's her beauty 
is marred indeed. The pigment spots, as in the case of moth 
patches, are situated in the deeper layers of the skin, and 
are almost invariably made more pronounced by exposure 
to the sun and air. 

As a rule, those afflicted with freckles have unusually 
fine skins, and when free from these discolorations the com- 
plexions generally far outshine the ordinary type. In al- 
most every case most wonderful improvement may be made 
by adopting the best method of caring for the skin, and 
clinging to it until the freckles have vanished. The most 
difficult part to learn is that of constantly protecting the 
skin from the influence of the sun and air, as even two or 
three hours' exposure without the proper protection will 
almost invariably result in a fresh crop of brown spots. In 
some instances the effect of the heat and light, even when 
kept away by thicknesses of cloth, is sufficient to freckle 
the arms and neck. 

The treatment of these cases, whether the freckles are 
light or dark, is almost invariably the same and is best per- 
formed in the following manner : After thoroughly cleans- 
ing the skin with the water massage a mask may be cut out 
of a layer of absorbent cotton and thoroughly soaked in a 
solution made by mixing equal parts of peroxide of hydro- 
gen and lemon juice. If the skin is extremely sensitive and 
commences to burn immediately and looks blotched the mask 



THE SKIN. 97 

should be removed instantly and the water again used. Then 
the massage may be given, using the tissue food if the face 
is extremely tender and the whitening creme if it is not. 
The treatment is finished by powdering the face well. If 
the progress seems too slow after the first few treatments 
the use of the galvanic current with the positive electrode 
saturated in the bleaching lotion may be employed, using 
the current for fifteen minutes each time. 

Work at home consists in using a mild soap each night 
with warm water, and then massaging well with whitening 
creme before retiring. In the morning nothing but cold 
water should be used and no soaps should be employed at 
this time. Immediately after drying the skin, the bleaching 
lotion may be employed by using a small sponge and thor- 
oughly saturating it before applying. If the lotion is too 
severe it may be diluted as required by pouring out a small 
quantity and adding the same amount of water to it. The 
friction at night by means of massage with the finger tips 
is most important and should not be discontinued until the 
freckles have entirely disappeared. Even then the whitening 
creme should at least be employed alternately with a skin 
food, using one or the other each night, and always applying 
a good powder before exposure to the air. 

The most obstinate cases of freckles can always be made 
much lighter by this process while ordinary varieties may be 
cured in a very short time. Of course, severe or dark freckles 
require much more work and it is because of them that 
so many women insist upon undergoing the "peeling proc- 
ess" each year. It is not necessary to remove the cuticle, 
as so many declare, though to thoroughly bleach the skin 
may, of course, irritate it to some extent. Those who 
wish to attempt it may use the articles advised and the 
galvanic treatment as well, discontinuing the use of the lo- 



98 THE SKIN. 

tion when the face becomes decidedly red. No freckles can 
be kept in subjection without work. Those who have them 
must remember that this tendency is inborn and must be 
watched and guarded against the same as other blemishes of 
this kind. In some instances, as people grow older, this in- 
clination or tendency seems less marked, and frequently the 
skin becomes free from the spots, from no particular reason. 
The majority of sufferers, however, need to use constant 
care to prevent acquiring more freckles as well as to aid in 
getting rid of the old ones. In all of this work the habit of 
protecting the skin is the most important and care should be 
taken to avoid washing the face either just before or just 
after exposure to the air. The best manner to use a powder 
is to apply it after a skin food has been rubbed in well, and 
in order to make it effective care must be taken to see that 
the powder is one that will cling to the skin well. No am- 
bitious woman will be deterred from this work by the fact 
that she must be constant in her attentions, for she knows 
all good results require much and untiring application. 

TAN. 

The bronze coloring has been so popular for the past 
few years that some of the faddists have spent much time 
in acquiring a coating, that cost many dollars to remove. 
The desire to look weather-worn can usually be easily ac- 
complished, for few people need more encouragement than 
an occasional outing on the river or driving through the 
country with no protection to the skin in the way of head 
covering or even a coat of powder. Once obtained it is ex- 
tremely difficult to remove, and very frequently a thorough 
bleaching must be undergone before the brown shades van- 
ish sufficiently to make the face presentable if light colors 
are to be worn. 



THE SKIN. 99 

That there is no necessity for acquiring this coloring 
may be seen by the scores of enthusiasts who spend much 
time on the golf links or boating with none of the added 
tints so undesirable in the majority of cases. The care of 
the skin necessary in preventing such complications is prac- 
tically the same as in freckles, and creams and powders 
must be used liberally as directed if the skin is to be kept 
free from defects. It is well to avoid the use of much water 
on the skin when out in the air a great deal, using a cleans- 
ing creme of some kind instead of water. The whitening 
creme should be used religiously each night and the Creme 
Celeste may be employed as a sort of skin food before using 
the powder, or the tissue food may be used for that pur- 
pose. If one is desirous of trying a few of the home-made 
concoctions, the strawberry paste and cream may be ap- 
plied for the purpose of removing the tan. The recipes ap- 
pear in the chapter on the making of creams, and are ex- 
tremely effective when carefully prepared. 

SUNBURN. 

Sunburn is generally dreaded by those who suffer from 
it, not only because it is particularly unbecoming, but also 
on account of the actual discomfort and pain suffered by 
those unfortunate enough to be afflicted. In reality, there 
are few things easier to avoid than this very trouble, as 
hundreds of people who have become enlightened can cheer- 
fully testify. The same general rules applying to the pro- 
tection of the face in preventing tan and freckles also ap- 
ply here. Where there is evinced a decided tendency to burn 
on the slightest exposure, it is best to use no water upon 
the face for days at a time, 'instead using the cleansing 
creme during the day and the tissue food or Creme Celeste 
at night. If much time is spent upon the water, the care 



ofCL 



100 THE SKIN. 

should be redoubled, as it seems particularly difficult to 
avoid burning when subjected to the strong glare of the 
sun, and the reflection back from the water. 

If one has been unfortunate enough to incur a severe 
burn the treatment is simple, and consists of applying the 
most soothing- ointments until the skin is again in a normal 
condition. A very pleasing mixture, called the Traveler's 
Comfort, may be made by adding to six ounces of almond 
oil one of lanoline, two of spermaceti, one of white wax 
and one drachm of Balsam of Peru. Perfume as desired 
and use each night for massaging the skin and before ap- 
plying powder. If it is impossible to obtain any of the 
articles mentioned, it may be remembered that any good cold 
cream or pure oil may be used. If almond oil is not to be 
secured, olive oil may be applied, and if in an emergency 
the powder has been lost or mislaid the best substitute is 
found in pure household cornstarch. This simple remedy 
dusted on inflamed surfaces proves to be very soothing and 
will greatly assist in the work of reducing the inflamma- 
tion. The warm oil mixture under the treatment of scaly 
skins may also be used for cleansing the face during the 
day, though the other articles are usually amply sufficient 
for any case. Properly managed, the most sensitive skin 
may be kept from burning, no matter how great the ex- 
posure may be. The exceptions to this statement are found 
only where, either from indolence or ignorance, sufficient 
care has not been taken to insure a thorough protection 
from the sun. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

THE USE OF POWDER. 

For some mysterious reason women who are otherwise 
well informed have exhibited a most unreasonable preju- 
dice against the use of powder. They gaze upon the inno- 
cent puff with horror and flee from the attractively labeled 
box containing this cosmetic as though it were also marked 
"dangerous/' When some of these fastidious souls are ques- 
tioned as to a good substitute, the answer is almost invar- 
iably the same and one hears talcum recommended vigorous- 
ly. A distinction without a difference and one that makes 
the average woman chuckle, for she has tried the same 
thing and knows that talcum as a protection is useless. 

If the antiquity of the custom could make it more com- 
mendable nothing more would be needed, for the ancient 
volumes are filled with references to the use of cosmetics, 
and specially to those used for the purpose of concealing im- 
perfections of the skin. In fact, Job's third daughter was 
named Keren-Happuch, meaning horn of paint (Job. 42: 
14), indicating rather plainly that there must have been 
some degree of favor shown this particular cosmetic in one 
household. 

Returning to more modern times, it is refreshing to 
learn that nearly all men have been wise enough to realize 
how necessary the use of powder is as a protection to the 
skin, and as a consequence the barbers insist upon powder- 
ing the faces of their customers immediately after shaving 
them, thus avoiding the dagger of irritation from the sun 
or air. For the purpose of protection the powder must be 
of a variety that will adhere well and smoothly, otherwise 



102 THE SKIN. 

the face will appear scaly and rough and give the impres- 
sion of being coated with the material used. 

A pure vegetable powder is thus in great demand, for, in 
addition to the office of protection, the fastidious woman in- 
sists that it shall possess the very desirable quality of harm- 
lessness, and this is not possible when any of the well-known 
heavy, white mineral substances are employed. Rice flour, 
though much quoted, is rarely used, as it is difficult to pro- 
cure, and hence either one of the many starches made from 
corn, wheat or beans is usually employed as a basis for a 
mixture of this kind. The ideal powder cannot be made by 
the amateur or the ordinary manufacturer, as the process is 
so complicated that it requires a most elaborate outfit to 
produce the cosmetic properly, as in the many different 
siftings not only many varieties of bolting cloth and the 
employment of people who understand the work, but also 
the presence of a competent chemist as well. Of course, 
there are many formulae extolled, but the one in greatest 
favor demands the use of the finest and purest almond pow- 
der, orris powder, wheat starch and rice starch, sifted 
through bolting cloth several times, then tinted and per^ 
fumed and blended with a most delicate oil into a mixture 
not only soft and fine, but also possessing the quality of 
sticking on the skin as well. The sifting process is what 
really makes the powder — making a work much beyond 
the reach of the ambitious amateur owing to the expense 
of the different grades of bolting cloth required, varying 
from the ordinary mesh to the very finest. It is said that the 
best powder is sifted at least seven times. The tinting, too, 
is a matter of some consequence, and as there is never a skin 
that is positively white, the well-made powder should as 
closely as possible simulate the colors observed. The ap- 
plication of a pure, white powder to the ordinary skin 



THE SKIN. 103 

makes it look as though it were coated with something like 
whitewash, the dark-colored portions showing through in a 
bluish shade, presenting a most unnatural appearance. The 
color most popular for use on all skin is that termed "flesh" 
and is made by adding traces of carmine, or carmine and 
ochre to the white materials until a peculiar chamois tint is 
produced. 

Powder should always be applied before venturing into 
the air, and especially when about to embark upon a boating, 
driving or any other expedition. The most practical man- 
ner of applying it is to first rub on some skin food and 
after a few moments remove all the oil that may be found 
upon the skin, then dust on the powder with a soft bit of 
cotton cloth, and remove all that does not cling well by 
rubbing a dry cloth over the face. In this manner the 
roughness, burning and irritation generally following upon 
exposure to the sun may be avoided and the skin kept 
smooth and fresh. Coats of tan are much more easily ac- 
quired than lost, and the girl who values her appearance 
will endeavor to preserve the most precious of possessions — 
a good complexion — while protecting a poor one from fur- 
ther defects. 

A pleasing and fragrant mixture that may be used after 
the bath for the purpose of preventing the disagreeable 
odor from perspiration from being noticed is made by mix- 
ing these ingredients together : 

POWDER FOR USE AFTER BATHING. 

Powdered orris root 45 

Boracic acid (powdered) 1 § 

Sub-nitrate bismuth I § 

Corn starch 4 o 

Those who are anxious to try mixing powder that, 
though not purely vegetable, is still uninjurious, .may try 



104 THE SKIN. 

the following recipe, said to have belonged to a collection 
made by the famous Catherine De Medici, who was almost 
as much envied for her knowledge of the cosmetic art as 
she was hated for her attempts to rid the world of those 
she xlisliked : 

Best Venetian talc 4 g 

Sulphate barium 5 5 

Corn starch 4 § 

Rice flour 2 § 

Sift all together through a coarse sieve, several times, 
so that the lumps in the barium sulphate may be broken up. 
Then add one-half ounce of lanolin and one ounce of almond 
oil and sift again. Add to these ingredients sufficient car- 
mine and ochre to make the tint a soft tan and sift through 
three grades of bolting cloth before adding the perfume, 
which may be either oil of rose, nerolli or any other odor 
desired. The next four sittings will be necessary in order 
to make the powder fine enough to use on the face. 

A powder for which there is much demand is that made 
by mixing one of these strongly white ingredients with water 
and thus making a so-called "liquid powder." Although 
useful for the neck and arms when unsightly blotches or 
redness prevent making a good appearance, the application 
upon the face should be made most sparingly lest the skin 
be made dry and scaly. 

LIQUID COSMETIC. 

Oxide of zinc 1 5 

Barium sulphate 1 5 

Glycerine 1 3 

Alcohol 1 5 

Water 6 § 

Cologne Yz 3 



THE SKIN. 105 

Mix thoroughly and strain through cotton or fine bolt- 
ing cloth. Keep in a tightly corked bottle and apply with 
a sponge when required. 

Equal in importance to the proper application of the 
powder is the manner of removing it, and if the skin is to 
be kept in a thoroughly fine condition the' powder must 
positively be removed by a thorough cleansing each night. 
The most harmless substances may cause a great deal of 
trouble unless this precaution is observed. When traveling, 
a cleansing creme will remove the dust and the powder 
quite as effectively as soap and water. On other occasions 
the ordinary means may be employed. The respect with 
which this cosmetic is held by some people may well be 
estimated by the very general use it enjoys, for it is said of 
the modern maid that — 

She may live without love, never owning a heart, 
She may live without music, and drama and art ; 
She may live without having a sin to confess, 
With a calm disregard for new hats or a dress ; 
She may live without rarebit or lobster or chowder, 
But where is the maid who can live without powder? 



CHAPTER XIV. 

THE ART OF BATHING. 

To the ordinary mortal the bath is a matter of routine, 
to be taken at regular intervals for the purpose of cleansing 
the body. That it may have far-reaching results in the way 
of relieving certain conditions or of remedying grave de- 
fects of the skin, many are unwilling to believe. However, 
it is not necessary to convert, for just a little insistence in 
the way of prescribing the bath will soon bear speedy re- 
sults. 

The educated bather, and by that is meant the woman 
who understands just what benefits may be derived from 
the proper use of the bath, has her daily plunge into luke- 
warm water, followed by the cold sponge. In addition to 
this there is the warm bath, taken at least twice a week, at 
a temperature sufficiently high to induce a vigorous perspira- 
tion. If possible, one of these baths should be either a Rus- 
sian or Turkish bath, followed by massage given by an 
experienced operator. The results of this system of bathing 
may be seen in the clear skin and youthful appearance of 
the devotee to cleanliness. Her figure, too, bears testi- 
mony to the fact that rarely does superfluous flesh persist 
when the pores are kept free from obstructions and the body 
maintained in an absolutely active condition. 

Of course, there are numerous methods of taking baths 
and many improvements on the plain bath, all of which will 
be considered in order of importance. The first considera- 
tion is naturally the kind of water that must be used for 
the purpose. If this is extremely hard, making the skin 
feel peculiarly sensitive and irritated afterward, it will be 



THE SKIN. 107 

well to make use of the following formulae, mixing the in- 
gredients and keeping a large supply on hand constantly, 
so that the effort may be systematically conducted : Borax, 
one pound ; aromatic spirits of ammonia, one pound ; soda, 
one pound. Mix together and keep in a mason fruit jar, 
using one cup of the mixture for the ordinary tub bath. 
Then in lieu of a washcloth nothing can be better, both for 
the effect on the skin and for the pleasure of using it, than 
the bran mitten. This is made by cutting out a piece of 
cheesecloth into a six-inch square. These squares may then 
be stitched together, leaving only a small opening at one 
end in which to put the bran. When filled comfortably — 
that is, just enough to make the mitten about three-quarters 
of an inch in thickness — the opening may be closed and the 
mitten is ready for use. The benefit from the bran is sup- 
posed to come from the gluten in it, which strengthens and 
softens the tissues. The warm water, of course, assists in 
this process. In a bath of this kind no soap is necessary 
to assist in the cleaning process, as the bran is sufficient. 
If the skin is at all sensitive after leaving the bath, showing 
a tendency to peel and flake off, nothing can be better to use 
for anointing the entire body than the following prepara- 
tion, made easily by observing the directions : 

Gum tragacanth i o 

Borax i § 

Glycerine 2 § 

Alcohol 25 

Water enough to make a thick jelly. 

Powdered orris root 2 § 

Dissolve the gum tragacanth in enough water to make 
it thoroughly transparent and then add the glycerine and 
alcohol. More water may then be added as necessary, using 
the orris powder last of all. This mixture is generally 



108 THE SKIN. 

named jelly of violets and has the advantage of drying in 
almost immediately, thus obviating all danger of producing 
a sticky feeling. In addition to the use of this jelly, after 
bathing it is often necessary to anoint the body with a good 
creme before entering the bath. In this case Creme Celeste 
will be found extremely beneficial. 

People troubled with eruptive diseases of the skin or 
obstinate comedones are much benefited by the sulphur 
baths. When it is impossible to take baths of this kind 
excepting at home, the method may be made extremely easy 
by purchasing a bottle of the liquid sulphume. There is said 
to be enough in one of these bottles for eight baths. The 
best way to use this substance is to pour the amount re- 
quired into the water that is about body-temperature, and 
then after entering the bath, have a sheet drawn over the 
tub and up closely around the neck of the bather. The 
warm water may then be added until the bath is as hot as 
can be taken with any comfort. This will usually induce 
a copious perspiration. Before entering a sulphur bath, the 
face and neck should be carefully washed with clear, warm 
water, and after leaving the bath the same precaution should 
be observed. 

Nervous temperaments are wonderfully benefited by 
means of the electric bath, and so great is said to be the 
curative effects of these baths that in many instances most 
stubborn cases have been improved rapidly by the prop- 
er amount of bathing. This fact should be of especial 
interest to the many who are afflicted with the brown dis- 
coloration termed "moth patch," for it is said that many 
of these most obstinate and disfiguring spots may be much 
assisted by this process. 

When the effect of friction is desired from the use of 
bran baths, this may be obtained by adding a peck of the 




A Convenient Faradic Bath Apparatus. 

Diagram showing Bath Tub with Movable Electrodes connected to Switch Board. 
A maximum of convenience and efficiency at a minimum of expense. 

It may be used in any bath room in connection with any porcelain 
or porcelain lined iron tub, the movable bath tub electrodes being 
placed in any desired position on opposite sides or ends of the tub, 
thus permitting application of the current to any portion of the body 
of the patient. 




HO THE SKIN. 

ordinary bran to the warm bath, and rubbing the body 
vigorously with the hands. Some people prefer to use oat 
meal in the bath, claiming that the effect is even better, while 
still others assert that common rock salt added to the water 
in large quantities and then used to produce a decided glow 
is the best of all. Of course, the difference in action be- 
tween salt and a substance containing gluten is too great to 
admit of any comparison. Hence those who prefer salt 
baths may use them for the purpose of stimulation, but not 
with the idea of softening the skin. 

The temperature at which the water should be used may 
be regulated according to the effect desired. In baths near 
the body temperature the perspiration ceases, no sweat is 
secreted, but instead the fluid generally excreted is retained 
in the skin. Warm baths have a relaxing" effect. They 
dilate the blood-vessels and cause an abundant excretion 
of fluid. Cold baths harden the skin and have much in- 
fluence in accustoming one to low temperature, but do not 
cleanse the skin to any extent, while in addition they pro- 
duce a shock not either agreeable or safe for those of 
weakened constitutions. A safe rule to adopt in order to 
avoid the danger of catching cold, or of becoming at all 
weakened by warm baths, is that of using a cold sponge 
immediately afterward, thus uniting the methods in a way 
that is sure to be beneficial. 

In connection with bathing, the use of the best soap 
is a matter of much importance. And, strange as it may 
seem, not one person in a hundred seems to realize what a 
good soap really is. The majority of people long for soaps 
producing great quantities of lather. Others insist upon 
finely perfumed articles and pay exorbitant prices for dain- 
tily scented packages. Wise people either cling to the mild 
and pure imported castile or use a paste soap that is nearly 
neutral in reaction. 



THE SKIN. m 

The harm done by some of these strongly alkaline soaps 
can hardly be overestimated. They not only induce a pre- 
maturely aged appearance of the skin by extracting the fat 
from sebaceous glands and tissues, but also produce more 
or less deep cauterizations. Dry or scaly skins are espe ■ 
cially injured by the use of such soaps, while people in- 
clined to wrinkle easily may, upon observation, notice that 
each application of a soap of this description is followed 
by the appearance of numerous small lines that indicate 
the coming of the deeper creases. 

The best of all soaps is the one that can cleanse with- 
out injury. It should be nearly neutral in reaction, produce 
but a little lather, and leave the flesh feeling soft and smooth 
instead of dry and drawn. When the ordinary castile does 
not suffice, paste soap should be used by rubbing it up with 
warm water into a soft lather. No soap should be used 
oftener than once a day, and many skins will not tolerate 
the use of the mildest of preparations, even as often as this, 
so in the use of this cleansing agent as in other things, 
discretion will be found a very good aid. 



CHAPTER XV. 

THE SUBJECT OF STERILIZING INSTRUMENTS. 

The masseuse who would do good work must not only 
understand how to manipulate the muscles, open and cleanse 
pustules and coax the signs of age away, but she must also 
learn and practice how to thoroughly sterilize her instru- 
ments for this work. 

The necessity for this knowledge is so great that it is 
strange in this age of universal information to find so many 
who neither seem to know nor care anything about this 
extremely important subject. Not only must the instru- 
ments themselves be thoroughly cleansed, but the hands of 
the masseuse must also be taken into account and rendered 
as harmless as possible. Soap and water alone are not 
sufficiently powerful to really clean any hand, and especially 
to make the finger-nails properly free from germs. In 
every instance there must be used, not only these ordinary 
agents, but also something stronger, such as either the 
1-2000 per cent of mercuric chloride, as advocated in many 
hospitals, or the three per cent formalin solution used effect- 
ively and very generally for skin w r ork. 

The cleansing or sterilizing of instruments may be ac- 
complished by two methods, either by boiling for a few mo- 
ments in water to which one per cent of soda has been 
added, or by immersing in a ten per cent solution of forma- 
lin. It is a well-known fact that heat destroys nearly all 
germs very effectively, while chemicals are more or less 
limited in their action, though, of course, effective in many 
cases. The careful masseuse should be provided with a 
ten per cent solution of formalin and water, and after 



THE SKIN. 113 

using an instrument should cleanse it with water and alco- 
hol, and then allow it to remain in this solution for a few 
moments ; for instance, there should be a little flat enameled 
dish used for this purpose, and into this the formalin solu- 
tion may be poured, using a fresh supply, of course, for 
each patient, and always afterward rinsing the instrument 
off with clear hot water. If the boiling process of steriliza- 
tion is used, the instrument may be cleansed first and then 
subjected to the action of the boiling water for, say, four 
or five minutes. This does not mean water from a tap that 
is extremely warm, but really boiling water, such as may 
be obtained by placing the tiny dish over a flame and allow- 
ing the water to boil vigorously. This process of steriliza- 
tion must extend to everything used, the tiny cup of the 
automatic message, the curettes, and the mallets and rollers 
used for massage. These last-named articles may perhaps 
better be immersed in the formalin solution, as the boiling 
water is not the thing for hard rubber or ivory, while the 
steel instruments may be subjected to the boiling. 

The hands of the operator should be carefully cleansed 
before she touches the face of the patient, and this is to be 
done by scrubbing well with soap and water and then 
rinsing in either the bichloride or formalin solution. The 
skin is always covered with a multitude of germs, some of 
them entirely harmless; others, undoubtedly, germs of dis- 
ease; any of them well calculated to make much mischief 
at the first provocation, or when they can gain an entrance 
into the skin, as through an incision. Hence before open- 
ing any pustules or removing blackheads the skin should be 
washed with an antiseptic solution of formalin. In order to 
prevent irritation this solution may be made by using dis- 
tilled water and adding a little glycerine, thus : Distilled 
water, 48 ounces; glycerine, y 2 ounce; and formalin, 1^ 



114 THE SKIN. 

ounces. This solution may be poured on to the bit of cot- 
ton, and then used for washing and cleansing the face. 
Then the pimples may be opened with the instruments pre- 
viously sterilized, and the peroxide of hydrogen used to 
destroy the elements upon which the germs multiply, though 
of course this liquid may be of some use in destroying 
germs as well. The acne cream, to be used for massage, 
is an ointment containing an antiseptic which may by ab- 
sorption tend to destroy the germs contained in the pus- 
tules, and thus prevent recurrences ; hence the necessity foi 
deep massage after the contents of these spots have been 
removed. 

In using any creme, it is well to take the precaution of 
using from a small amount, rather than from large por- 
tions that may be made a breeding-place for the multipli- 
cation of germs by the careless masseuse who places her 
fingers from the face to the jar, and back again, times in- 
numerable. The ordinary skin food is rarely possessed oi 
any germicidal power and may thus be made a medium 
of much danger. 

Hence care should be taken to see that the cremes are 
used from small jars, and renewed daily, or oftener if neces- 
sary, to invariably use bits of absorbent cotton for remov- 
ing the creme and applying to the face, and if it has been 
impossible to get enough the first time, to employ a fresh 
bit of cotton each time the creme is applied to the skin. 
In applying powder this same precaution should be ob- 
served, and the powder should be sifted on to the fresh bit 
of cotton used for each patient, instead of dipping the cot- 
ton into the box. 

Instruments should be wrapped in cotton to protect the 
points and edges and kept away out of sight, not lying 
where dust and floating impurities in the air may cover 



THE SKIN. 115 

them, but in some good case or drawer, where they will 
be free from more than the ordinary amount of dust. The 
cotton used should be kept in a metallic receptacle or drawer 
and not exposed to the air and dust, and the supply of towels 
or articles used should always be kept out of sight as much 
as possible, so that the paraphernalia may be kept fresh and 
attractive. 

So with the solution and jars used, the labels and out- 
ward appearance must be attractive. There is no excuse for 
carelessness in this respect. The appearance of any room 
for the purpose of skin treatment should be as scrupulously 
neat and attractive as possible. Every patient has a right 
to demand that all possible effort be made to keep the 
articles used upon her face and hands absolutely free from 
any danger of infecting her. The competent masseuse will 
need no urging to devote the time necessary to this work. 

Those who read these lines feeling that such precautions 
are unnecessary will do well to remember that each year 
is raising the standard ; and requirements for these respon- 
sible positions are consequently becoming more rigid. Op- 
erators who get the best results will naturally be the most 
popular, and will obtain equally pleasing returns financially. 

The skillful operator occupies a prominent place in the 
lives of women, for she means to them a powerful aid in 
preserving their complexions, increasing their period of 
enjoyment in proportion to the youthful appearance they 
are able to present. Many women are really young as 
long as they appear to be, and they dread the encroach- 
ments of age not so much because of the fear of losing their 
beauty, but more on account of the dread of the loss of af- 
fection and attention they think will follow as their ability to 
attract and please decreases. 

It is especially with the hope of impressing upon all 



116 THE SKIN. 

women in this business the necessity for absolute honesty 
that these lines have been written. The more generally 
full knowledge on this subject is disseminated, the better 
for investigators, for then there will be fewer despondent 
and discouraged souls in this world, and more who are 
happy and contented. 

The woman who makes a failure in this work of beauti- 
fying others has usually no one to blame but herself, for 
in every community there are scores of women absolutely 
hungering for an opportunity of learning how they may 
best be improved. If a masseuse is careless of her appear- 
ance and has not tried to remove in herself the defects she 
claims to cure in others she can not hope to be considered 
particularly desirable. Another fault she may possess is 
that of gossiping with one patient about the defects of 
another. This is most disastrous and inevitably means ruin. 
Finally she must remember that a certain amount of public- 
ity is desirable and that cards, printed matter and a judicious 
amount of advertising are good investments, not a waste 
of money. 

We have known of no failures among women who were 
well-grounded in their work, punctual in keeping their 
appointments, scrupulously neat in appearance, discreet in 
conversation and industrious. In no other field is there 
found so great an opening as in this special line to day, for 
while there are very many people who claim to do the 
work, not one in a hundred is really well enough informed 
to do as she should, and hence there is ever an opportunity 
for the woman who is wise enough to realize this fact and 
learn her work thoroughly. 

The ideal masseuse possesses a certain amount of per- 
sonal magnetism that makes her presence restful. She 
must be alert to every possibility of improvement and 



THE SKIN. 117 

strong enough to consider every episode of a disappoint- 
ing nature a spur to further effort rather than a draw- 
back to future progress. Each day will bring. to her fresh 
material for experiment and study, and if she truly loves 
her calling, she will find that her enthusiasm grows as she 
progresses into a full realization of the wonderful possi- 
bilities within her reach. The demand for honest, earnest 
work has never been so great as it is now, and the one who 
enters into her vocation with the determination to put 
heart and soul into her labors may rest assured that she 
will reap a well merited success. 

"Let your light so shine that others may see your good 
work." 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE USE OF ELECTRICITY. 

The importance of the use of electricity in facial work 
can hardly be overestimated. This wonderful force can be 
utilized in so many ways for conditions so dissimilar that 
many people have been deterred from attempting to use it 
at all, feeling that the course of study necessary would be 
far beyond their means. Books of instruction possessed no 
attraction for those who would learn at home, as the terms 
used to describe the various peculiarities have been too 
complicated for the ordinary students. 

Ill describing the use of electricity as of service to the 
worker who wishes to benefit her fellow being by removing 
disfiguring moles, hairy growths or bleach the skin by 
means of cataphoresis, care has been taken to use only the 
simplest expressions and to explain as clearly as possible 
the most practical method of obtaining the desired effect. 
The use of the electric current' should be understood by 
every one who attempts to do good work in massage or scalp 
treatment, for by it results of the most pleasing nature are 
obtained. 

In view of the many misapprehensions regarding this 
universal remedy, it may be well to explain by means of an 
experiment familiar to all how easily this current can be 
produced. When a person walks rapidly over a woolen 
carpet or shuffles the feet quickly over any substance of this 
kind, and then touches a dry, stationary object or the dry 
skin of another person, a spark results, passing between 
the two points of contact. The friction upon the carpet 
charges the body with one kind of electricity, while the 
stationary object is charged with the opposite kind. 



THE SKIN. 119 

This current may also be produced in other manners, 
and as it is necessary to have it furnished continuously, as 
well as to provide means to convey it from this point in a 
uniform way by a proper medium, experiment has resulted 
in the invention of batteries. In these the current is either 
caused by the immersion of certain metals in fluid or by 
the contact of certain metals in which the chemical changes 
resulting from union are powerful enough to create an 
electrical disturbance that can be utilized for the purpose 
of treatment, and from whence it may be conveyed by means 
of the conducting cords/ In the experiment mentioned the 
body from which the electric spark originated would repre- 
sent the positive pole, while that to which it was directed 
would be the negative. 

*>p~_ The simplest form of galvanic cell 

*[ consists of two pieces of dissimilar 

C |||p^^||6^ metals, partially immersed in diluted 

^^B^JHa sulphuric acid. The illustration shows 

llilMli a single galvanic cell composed of 

^^jifflBBH I zinc and carbon plates. When these 

IMl piJ|jjlM^l] p plates are insulated from each other 

there is no action betweed them; but 
when they be connected by a wire, chemical action at 
once begins at the surface of the zinc, electricity is generat- 
ed, which passes across the liquid to the carbon. The zinc 
is known as the negative element and the carbon as the 
positive element. The current of electricity passes through 
the fluid from the zinc to the carbon and from the carbon 
passes along the wire back to the zinc, thus completing the 
circuit. The current generated in the battery cell always 
takes this direction, hence the current from the carbon pole 
is always positive and the current from the zinc pole is 
always negative. If this fact is kept well in mind there 



120 THE SKIN. 

need never be any doubt or fear about using either the posi- 
tive or the negative, whichever may be desired or indicated 
as necessary in any particular treatment. 

When six cells or twelve cells are used the current is 
continuous from the zinc of the last cell of the series, wheth- 
er it be six or twelve, through the fluid to the carbon, and 
by means of the wire to the zinc of the next cell, and so on 
through the entire series, finally emerging from the carbon 
of the first cell through the copper wire back to the zinc of 
the last cell, six or twelve, as the case may be. Now if the 
copper wire connecting carbon of cell "one" with the zinc 
of cell "twelve" be cut and a living body (the patient) be 
placed in the circuit, the patient then becomes a part of the 
circuit; if the right hand is holding the wire from the 
carbon, then the positive current is entering the body 
through the right hand and the negative current is passing 
out of the body through the left hand and back through the 
wire to the battery. Or, as in practice, if the sponge or 
inert pole is connected with the wire or conducting cord 
from the carbon and the needle or active pole is connected 
with the conducting cord from the zinc, then the needle be- 
comes the negative pole and is properly connected for nega- 
tive electrolysis. 

The quantity of current from one cell is as great as the 
quantity from six or twelve cells ; but the penetrating power 
is increased by each additional cell; and just as we add 
two or four or six horses to overcome the resistance of mud 
or hill or heavy weight of load, so we add two or three or 
six or twelve cells to overcome the resistance of the human 
body and secure sufficient force or push (electro-motive 
force — E. M. F.) to force the current through the resistance 
interposed. 

For practical work a good battery is necessary, and 



THE SKIN. 



121 



as there are many forms advocated, it may be well to state 
the points to be considered. In all work of this kind it is 
not only necessary to secure a continuous current, but also 
to have it as painless as possible. 




The operator who has wished to own a portable dry 
cell battery combining the Faradic and Galvanic current 
has been unable to find anything of the kind until recently 
when the machine illustrated on this page was brought 
out. In this, twelve cells are used for the Galvanic work 
and two are allowed for the Faradic. It is so constructed 



122 THE SKIN. 

that either portion may be repaired or changed without 
disturbing the other, while the aid of a small switch circle 
makes the increase or decrease of active cells an easy mat- 
ter. For a beginner this battery will be especially good, 
for while it is quite all that can be desired for all work of 
this kind, it is also so simply constructed that the most 
diffident novice will be able to understand and use it success- 
fullv after carefullv heeding the directions. 

The cost of re-charging this battery is but trifling, and 
as with hard usage the cells last for six months, while w r ith 
average use they will be good for at least eight, it can easily 
be seen that the battery will but seldom be out of working 
order, and at such times the delay will only be of a short 
duration, as the work of replacing the cells is simple indeed. 
As all cells either wet or dry, are practically of the same 
strength in the beginning, the same rules that have been 
given for the use of the other battery will apply in this, 
and as a rule four cells will be found all that will be neces- 
sary to use in the average treatment at first, although six 
and seven and even eight will usually have to be added 
gradually in the treatment of moles or warty growths, while 
ten and twelve may be used in giving the electrolytic mas- 
sage. 

For office work, or where. one uses a battery constantly, 
and can secure the direct dynamo current, a wall plate is most 
desirable. The great advantage in the use of this battery 
lies in the fact that it is always ready for work, never gets 
out of order, and provides a current that may be used every 
hour of the day with practically no deviation in strength. 
This battery also furnishes a current that may be used for 
any kind of treatment from the light work necessary in all 
treatment of facial blemishes to the heavier currents custom- 
ary where disorders of the system have to be considered. 



THE SKIN. 



123 



Where one desires to use simply the Galvanic current, the 
form of plate illustrated below, embracing Rheostat and 
Milliampere meter only, is practical. 




ESS 
Galvanic Plate. 

On page 124 may be seen the combination of 
accessories for the two currents on one plate; this battery 
plate affords the most complete office equipment. The 
use of the Milliampere meter makes the work far more satis- 
factory in many ways, as by glancing at the meter one can 
at a glance see exactly how much current the patient is tak- 
ing. 

Ordinarily, for the removal of hair, treatment of moles 
and naevi and other work of this description, from one-third 
to one-half a milliampere will be all that the subject can 
tolerate, although for bleaching the skin or stimulating it by 
means of the ball electrode as much as one and one-half 
or two milliamperes may often be employed. There is but 
little danger at any time of using a current that is too strong 



124 



THE SKIN. 



as the patient speedily objects to anything that approaches 
pain and in this way, if in no other, the operator is able to 
avoid any difficulty. 

The wet-cell battery is always in demand, where condi- 
tions make it impossible to use either the dry-cell or the 
wall plate. 

In this form the current is produced by immersing the 
plates of zinc and carbon into a liquid called a bichromate 
solution. A small cup accompanying the battery shows 
just how much each cell requires and the compartments are 
filled accordingly. 



MCINTOSH 

CHICAGO- 




Combined Galvanic and Faradic Plate. 

The most useful form is that in which both the galvanic 
and Faradic current may be obtained from the same 
battery. 

The galvanic or constant current is always indicated in 
the work of destroying the various growths, while the 
Faradic or interrupted current is advocated for its stimu- 
lating effect in massage, scalp treatment or anything in 
which stimulation is considered necessary. 



THE SKIN. 



125 



The author has found that so great is the difference in 
the capacity of people for enduring the current that a bat- 
tery of twelve cells is the most practical for everyday use 
in the treatment of facial defects. In almost all cases 
at least four cells will be required, while for the removal 
of superfluous hair the number of cells varies with the size 
of the hair, and in work on moles and other treatments in 
which the galvanic current may be indicated, the number of 
cells necessary may be six, eight, or even ten or eleven. 
Hence the author has found the twelve-cell combined gal- 
vanic and Faradic battery to be not only the most practical, 
but also the most economical, and as the Faradic current is 
now so frequently used, it is really securing two batteries in 
one at an ordinary cost. 

In the use of electrolysis many points are to be consid- 




Mclntosh Galvanic and Faradic Battery. 

ered, not only regarding the peculiarities of temperament 
and sensibility, but also in respect to the work itself. The 
current that is painless to one may be unendurable to an- 
other. Different sections of the same face also vary in this 
respect, the region about the nose and mouth being particu- 
larly susceptible, while the middle of the cheeks and chin 
are usually operated upon with no difficulty. Another singu- 
larity is observed in the manner in which the same current 



126 THE SKIN. 

affects the same person on different days. For instance, in 
the work of removing moles, six cells may be used easily 
on Tuesday, and perhaps on Thursday only five can be tol- 
erated. Hence the careful operator will begin every treat- 
ment with a weak current to avoid the danger of administer- 
ing a shock. 

One of the most difficult phases encountered is not in 
the work of removing the blemishes, but in refusing to re- 
move many hairs or to work long on a mole at any one 
time. The patient frequently is so overjoyed at the pros- 
pect of improvement that she obstinately insists upon all 
necessary work being finished within a few days. The only 
recourse found is in the use of a firm refusal, not only for 
the sake of the patient, but also for the operator, as it is 
absolutely impossible for any one to work long at a time 
on anything so trying as the removal of superfluous hair and 
be satisfied with the results. One-half hour is quite suffi- 
cient to devote to any case at one time. Of course, there are 
instances where one, two and even three hours' work has 
been done, but the hairs have been prominent and widely 
separated and the operator has possessed unusually steady 
nerves. Then, too, the danger of producing a serious in- 
flammation must ever be considered, and this injury may 
easily be avoided by using the current in a conservative man- 
ner. 

Many questions are asked concerning scars, and of 
course there are instances cited where the disfiguring white 
marks were more of a blemish than the hair itself. Care and 
management will, however, almost invariably prevent any 
such catastrophe, for although destruction of tissue must 
result in a scar of some kind, the mark is so minute that only 
the closest investigation will reveal it when the proper meth- 
od has been used, and caution in using the needle for any 



THE SKIN. 127 

length of time in the same location has been observed. 
Then, too, there must be attention to the face immediately 
after the use of the needle in the way of applying ointments 
and dusting powder to allay the inflammation. 

In one instance where a growth fully as heavy as an 
ordinary beard was removed, there was manifested a ten- 
dency to intense inflammation. The parts festered, and it 
seemed impossible to proceed. The result, was that so little 
work could be done at a time that the patient became dis- 
couraged and declared she would employ a razor or a depila- 
tory. The experiment was then tried of massaging the face 
well after each use of the needle, using for the purpose a 
zinc ointment and dusting on zinc powder afterward. The 
patient was instructed not to touch the spots excepting in 
rubbing on ointment, and under no consideration to use soap 
or water or to remove the tiny crust that invariably forms 
after the use of the needle. The effect was most happy, for 
not only was the inflammation banished, but the entire 
growth was removed, without a scar. 

The question of the reappearance of hair is rather diffi- 
cult to answer. Given the ordinary case, the percentage of 
hairs returning should be less than five per cent. In some 
instances this is, of course, a small estimate, but in the 
main it is an average usually observed. Then, too, one can 
never be certain that the same hairs return. They may be 
others springing up in the same neighborhood, or they may 
be hairs that have been broken off and partly dislodged by 
means of depilatories, plasters or tweezers. Nearly every 
one who is so afflicted has trie;d some one of the many meth- 
ods advertised, before resorting to the electric needle for 
permanent relief. At any rate, no matter what may be the 
cause of the return, the remedy is easily used and the effect 
of work conducted for a sufficiently extended period is to 
permanently abolish the growth. 



128 THE SKIN. 

In cases where eruptions are complicated with the 
growth it is well to cure the eruption before attempting to 
remove the hair, unless there exists a chronic inflammation, 
such as found in Acne Rosacea, where the nose, chin and 
parts of the cheeks appear a wine color or bright red nearly 
all of the time, while all of the tiny blood vessels are greatly 
distended. In this condition the current may be used with 
benefit, for it will not only remove the hair, but will also 
reduce the existing inflammation. 

The work of removing superfluous hair is, of course, 
trying, but it is also remunerative, and as the demand for a 
knowledge of this process is continually growing, the mod- 
ern operator must at least have an understanding of this 
method. All necessary accessories should be obtained and 
used as directed. Each case should be studied and work 
done accordingly, bearing in mind always that a painstaking 
effort will ever produce excellent results. The experience 
of a few weeks will convince any bright woman that the 
field is not only a good one, uncrowded, but is also extremely 
interesting as w r ell as decidedly beneficial from a financial 
point of view. 

Before attempting to charge and use a zinc-carbon, 
bichromate, fluid battery the beginner will do well to heed 
the following directions: It is quite as necessary to know 
how to make the fluid and fill the cell as it is to make the 
proper connections and proceed with the work. Much diffi- 
culty may be avoided by sufficient care in mastering these 
preliminary details. 

The battery fluid is best made by means of the following 
directions. 

To make the battery fluid: IJ — Sulphuric acid (com- 
mercial), 3 fluid oz. ; powd. bichromate of soda, 3 oz. ; 
water, 16 fluid oz. ; bisulphate of mercury, 2 drachms. Dis- 



THE SKIN. 



129 



solve the bisulphate of mercury in the water ; then add the 
bichromate of soda. Slowly pour in the sulphuric acid and 
stir until the ingredients are dissolved, then allow the liquid 
to cool, as the mingling of the acid and water produces heat, 
and if the mixture is used when warm it injures the bat- 
tery. 

The bisulphate of mercury keeps the zincs well amalga- 
mated. 




Figure 1. 



Figure 2. 



Fig. I shows the hard rubber plate of a section (on the 
under surface of which is cemented a sheet of soft rub- 
ber). The binding posts which project through the 
hard and soft rubber screw into the brass piece holding 
the zinc and carbon couples. The rubber plate on which 
the couples are clamped projects over on one side enough 
to cover the cells when the zinc and carbon plates are placed 
in the drip cups. When the cells are not in use and the lid 
of the battery box is closed, it presses on the spring handle 
of the section (Fig. i) and holds the soft rubber firmly over 
the cells and drip cup. By this arrangement the hydrostat is 
made water-tight. 



130 THE SKIN. 

Fig. 2 shows a section of six cells and a drip cup made 
of one piece of hard vulcanized rubber. The drip cup is to 
receive the zinc and carbon couples when not in use. 

By the aid of a simple current selector any number of 
cells can be used. See cut. 

To use six galvanic cells lift section I and remove the 
elements from the drip cup ; carry forward and place them 
in the galvanic cells ; then connect one conducting cord with 
Pi and the other with X6 (all parts marked P are positive 
and X negative). 

To use twelve cells lift section 2 from the drip cup. move 
it forward near section 1 and place the elements in the gal- 
vanic cells : connect X6 with P7 by means of the horizontal 
bar and the conducting cords, one with Pi and the other 
with X12. 

How to Detect the Galvanic Current : Put one sponge. 
well wet. in the palm of the hand and let the other be held 
between the thumb and the first finger of the same hand. A 
slight pricking sensation will be experienced. Those onl\ 
accustomed to the induced or Faradic current will be disap- 
pointed to find the galvanic current causes only a slight 
pricking or burning sensation, or perhaps a slight dizziness 
when applied to the head. • A galvanic current that can 
scarcely be felt in the hand may be too strong to apply to 
the head or neck. Acute sensation or shock from the gal- 
vanic current is only experienced when the current is sud- 
denlv broken. 

The bifurcated or forked cord is for the purpose of pre- 
venting a shock while changing to a less or greater number 
of cells while using the galvanic current. For example: 
Suppose you are using seven cells. One of the bifurcated 
ends would be connected with cell No. 7 and the other end 
hanging loose. If you wish to use, say twelve cells, take 



THE SKIN. 



131 



up the loose end of the bifurcated cord and connect it with 
No. 12 before you pull the other end out from No. 7. Thus 
all shock is avoided in the change. The same method of 
procedure is necessary to prevent shock when reducing the 
number of cells in use. 

To use the Faradic section of the battery holding the coil 
lift the section marked O from the cell and drip cup, fill the 
large cell half full of battery fluid, reverse the section and 




Figure 3. 



Figure 4. 



place the elements in the large cell C and the battery will 
commence to work at once, which may be known by the 
buzzing of the rheotome. To obtain the primary current 
insert the tips of the conducting cord in posts P and N, on 
either side of "prim." To obtain the secondary current in- 
sert the cord tips in posts N and P on either side of "Sec." 
Either current can be made stronger by drawing out the 
shield in the coil. 

To connect the coil with one or more galvanic cells : In 
a case of emergency, like an attempt to resuscitate a person 
from drowning, where greater intensity is needed than one 



132 THE SKIN. 

cell will give, the coil can be connected with the galvanic 
cells of section i by means of the long, spiral wires, as fol- 
lows: Reverse the coil section, immerse the elements of 
section I and connect post A near the coil with post Pi on 
section i, and post B on coil with post 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, on 
section 1. 

Sometimes the inexperienced operator will say: "I have 
fluid made according to formula, but I cannot obtain a cur- 
rent even from twelve cells. When I immerse the elements 
in the fluid the liquid boils or froths and the battery gets 
hot, the zincs are rapidly eaten up, but I get no current/' 
When such conditions are observed it shows that the battery 
fluid is not made according to formula, but contains too 
much acid. When the battery fluid contains large excess 
of acid the zinc is rapidly destroyed, the fluid bubbles or boils 
and becomes hot. Hydrogen gas is generated, but no elec- 
tricity. The remedy in such a case is to add one-third to 
one-half its volume of water to the battery fluid. 

Diluted acid acts very slowly upon the zinc ; there is no 
violent action ; the fluid does not become hot ; there is very 
little generation of hydrogen gas, but a good and constant 
current of galvanic electricity. 

The Mcintosh galvanic battery is constructed with its 
metallic cord tip fitting firmly into the metallic binding post, 
which in its turn is screwed firmly into the metallic bridge, 
and this bridge securely fastened by metallic connection to 
the zinc and carbon plates, so that when the zinc and carbon 
elements are in good condition; and the fluid properly com- 
pounded, and the conducting cords all right, it is impossible 
to avoid getting a satisfactory current through the elec- 
trodes when the elements are immersed in the fluid. 



DHaananiHi 




X 

in 

3 

O 

. 3 

^ CG 

i— i u 

1) 

3 3 



03 
> 

O 

a 



CHAPTER XVII. 

THE REMOVAL OF SUPERFLUOUS HAIR. 

The galvanic current is always indicated in the work of 
removing blemishes, such as superfluous hair, moles or 
warts, as well as in treating enlarged blood vessels and in 
curing the vascular naevi. In the work of .removing the 
hair at least four cells will be required to begin with, while 
ordinarily the current from six will be used. It is well to 
have both sections of the battery filled so that more cells can 
easily be brought into circuit as required. In getting the 
battery ready for use the compartments are filled by means 
of the cup with the liquid called a bichromate solution. This 
liquid is an acid that is very destructive, hence it is well 
to have the battery placed on a large tray of metal and while 
pouring in the liquid a blotter should be kept in the other 
hand ready to at once remove any of the drops. As soon 
as the compartments are filled the zinc and carbon plates are 
immersed in the liquid, the small metallic bar is fastened at 
the back connecting one section with the other, and the 
galvanic portion is ready for use. 

As a measure of economy in conserving the strength of 
the battery it will be well at the commencement of the treat- 
ment to allow the second section of cells to remain resting in 
the drip cup until it be found that more than six cells will be 
required, then immerse the elements of the second section 
in the fluid and fasten the metallic connecting bar into its 
place, and the relay of six fresh cells is at once brought into 
readiness for use. 

The greatest demand will be in the removal of superflu- 
ous hair. In this work not only the galvanic current is re- 



THE SKIN. 



135 



quired, but also a needle holder, needles of various sizes, 
made preferably of either gold or iridio-platinum, a small 




Hard Rubber Needle Holder. 



pair of forceps and either a magnifying glass, an electric 
headlight or both. In Figure 12 the use of the lamp is clear- 
ly indicated. If it has been impossible to obtain instruction 



«mi^ 



Hard Rubber Needle Holder. 



in this work the beginner who wishes to attempt the process 
will do well to practice first upon the coarse hairs found on 
the arms and hands of those inclined to this growth. The 




Depilatory Forceps. 

first trial will show that practice is the most essential point in 
good work, for not only a knowledge of the proper proce- 
dure is required, but also a sure eye and a steady hand. 




Magnifying Glass. 

Before beginning work the patient should be placed in a 
comfortable position, as near a clear> strong light as possible. 



136 



THE SKIN 



If the day is dull and the light uncertain, the head lamp must 
be used, otherwise the magnifying glass attached to a head- 
band will be found of great service. If the lamp is em- 
ployed the long cord at the back is attached to the street cur- 
rent and managed in the usual way. A slightly recumbent 
position is advisable for the patient, as in this way all the 
muscles are more or less relaxed and the tension is not so 
great. The cord to be attached to the negative pole is placed 




Head Lamp for 110 Volt Current. 



in the section marked N, according to the number of cells 
that are to be used. If four, then the cord is inserted in 
the second opening from the front, as shown in Figure 12. 
The cord attached to the positive pole is inserted in a similar 
position in the section marked P, and is attached either to the 
carbon disc or sponge electrode and placed in the lap of the 
patient. 

The object in using a needle attached to the electric cur- 



THE SKIN. 



187 



mm n Minium" 1 



IlilllllllMI! 




Magnifying Glass, mounted on 
Head Band. 



rent is to destroy the tissue 
composing the hair papillae. 
Naturally, a small portion 
of the surrounding tissue 
must be affected by the cur- 
rent, and the problem con- 
fronting the operator is how 
to remove the hair growth 
with as little destruction of 
tissue as possible. It has 
been found by experiment 
that the negative current is 
by far the best for this pur- 
pose, and hence it is always 
employed, as the effect on the 
tissue is not only less severe, 
but the danger of scarring is not nearly so great. 

Note — When the positive pole is used, it is essential 
that the needle be either gold (not gold plated) or plati- 
num, as these metals are not attacked or corroded by the 
current. If a steel needle is used as the positive pole, a de- 
posit of iron salt will be left in the hair follicle, and a black 
scar will inevitably result. An additional reason for giving 
preference ahvays to the negative current is that negative 
electrolysis produces alkaline hydrates, destroys less tissue 
and allows the needle to be easily withdrawn. Positive elec- 
trolysis, on the contrary, releases oxygen acids, coagulates 
the albumen, destroys tissue and causes the needle to ad- 
here, making it difficult to withdraw the needle without 
lacerating the tissue. 

In order to destroy the hair, it is necessary to enter the 
follicle with a bulbous or pointed needle, the majority of 
the operators preferring the bulbous variety. The depth 



138 THE SKIN. 

of the follicle varies greatly, in some instances being not 
more than one thirty-second of an inch, while in others it 
is fully one-quarter of an inch. In finding the follicle it 
will be necessary to insert the needle as closely as possible 
by the side of the hair. The difference in the sensation of 
touch when the right path has been entered is usually suffi- 
cient proof of success. 

At any rate, when everything is in readiness the needle 
is inserted as directed, and is continued until it meets a 
slight obstacle. There it must pause, while the patient 
grasps the positive electrode in her hand, thus completing 
the circuit. If the follicle has been entered, in about twenty 
seconds bubbles of hydrogen gas will commence to appear 
about the site of the entrance. In fifty or sixty seconds the 
hair should be grasped by the epilation forceps and a gentle 
pressure exerted. If the process of destruction is complete 
the hair will come away instantly. If not, the current should 
be continued, and at the end of a minute another attempt 
should be made. If the hair comes out easily now it may 
be inferred that the work has been properly done. In case 
it does not come out at the last effort it is well to remove 
it forcibly and then enter the follicle with the needle for 
about half a minute in a further attempt to destroy the 
hair. Practice on the coarse hair of the hands will teach 
more than words can, for in this work an intuitive knowl- 
edge as well as a delicate touch are wonderfully good 
guides. 

The selection of a needle is an important item in this 
operation, and the point should always be examined with a 
strong glass that we may be able to ascertain its shape. An 
ordinary jeweler's broach will do if the point be ground off 
on an oil stone, and its temper drawn by heating, but the 
bulbous pointed needle, as recommended by the late Dr. 



THE SKIN. 



139 



P. S. Hayes, a magnified drawing of which is here shown 
in Figure A, is best suited for the work. There are several 
very important reasons why a sharp-pointed needle should 




Figure A. 

not be used : First, there is a depression in the epidermis at 
the base of every hair, very plainly shown in Figure B. The 
bulbous-pointed needle will always find this depression, 
while the sharp-pointed needle is just as liable to miss it, 
and not get into the hair follicle at all. Again, the hair fol- 
licles are not always the same depth or the same direction, 
but the sheath surrounding the hair is tough ; in fact, it 
takes considerable pressure to force the bulbous-pointed 
needle through, and it naturally will find the 
proper depth, while, as Dr. Hayes remarks* 
u the sharp needle would, in many cases, 
penetrate the walls of the follicle and wander 
into the tissue far from the desired point, 
and failure rather than success would be 
recorded." Many hairs are removed with 
sharp-pointed needles, and many writers ad- 
vocate their use, but success is purely acci- 
dental'. Figure B shows a magnified hair 
shaft and follicle into which a sharp-pointed 
needle has been plunged and has not entered 
the depression at the free surface of the skin, 
but which has accidentally penetrated the 
sheath from without and gained access 
to the papilla. Of course, such hair will be permanently de- 
stroyed. By referring again to Figure B, it will be noticed 
that the sheath is narrowest at the top or at the point of 




Figure B. 



140 THE SKIN. 

insertion of the hair shaft into the epidermis, which shows 
the necessity of actually following the hair shaft with the 
needle in order to be certain of entering the follicle. 

Again, the bulbous needle presents a larger surface with- 
in the hair follicles, the benefit of which is apparent. 

The illustration — Figure 14 — shows how the work may 
be performed. The connections in this, case are for four 
cells. The third cord, or section of the negative cord hang- 
ing down, may be used to bring another cell into circuit 
without disturbing the other connections. The head lamp 
is used in this instance, as the light thrown on the face is so 
brilliant that fewer errors in placing the needle will be 
made, while the ease with which it may be attached and 
worn makes it possible for the operator to utilize many 
dark days for working purposes. 

Caution must be observed in several particulars in this 
work, and it may be well to impress upon the beginner that, 
first of all, it is wiser to use a weak current for a long time 
than a strong current for a short time. In removing hair 
it is never advisable to continue the current for more than 
a minute or a minute and a quarter, unless the hair is very 
coarse and bristly. Of course, in this instance it must be 
used as needed. Too many insertions in the same sections 
should be avoided in order to prevent an inflammation, thus 
making work impossible for several days. By using dis- 
cretion in selecting different places upon the face the work 
may be continued for at least twice as long as where it is 
confined to one portion, and treatments may be given in this 
manner as often as every other day until the hairs are re- 
moved. 

After a sitting has been ended, and here it is well to 
repeat that one-half hour should be the average duration 
for both patient and operator, the portions worked upon 



THE SKIN. 141 

should be well massaged with zinc ointment, or if none is 
obtainable, the acne cream may be utilized. In this massage 
care must be taken to use only the zinc ointment made for 
this purpose, as otherwise the effect will not be as good. 
After the flesh has been well manipulated the zinc powder 
may be dusted on, and then all that does not cling, removed 
by drawing a soft cloth or bit of cotton softly over the face. 
The patient should have it thoroughly impressed upon her 
mind that no soap or water should touch the places worked 
upon until the tiny crust has disappeared. Night and morn- 
ing the ointment may be rubbed in well, and if it is neces- 
sary to cleanse the face the lettuce cream may be used 
about these portions, using water, of course, on the rest 
of the skin. 

The importance of this precaution cannot be overesti- 
mated, for the zinc ointment certainly possesses a marvelous- 
ly soothing influence on any surface that has been subjected 
to the electric current, and in the author's experience, where- 
ever care in this respect as well as in the use of the needle 
has existed, there has never been one case of scarring. 




iG 



3 -z 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

THE TREATMENT OF MOLES, WARTS AND NAEVI. 

The removal of pigmented elevations upon the skin is 
one for which the demand is continually growing. The use 
of caustics of various kinds was, in former years, quite suf- 
ficient to remove these disfiguring portions, but as the de- 
struction of tissue could not be limited to the affected area, 
the resulting scars deterred many from the attempt. In the 
use of electricity for this purpose, if sufficient care is mani- 
fested, the growths may be easily removed with little pain, 
and will leave but a small pit to mark the site. In some in- 
stances not even a depression can be found, and the skin 
appears perfectly smooth. 

There are so many varieties of moles that it will be 
simply confusing to mention them, describing peculiarities 
of structure and appearance. No matter which variety is 
found, the treatment is the same, and the negative current 
will be used for the purpose of removal. In Figure 12 the 
process is clearly illustrated, showing not only the moles, 
but also long, bristly hair, making the treatment more diffi- 
cult. 

In every case of this description the hairs must be re- 
moved in the manner described before working on the moles, 
as otherwise the use of the current might destroy them, and 
if allowed .to remain, trouble could result from the hairs 
festering. When there are a, great many bristles it is well 
to limit the first treatment to the removal of all that will 
come out easily. The next treatment may be given in two 
days and the balance removed, and on the third the work 
will be done as though the mole was to be freshly treated. 



144 THE SKIN. 

This is, of course, unless a crust or scab has formed. In 
this case no more work can be done until it has gone. The 
use of the zinc ointment at home will hasten this process and 
the patient may be told to return as soon as the crust has 
disappeared. In some instances the mole will also have 
vanished and no further work will be necessary. 

■ In actual practice at least six or seven cells are required, 
and in many instances ten and even twelve will need to be 
employed. The illustration shows but four, as it is wiser 
to begin with a small number until one has found out just 
how many can be used without inconvenience. The patient 
will hold the positive electrode and the operator will insert 
the needle into the mole in a vertical direction, allowing it 
to remain for about a half minute at each insertion and 
making from six to eight of them. If the current has been 
strong enough bubbles of hydrogen gas will be observed 
and the mole will appear blanched. Even the darkest mole 
will change during this work. If the surrounding flesh 
has not assumed a pinkish cast during this work the needle 
may now be thrust through in a horizontal position, having 
it nearly level with the skin as possible, and leaving it 
for twenty or thirty seconds. This process may be continued 
for two or three minutes, choosing a different point for en- 
trance each time and watching carefully to see that the nor- 
mal skin does not become reddened. As a rule, the work 
on one mole at any one time should not exceed five minutes, 
unless it is extremely large. In ordinary cases three treat- 
ments will be sufficient to cause the growth to. disappear, 
leaving but a red mark where the mole has been. By rub- 
bing with zinc ointment this color will gradually fade away. 
If the current has been continued too long and the in- 
flammation seems difficult to subdue, it is wise to defer fur- 
ther treatments for at least one week. In inserting the 



THE SKIN. 145 

needle after such an experience it is better to use a weak 
current, observing the mole and the surrounding flesh to 
see how it is affected. If the skin becomes a deep crimson 
do not attempt any work, but wait until it may be used with- 
out this effect. The scab or crust that forms on the moles 
is either very light or a dark brown and may take some 
weeks to disappear. As in the treatment of superfluous 
hair, the patients should be warned against attempting to 
remove this crust and should be cautioned against irritat- 
ing the skin in any way. 

In the work on warty growths it is wise to use a larger 
needle, employing either the gold or the iridio-platinum, as 
the inflammation seems not to be so great when these metals 
are utilized. The dark, soft moles and the pinkish va- 
riety respond more readily to treatment than others, though, 
of course, there are also exceptions to this rule, and it is un- 
safe to promise results in any given number of treatments. 
In many cases two or three treatments have been all that 
was necessary, and in others eight and even ten and twelve 
have been found requisite. 

Of course, one is positive that a thick, warty growth will 
be found more difficult to remove, and will take a stronger 
current as well as more treatments, but cases that are espe- 
cially obstinate are so often seen that the operator will do 
well to explain this peculiarity to each new patient, thus ex- 
citing no false hopes and running no risk of disappointing 
them. The statement that the moles may positively be re- 
moved though the number of treatments cannot be told is 
usually sufficient to encourage a desire to have the work 
done. 

Nervous patients must be especially cautioned against 
touching the portions operated upon, as in this manner 
many scars are caused. The positive request that nothing 



146 THE SKIN. 

but the ointment touch the spots will usually result in a very 
small pit to mark the site of the mole. This spot will 
gradually grow smaller until in a short time it is barely 
perceptible. 

Warts are removed in the same manner as moles, but 
as the substance composing them is dry and hard to pene- 
trate, it is wiser to use a larger needle, while the current 
may be employed for a longer time. Ten and even fifteen 
minutes may be employed in the treatment of large growths, 
and the same rule that applies to the moles may be used here, 
for as soon as the surrounding tissue is at all affected the 
use of the current must be stopped. 

In connection with the removal of moles and warts it is 
well to be extremely cautious in the use of the right pole. 
There are several ways of telling which is right, aside from 
the fact that the sections are marked either negative or 
positive, but as too many directions are more confusing than 
none, the ones that follow will be sufficient. With the nega- 
tive pole, one may observe the ease with which it enters or is 
removed from a growth. Another proof is found in the 
bubbles of hydrogen gas forming about the needle. The 
use of the positive pole is shown by the way in which the 
tissue clings to the needle, and if the steel needle is used, by 
the black mark that is left in the skin, caused by the oxida- 
tion of the metal. Thus a careless operator may remove 
a growth, but leave in its place a mark that shows the error 
in treatment. 

In the work of removing nsevi, or wine marks, one of 
two methods may be employed. If the discoloration is 
small, the platinum needle may be used, attached, of course, 
to the negative pole. This needle should be inserted first 
in the center of the growth, and then at least five punctures 
should be made in the tiny capillaries which radiate from 



THE SKIN. 



147 



this source. Should the growth be larger, the second 
method may be employed. This calls for the use of the 
needle disc, and in this method the entire area is treated by 
a single application of the numerous points. In some in- 
stances,, much blood escapes from the tiny apertures. This 
generally lasts but for a few moments, and is of no conse- 
quence. If, however, it seems desirable to alleviate this con- 
dition, the application of the positive electrode by means of 
a platinum needle will almost instantly produce the desired 
result. 



MMNTOSH B.A.O.CO. 

CHICAGO. 




Needle Disc. 

For the removal of "Pigmentary Naevus" or wine marks. 

IMPORTANT FEATURES OF AN OUTFIT. 

The three features which are considered by most derma- 
tologists in the selection of a battery and outfit for this class 
of work are, in their respective importance ; Reliability, sim- 
plicity and portability. 

The twelve-cell fluid battery must ever hold the palm 
for entire reliability, but there are many operators who 
will insist upon the convenience of the simple and more 
easily portable dry cell battery, and to all such we commend 
the Mcintosh dry cell electrolysis battery. In designing 
this battery all of these points have received due considera- 
tion. It is fitted with six Columbia No. 4 dry cells — cells 
which we have found to be the most reliable. With ordinary 
use and proper care they should last for from six months 
to a year. 



148 



THE SKIN. 



DIRECTIONS. 

The sponge electrode, well moistened, should be at- 
tached to one end of the conducting cord, and the tip on 
the opposite end of the cord should be inserted in the socket 
marked + (plus). This sign always indicates the positive 
pole. 




Mcintosh Dry Cell Electrolysis Battery. 

The needle holder should be attached to the conducting 
cord and the free end of the cord should be attached to 
the post corresponding to the number of cells it is desired to 
use; post "i" for one cell, post "2" for two cells, post "3" 



THE SKIN. 149 

for three cells, etc. It will be found that three or four cells 
are sufficient to perform any ordinary work. When both 
the sponge electrode and the needle come in contact with 
the patient the circuit is completed. 




5C 






be 
.S 



CHAPTER XIX. 

BLANCHING THE SKIN, DISCOLORATIONS AND USE OF FARADIC 

CURRENT. 

A most mortifying condition, and one frequently en- 
countered, is that in which the nose assumes a most decided- 
ly red hue, varying from the lightest tint to deep purple. 
Close examination generally reveals a network of bright cap- 
illaries traversing the nose and cheeks for a short distance. 
The use of the electric needle is here found most excellent 
in results and it should be employed without hesitation. In 
this treatment the opinions of the various operators have 
been far from uniform, as some insist that the positive pole 
shall be employed, while others are equally firm in their 
praise of the negative. However, in actual practice, the au- 
thor has found that the negative pole filled all requirements. 
It is best used by introducing the needle into the blood ves- 
sel and allowing it to penetrate a certain distance, then 
closing the circuit as usual by having the patient clasp the 
positive electrode in her hand. It is wisest to choose the 
largest vessel in beginning the work, as the destruction of 
this will also affect the tiny branches, and fewer insertions 
will thus be required. But a short treatment will be neces- 
sary for cases of this kind, and in no other trouble is the 
benefit more readily seen. 

When the flesh seems reddened and inflamed without the 
dilation of the capillaries, much can be done by applying 
the electrodes as shown in Figure 16. The absorbent cotton 
is moistened before being placed in the electrodes, and the 
current may be continued as long and as strong as the pa- 
tient can endure it. The skin will become extremely red 



152 THE SKIN. 

after a time, and the burning sensation will be experienced. 
Ten minutes is long enough for a treatment, and for some 
time after it is ended the redness will persist, but will 
finally give place to a much lighter appearance for some 
hours. Treatments for this trouble should be given at 
least every other day for two or three weeks until the im- 
provement has become permanent. 

This work is especially beneficial after blackheads and 
pimples have been removed from the face, and it is neces- 
sary to improve the nutrition of the skin. In acne rosacea 
this method is much used and is extremely efficacious. Of 
course, if the capillaries are dilated they are to be treated 
as directed, and the bi-polar method used afterward. 

In the use of the electrodes upon the face or near the 
head care must be taken, as in other cases, to commence 
with fewer cells, as some people are so sensitive that they 
complain of dizziness when electricity is used. If the pa- 
tient is extremely nervous and is subject to headache, one 
of the electrodes may be placed at the back of the neck and 
the other upon the face, thus causing a general as well as 
local effect, and sometimes improving the physical condi- 
tion as well as the nutrition of the skin. 

HOW TO REMOVE DISCOLORATIONS. 

Many times there will be a demand for something that 
will quickly whiten or bleach some portion of the skin, and 
the use of electricity has in such instances been particularly 
beneficial, for by its aid the substances to be employed may 
be forced into the skin, thus affecting directly the portions 
that require treatment. The most obstinate cases of moth 
patch and freckles have been speedily affected by this method 
when other means have failed, while in any process the re- 
sults are more rapidly attained. 



THE SKIX. 153 

Experiments have proved that by moistening electrodes 
with certain substances and applying them to the unbroken 
skin, making the current sufficiently strong, the materials 
have been forced into circulation. For instance, concentrated 
solutions of sulphate of quinine and iodide of potassium 
can be detected in the urine thirty minutes after they have 
been applied to the skin. The amount detected after four 
or five hours is even greater, showing that the process has 
been going on steadily. In all of this work the idea is. of 
course, to cause the drugs to enter the circulation. 

In bleaching the skin there is only a desire to cause the 
fluid to penetrate a certain distance in order to remove 
the discolorations. Great care must be taken to select 
liquids that can be used with the positive pole, as otherwise 
the work will be useless. The bleaching lotion mentioned 
elsewhere has been found most excellent for this purpose 
and may be used by moistening the cotton thoroughly and 
placing it in the positive electrode. The negative electrode 
may be used with cotton moistened with salt and water and 
held on some indifferent portion of the skin, or as indicated 
in Figure 17. At least fifteen minutes may be spent for 
each treatment and the current from six cells may be em- 
ployed to begin with, gradually increasing them to ten as 
desired. Where the effect of a general bleaching is desired 
the current may be used longer, say twenty minutes, chang- 
ing the poles, instead of using the positive alone, by sub- 
stituting the negative occasionally. Treatments of this kind 
are better given after the water massage has been used, and 
will be found to be most effective when they are given at 
least three times a week. Mild discolorations may be re- 
moved with greater ease and will demand far fewer treat- 
ments. 




Figure 17. . 
Massage with Use of the Faradic Current. 



THE SKIN. 



155 



USE OF ELECTRICITY IN MASSAGE. 



In massage of the skin, where there is a desire to stim- 
ulate, the Faradic current is usually employed. In addition 
to the desired effect there is a pleasant tingling sensation, 
which to many people is really most soothing. Neuralgic 
pains of the face and head are quickly relieved by this cur- 
rent, while nervous headaches vanish so speedily that the 
cure seems remarkable. 

The Faradic portion of the battery is used much as the 
galvanic section. The current is produced by immersing 
the plates in the solution, and the fact that this portion is in 
working order may be told by the humming, buzzing noise 
that commences as soon as the plates are in position. The 
current is utilized by attaching the conducting cords to the 
posts marked P and N and increasing the strength if neces- 
sary by extending the little 
shield that projects from the 
right of the coil. 

In massage work the patient 
holds one electrode in her hand, 
while the operator fastens the 
cord to her wrist electrode, as 
shown in Illustration 17. The 
current thus passes through the 
fingers of the operator to the 
face of the patient. The direc- 
tions in the rules for massage 
may be observed here, being careful not to extend the 
use of the current for longer' than twenty minutes at any 
time. 

A way of uniting the cleansing and stimulating treat- 
ment in one operation may easily be practiced by the use 
of the same apparatus just as described and applying the 




Wrist Electrode. 




Figure 18. 
Use of Massage Roller. 



THE SKIN. 



157 



water massage at the same time. This can be easily done 
and is considered an exceedingly beneficial treatment. The 
current used in this method will need to be very light, as 
otherwise the shock will be too great. 

The massage roller, Figure 18, may be used by attaching 




The Massage Roller. 

it to the conducting cord and applying as it may most be 
needed. Of course, in all of this work the positive pole is 
the one to be applied to the skin for the purpose of stimula- 
tion, while the negative electrode is either held stationary 
upon the skin or is clasped in the hand. 

The vibratile is a most excellent article for use in this 




The Vibratile. 

work, and is easily managed, as shown by Figure 10. It is 
connected to at least four of the galvanic cells and is ap- 
plied by gently drawing it over the face, causing a stimulat- 
ing effect difficult to describe. The rapid interruptions 
cause vibrations deep enough to affect the muscles power- 



158 . THE SKIN. 

fully. This instrument is particularly beneficial in the 
treatment of flabby skins, the reduction of a fat neck and 
also in the stimulation or development of the breast. 

The faradone, as illustrated in Figure 19, is also a val- 
uable adjunct to facial work. It is generally used in the 
treatment of flabby skins, and as shown may be utilized for 
pressing out the deep creases in the forehead. The re- 
markable results in restoring tone to the skin by the use of 
this instrument has made it exceedingly popular with the 
best operators. As indicated in the illustration, • it is used 
with the Faradic current ; however, in some instances, the 
connections ordinarily used will not produce sufficient cur- 




rent to give the desired effect. In case the connections to 
the secondary binding posts do not produce a sufficiently 
powerful current, it may be increased by this method. One 
cord may be attached as usual from the negative secondary 
binding post to the neurotone, while the other bifurcated 
cord may be attached to both the positive secondary and 
primary binding posts, making the connection to the neuro- 
tone as before. 

The Faradic current is also employed with very pleasing 




Figure 19. 
Use of the Faradone. 



160 



THE SKIN. 



results in the treatment of the scalp, and here it acts as a 
most reliable tonic, promoting the growth of the hair to 
a remarkable degree and improving the condition of the 
scalp. In Figure 27 the use of the electric hair brush is 
shown, and this is, perhaps, the favorite method for admin- 
istering the current. If the bristles seem a little too sharp 
and the patient is sensitive the tips of the fingers may be 
used on the scalp after the wrist electrode has been con- 
nected. In this way the current will have a milder effect. 

There are many other ways of using these currents, but 
as each operator has her own particular class of people to 
treat, she soon becomes accustomed to the methods best 
suited to her work and uses nothing else. In the use of 
electricity the same rule applies and only experiment and 
study can teach which is best suited for her purpose. With 
the experience acquired through persistent application and 
study any clever woman can soon achieve marked success 
in this field. 



CHAPTER XX. 

THE CARE OF THE HANDS. 

The woman who wishes to preserve the beauty of her 
hands can easily do so if she will devote at least five min- 
utes a day to the work of attending to them. This will, of 
course be in addition to the weekly manicure, for in actual 
care the attention of a professional will be secured at least 
as often as this. It is said by close observers that hands 
show the beginning of age much sooner than the face, and 
that it is by this fact alone that many women otherwise 
beautiful have been unable to deceive their acquaintances 
in regard to the number of years that have flown. The 
flesh becomes flabby and withered in appearance, brown 
spots appear and the joints look as though much larger 
than formerly, simply from the falling away of the skin 
and the formation of the many folds. Care will remedy 
these defects to such an extent that a really fine-appearing 
hand may be preserved even in old age, hence the fastidious 
woman will do well to arrange for the expenditure of the 
necessary minutes each day if she wishes to maintain a rep- 
utation for youthful appearance. 

In reading of a beautiful hand the mind naturally pic- 
tures the ideal of the artist, with firm white flesh, long, 
tapering fingers, delicately tinted, filbert-shaped nails and 
soft, pink palm. A pleasing vision, indeed, but one seldom 
seen, for the model hand is nearly as rare as the model foot, 
and the majority of people must be contented with one that 
will at least not be classed as "impossible/' even if it can- 
not be called beautiful. A great authority has said that the 
truly patrician hand can only be found when there have 



162 THE SKIN. 

been generations of noble ancestors. The stujdent of palm- 
istry can easily contradict this fact, for experience proves 
that very frequently people of the humblest parentage pos- 
sess hands so perfectly molded that the noblest might well 
long to possess them. The earnest thinker and close ob- 
server has never been found with a hand of this type, neither 
has the successful or ambitious business woman. The idle 
dreamers or artistic souls are usually those who claim the 
ideal hand, and it is well that this should be so, for they de- 
serve some compensation for being so useless from a prac- 
tical point of view. 

The time to change or improve the shape of the hands, 
fingers or nails is that of infancy, and the careful mother 
will see that the tiny finger nails are treated with due at- 
tention. Infants who show a tendency to keep the fingers 
in their mouths not only change the shape of the finger and 
alter the beauty of the nail, but also spoil the mouth as well. 
This tendency may be checked by applying a solution of 
quinine to the tips of the fingers. As they grow older the 
tiny finger should be rubbed with oil, the cuticle pressed 
back with an orangewood stick and the nails trimmed care- 
fully that they may be encouraged to grow long and slender. 
Biting of the nails must positively be forbidden and if neces- 
sary stringent measures taken to prevent the practice. 
Children should also be taught how to care for the hands 
and how to prevent the rough, red appearance so universally 
seen in childhood. It can hardly be argued that a child will 
not enjoy the playtimes as well without these bleeding, raw 
surfaces as with them, and by a very little work the habit 
may be formed that will be successful in preventing this 
condition. 

The greatest amount of trouble comes because not one 
person in a hundred is taught to wash the hands properly. 






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164 THE SKIN. 

Soap is a cleansing medium made of , alkalies and 
fats. Combined with water a lather is formed that cleanses 
the skin. Allowed to remain on the skin and become dry, 
the alkali keeps on actively irritating the cuticle and the 
result is shown in the reddened and coarse surface. Soaps 
for cleansing purposes, such as the common household 
soaps, are invariably strongly alkaline and should never be 
used to remove soil from anything less delicate than wood- 
work. The mixture for the hands should be as nearly 
neutral as possible, and a soap of this description will not 
make much of a lather. Children should be taught that 
after the hands are cleansed by the action of the soap and 
water they should be rinsed off well in clear water and then 
carefully dried. If they are at all inclined to become chapped 
or irritated each time after the washing process a little 
jelly may be rubbed in well and the hands dried as usual. 

A very good mixture for this purpose is called Rose 
Jelly. It is easily made and will be found excellent for 
general use. 

ROSE JELLY. 

Mucilage of Irish moss 2 § 

Glycerine 3 § 

Extract witch hazel (dist.) 25 

Cologne 1 § 

Borax 30 gr. 

Dissolve the borax in the witch hazel, mix with half of 
the glycerine and cologne and add Oil of Rose sufficient to 
perfume. Mix other part of glycerine with mucilage and 
then stir slowly into the part first prepared. After allow- 
ing it to stand three hours, strain and it will be ready for 
use. 

This jelly when properly made will not have an oily ef- 
fect and will dry in immediately. It is best applied while 



THE SKIN. 165 

the hands are still damp. At least once a day after the 
hands have been thoroughly cleansed the cuticle should be 
pressed back with an orangewood stick and the nails thor- 
oughly rubbed with chamois skin. By folding this over the 
first finger it may be made into a most excellent buffer for 
polishing, using it alternately on the first finger of each 
hand as it may be required for polishing the nails of the 
other. 

Women of leisure and wealth rarely either require or 
need advice as to the care of their hands. It is those who 
are so occupied that they cannot take time to consult the 
expert or to those who are situated away from large centers 
or those, who though possessing the inclination, have not 
the money to spend on this work, that these lines will be 
most welcome. The woman who does her own housework 
may not always admit it, but the one great disadvantage 
that fills her with dismay is not so much the labor involved 
as the unsightly appearance her hands present. 

Much of this difficulty may be avoided not only by 
care in the use of soaps, and in cleansing the hands, but 
also by efforts made to save them from all unnecessary 
trials. For instance, in washing dishes, hand mops can be 
purchased that will do away with the necessity for keeping 
the hands in water so long at a time. Rubber gloves are 
also a wonderful aid in this respect. When the work of 
sweeping or other heavy labor is to be done the soft palms 
should be protected by an old pair of gloves, very loose 
and soft enough to prevent callous lines from appearing 
where the seams are joined. In every part of domestic ar- 
rangements much may be done by expending a little 
thought to make the demand on the hands very much less. 

When the hands are very red and appear swollen, phys- 
ical culture will do much toward overcoming this proof of 




M 
If) 

O 

o 
be O 



in 

P 



THE SKIN. 167 

poor circulation. Tight lacing is now so little practiced that 
few women are guilty of undue compression, otherwise it 
might be mentioned as a frequent cause of the trouble men- 
tioned. Another difficulty equally embarrassing and one 
more difficult to cure is that of undue perspiration, in which 
the palms are constantly moist, ruining any gloves the first 
time they are worn, and making the act of shaking hands a 
positive torture. This last trouble may frequently be en- 
tirely cured by dusting this powder over the palms each 
time after washing them. 

DUSTING POWDER. 

Boracic acid I g 

Alum (powdered) 2 § 

Salycilic acid 1 § 

Talcum 25 

Mix together and sift through several layers of bolting 
cloth until ready for use, then dust on as required. 

Cosmetic mittens worn at night do much to soften the 
hands and make them presentable, but if the work during 
the day is extremely trying, it is often unwise to attempt 
wearing them, as the hands are made so much more tender 
that they become rough more readily upon immersion in 
soap and water. For those who have no particular de- 
mands upon them for undue exertion the use of the mit- 
tens each night will certainly do wonders. They are pre- 
pared in a number of ways, and there are numerous recipes 
for the paste-like mixtures, but none of them are better than 
the one that follows : 

WHITEklNG PASTE. 

Rub into one pound of honey enough of the powder of 
almonds to make a stiff paste, and then add gradually the 
whites of eggs until six have been used. Stir in twelve 



168 THE SKIN. 

ounces of almond oil, six ounces of solution of alum (sat- 
urated) and four of borax. Mix well, and if too thin add 
more almond meal. This is to be used by spreading upon 
the hands at night and then drawing on large mittens or 
loose gloves to protect the clothing. Another method is to 
spread the paste on mittens before applying, but the effect 
is more uniform if spread directly upon the hands. 

In the morning wash off with warm water, and before 
the hands are entirely dry rub in the rose jelly. 

At no time will hands appear to worse advantage than 
just when they should look the best. This is invariably the 
case on the occasion of some dinner of state occasion where 
these important members must be decidedly in evidence. 
More than one woman has shed bitter tears as the last mo- 
ment approached and the red or discolored appearance was 
as obtrusive as ever. A remedy that may be applied to 
very good advantage will doubtless be appreciated by those 
so bothered. This cream is too startlingly white to be used 
on the face, but mav be rubbed in the hand whenever the 
occasion demands, with the happiest of results. It is best 
applied immediately after cleansing the hands well with 
soap and water, and is easily prepared. A clever woman 
who used this preparation with the happiest of results de- 
clared that to those who were obliged to resort to anything 
of this kind the only appropriate term for this preparation 
was the Slave's Delight. It is made by sifting the subni- 
trate of bismuth into the blended oils and then stirring until 
smooth. 

DISGUISE FOR RED HANDS. 

Almond oil . . . 4 § 

Lanolin 1 § 

Spermaceti 1 § 

White wax 1 § 




43 

til 

"o 

^ 13 
bo <u 



170 THE SKIN. 

Subnitrate of bismuth I § 

Oil bitter almonds io drops 

In addition to home care every woman who can afford it 
employs the professional manicure at least once a week 
and oftener if necessary. The treatments when given by 
one who thoroughly understands the art is so pleasing that 
the expense of the work is but a small consideration. There 
has been a tendency of late years to make the fee for this 
work less. When one stops to consider that a good mani- 
cure cannot be given in less than one hour, to say nothing 
of the amount of material that must be used during the 
process, the complaints against the first-class professionals 
who persist in charging living rates will be heard with less 
patience. A thoroughly good treatment will consume the 
greater part of an hour, besides involving the use of much 
material, and, if the work is to be well done, the remunera- 
tion must be in proportion. 

The tools necessary for this work vary, as used by the 
different schools of manicuring, but should always consist 
of at least those in the following list. 

i package of orange wood sticks. 

2 buffers. 

2 scissors. 

2 files. 

i package emery board. 

i box polishing powder. 

I box ointment. 

i box fine pumice stone. 

I bottle cleansing liquid. 

I cuticle knife. 

The best professionals generally commence the treat- 
ment by trimming the nails and shaping them on one hand, 
while the other is placed in the warm soapy water. After 



172 THE SKIN. 

a few moments the hand that has been soaked is taken in 
charge and the nails are brushed vigorously with the small 
nail brush and soap. The cuticle knife is then used for 
pushing; back the flesh that has encroached upon the sur- 
face of the nails, and the orange wood stick is employed to 
push back the skin at the base of the nail. If the under part 
of the nails seem much discolored, a mixture of pumice 
stone and cleansing liquid, such as ongaline, is placed all 
about the selvage skin, just inside the nail, and allowed to 
remain for a time. During this process the second hand 
should have been soaking and should be ready for the 
work just described. 

The first hand is once more ready for treatment and 
the work of removing the pumice stone is now commenced 
by the use of the orange wood stick. If there is still dis- 
coloration in any nail the mixture must be replaced again. 
A bit of the polishing powder is then sprinkled upon the 
buffer and the work of imparting the gloss is commenced. 
In this, care must be taken to avoid heating the nail and 
the strokes should be given in a leisurely manner. After 
the polishing with powder has been finished, a little of the 
white or rose colored ointment is rubbed on the nail, more 
powder is placed upon the buffer and the work again re- 
sumed. When the nails seem uniformly polished the hand 
is again placed in water and scrubbed .well with the little 
brush. Examination now reveals the presence of rough- 
ness under the nails and perhaps several places where the 
cuticle needs attention. The emery boards are used for 
removing roughness under the nails and hang-nails that 
have not succumbed to the trimming given by the scissors 
are again retouched and then the polishing or kid buffer 
employed to give the final touch. The results should be 
nails finely polished, delicately pink in appearance and well 



THE SKIN. 173 

shaped, with no bleeding surfaces to make one feel that 
the tools had been more vigorously than wisely used. 

The other hand is then cared for in the manner indicated, 
but this time the first hand is not returned to the water but 
may remain on the table until the next step is taken. This 
consists in using the pencil polish as shown in the following 
illustration. The end of the pencil is moistened by water 
until the nail may become nicely coated, and then the buffer 
is used immediately for polishing it. This process is shown 
in the last picture and is easily done. The pencil polish 
gives a beautiful lustre and as it appears immediately, it is 
far better for the nails than one requiring so much buffing. 
If the nails are at all obstinate, a second application will be 
rewarded with success. Of course, the other nails are 
treated in the same manner, and this concludes the giving of 
a perfect manicure. This polish is most excellent for a 
tonic as well as a beautifier and will be found a boon in this 
respect, for nails covered with white spots or deeply ridged, 
are apt to be sources of mortification. 

By adopting these rules they may be cured. For white 
specks always follow directions as given for manicuring and 
in addition, melt equal parts of myrrh and pitch in a cup and 
hold the nails in this mixture for some moments. Repeat 
each day for five days. 

For ridged nails take two ounces each of lanolin, 
petrolatum, almond oil, one ounce of myrrh and one-half 
ounce of tincture of benzoin. Melt together and hold the 
fingers in this mixture as long as possible until the nails 
become thoroughly softened. Do this every 'day for a week, 
and avoid use of powder or enamel in any form for polishing. 

The use of the scissors excepting in removing hang- 
nails or in clipping nails that are too long to file is but 
a small item. The best operators all employ the orange- 
wood sticks whenever it is possible to do so, and they have 



172 THE SKIN. 

a few moments the hand that has been soaked is taken in 
charge and the nails are brushed vigorously with the small 
nail brush and soap. The cuticle knife is then used for 
pushing; back the flesh that has encroached upon the sur- 
face of the nails, and the orange wood stick is employed to 
push back the skin at the base of the nail. If the under part 
of the nails seem much discolored, a mixture of pumice 
stone and cleansing liquid, such as ongaline, is placed all 
about the selvage skin, just inside the nail, and allowed to 
remain for a time. During this process the second hand 
should have been soaking and should be ready for the 
work just described. 

The first hand is once more ready for treatment and 
the work of removing the pumice stone is now commenced 
by the use of the orange wood stick. If there is still dis- 
coloration in any nail the mixture must be replaced again. 
A bit of the polishing powder is then sprinkled upon the 
buffer and the work of imparting the gloss is commenced. 
In this, care must be taken to avoid heating the nail and 
the strokes should be given in a leisurely manner. After 
the polishing with powder has been finished, a little of the 
white or rose colored ointment is rubbed on the nail, more 
powder is placed upon the buffer and the work again re- 
sumed. When the nails seem uniformly polished the hand 
is again placed in water and scrubbed .well with the little 
brush. Examination now reveals the presence of rough- 
ness under the nails and perhaps several places where the 
cuticle needs attention. The emery boards are used for 
removing roughness under the nails and hang-nails that 
have not succumbed to the trimming given by the scissors 
are again retouched and then the polishing or kid buffer 
employed to give the final touch. The results should be 
nails finely polished, delicately pink in appearance and well 



CHAPTER XXL 

HOW TO IMPROVE THE ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST. 

There is little excuse in this progressive age for the 
possession of scrawny necks, round shoulders, poorly de- 
veloped busts and skinny arms. True, physical culture alone 
may not be able to more than fill out the hollows, but unite 
this system with massage and the use of the various oint- 
ments for refining the coarse skin, and the change will 
indeed be most marvelous. 

A beautiful arm should be softly rounded, smooth and 
white, and should taper gradually to the hand. Many of 
the skinniest and roughest arms have been made over with 
marvelous success by the following method : 

First, of course, comes exercise in the open air, playing 
games such as golf, tennis or croquet, and the use of the 
system particularly directed to the work of remedying any 
deficiencies that seem the most strongly marked. The cos- 
metic treatment will, of course, depend upon the condition 
of the skin, and if it is rough and covered with flesh that 
looks pimply, the work can be hastened greatly by bathing 
each night with warm water and paste soap, using wash- 
cloth of coarse variety to cause more friction. The arms 
may then be rubbed well with a good tissue food or Creme 
Celeste, using deep massage for at least fifteen minutes. 
In the morning cold water baths may be taken, and the 
massage treatment continued for at least three weeks. At 
the end of that time the roughness should have subsided 
sufficiently to allow a change, and this lotion may be applied 
each night: 



176 THE SKIN. 

Rose water , .' 65 

Tincture benzoin \ 1 5 

' Oxide zinc 1 5 

Shake well and apply with a sponge and allow it to dry 
in thoroughly before rubbing ; then commence the massage 
without ointment for a few minutes each night. By the 
end of five or six weeks there should be a marked improve- 
ment. 

When, in addition to being skinny the arms are also 
covered with wiry black hair, the treatment is more diffi- 
cult, for it is impossible to disguise the condition sufficiently 
to allow the use of short sleeves or evening dress. Hence 
the choice must be made between these two methods : The 
first consists of using a depilatory from time to time and 
thus removing the hair completely for a temporary period ; 
the second is by using enough peroxide of hydrogen to 
thoroughly bleach the hair so that it will hardly be notice- 
able. If the first process is chosen the depilatory given 
here may be tried, and though said to be extremely effective 
in some cases, it is certainly a trifle severe in others and 
can never be applied with any degree of certainty as far as 
the after-effect on the skin is concerned. 

DEPILATORY. 

Orpiment I ^ 

Quicklime 10 5 

Starch 140 

The ingredients must be ground into a fine powder and 
kept in a tightly corked bottle. When used, a small por- 
tion of the powder should be mixed with water into a paste 
and spread over the hairy portions. As soon as the paste 
dries, wash it off, and the hair will come with it. If the 
skin is extremely sensitive and commences to smart, the 



THE SKIN. 177 

paste will need to be removed immediately or the cuticle 
will be injured. In any event, as soon as it has been washed 
off, a mild cream should be applied. 

If the peroxide treatment is used, the arms' must be 
washed first with soap and water, then with a solution of 
soda and water, to take away all traces of oil that may be 
upon the skin. Then a mixture of peroxide and ammonia 
may be applied by means of some cotton or a soft cloth. 
This may be continued until the hairs are sufficiently 
bleached, and if the first treatment is not sufficient to accom- 
plish the purpose, a second may be taken. The proportion 
of the two liquids should be one of ammonia to six of 
peroxide, and it is said that a continued use will make the 
hair so brittle that they will fall out, and in time cease to 
reappear. At any rate the bleaching process makes them 
much less conspicuous. 

Deep massage is much used for toning the muscles of 
the neck and shoulders, and applications of various oint- 
ments and lotions are often necessary in order to make the 
skin look well. The best formed neck can never appear 
to advantage if its beauty is marred by the appearance of a 
deep mark of dingy hue encircling it, and this is an occur- 
rence that is only too common. The cause is, of course, 
found in the stiff neckwear, either of linen or any other 
material that encircles the throat closely. 

The cure is first of all in abolishing anything, but soft 
ribbons or other substitutes that will look as well. Next, in 
using a whitening cream each night for massaging the skin 
and last of all in applying- a bleaching lotion until the dis- 
colorations have vanished. The use of cloths saturated in 
peroxide of hydrogen after the water massage is also ex- 
cellent as an aid in hastening the process of whitening the 
skin. 



178 THE SKIN. 

The sagging of the flesh directly under the chin may, 
of course, be prevented by the use of proper massage, as 
illustrated in Figure 9, while the mallets may also be em- 
ployed to advantage for the same purpose, and exponents 
of vocal culture declare that the proper use of the muscles 
in singing will be of great use for this purpose. The proc- 
ess is a trifle expensive, however, for those of ordinary 
means, so massage and exercise will generally be called 
the best aids. 

The hollow spaces found about the neck and shoulders 
almost inevitably yield to exercise unless the individual is 
extremely emaciated. Applications of a nourishing skin 
food and the use of the deep plucking massage are ex- 
tremely beneficial, while above and beyond all may be men- 
tioned the use of the breathing exercises mentioned in an- 
other chapter. The shoulders of perfect beauty are usually 
an inheritance, for they should form a continuous curve 
from the neck to the arm, with no sharply defined departure 
to make the change. Physiological development will do 
much toward improving the carriage and toward broadening 
the shoulders, but of course cannot entirely change the 
original form. 

If the skin should be rough and covered with small red 
pimples, a state frequently common during the summer 
months, the following treatment will be found most bene- 
ficial. First of all, a course of sulphur baths, followed by 
the application of this paste each night: 

Honey 1 S 

Alum sol 2 § 

Whites of eggs 2 

Carbolic acid 1 3 

Almond oil 2 § 

Almond meal sufficient to make a paste. 



THE SKIX. 179 

In the morning this paste may be removed by the use 
of warm water and a mild soap, and this lotion applied : 

Rose water 65 

Lemon juice 15 

Borax 1 3 

Alcohol 1 5 

Glycerine 1 5 

One week of this treatment should get the skin in very 
good condition, though if it is very rough it will also be 
necessary to use massage as well before the paste is applied. 
If necessary to appear in public in evening dress before the 
skin has become smooth enough to look as it should, the 
whitening creme may be applied and rubbed in energetic- 
ally and then powder dusted on. Many famous beauties 
invariably use a creme of this description as a preparation 
for an evening toilet. 

The development of the bust is a matter that creates 
much interest, for the woman who is thin declares, to be 
happy, she must be larger, while the over-developed one 
longs hopelessly for a decrease. The perfectly developed 
woman is, of course, neither one nor the other, but just right, 
and there should be approximately a difference of about ten 
inches between the size of the waist and the bust, and prac- 
tically the same difference between the hips and the waist. 

Proper exercise, bathing and light massage are the best 
remedies for increasing the measurements, and if due care 
is taken, there will be few poorly developed women aside 
from those suffering from physical weakness. The use of 
the many glass arrangements and metallic attachments ad- 
vertised for this purpose cannot be too strongly condemned. 
In the hands of specialists they may do some good, but as a 
rule they are harmful beyond belief, and may produce per- 
manent injury when applied by the novice. Massage of 



180 THE SKIN. 

the breasts should be most carefully done, after washing 
them with warm water and applying a good skin food. The 
movement should be performed with the flat portion of the 
hand, rubbing in a circular fashion around and around, 
and finishing with a quick dash of cold water. Deep breath- 
ing exercises will also be of great benefit, and those who 
have been able to take swimming lessons claim they can see 
a wonderful difference as a result. Electricity may also be 
employed to advantage by using the Faradic current for 
fifteen minutes daily. 

The reduction of the breasts desired by overly stout 
women should never be attempted by the amateur, for there 
is too much danger of causing some injury which may later 
develop into a malignant growth, as this portion of the body 
is peculiarly susceptible to trouble of this kind. The use 
of bandages wet in solutions containing lead have been 
much in vogue and cannot be too vigorously forbidden, as 
the absorption of this poisonous material into the system is 
even more dangerous when applied upon this part of the 
body than when used on the scalp, as in hair tonic, etc. If 
something must be done, the afflicted one may try bathing 
the parts with a solution of tannin and alcohol — ten per cent 
of tannin being the quantity used — and following with a 
light massage and cold water. This method may in time 
take away the superfluous flesh and will at any rate be 
harmless. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

THE MOUTH AND TEETH. 

The woman who is fortunate enough to possess a beau- 
tiful mouth, of medium size, with an upper lip bowed, and 
moderately thin underlip, both fresh in coloring, can never 
be altogether unattractive. If in addition to this important 
feature she owns a set of sound, white teeth, she is indeed 
to be congratulated, for, with two such aids, she may hope 
to make much of herself. Complexions may be beautified 
and hair may be transformed, but a mouth is impossible to 
remake, unless surgery can be employed, and even then the 
small scars resulting will not assist in making matters any 
better. 

So few people can be said to possess the perfect mouth, 
it may be well to consider the best means of treating the 
imperfections commonly seen, and in order to do this it will 
be necessary to understand the requisites necessary for the 
normal condition of the ordinary mouth. 

The lips are two horizontal, flexible folds, surrounding 
the opening of the mouth, and on this margin the skin 
passes into the mucous membrane. The red portion of the 
lips, though really belonging to this mucous membrane, also 
partake of the nature of the skin. The coloring should be 
fresh, with a decided, though dry, gloss. The beauty of the 
lips depends not only upon the coloring and outline of the 
margin, but also on the symmetrical distribution of the 
tissue and the peculiar bright gloss of the red portion. 

The cosmetic defects most frequently found are those of 
color, shape and condition of the epidermis. The lips may 
be too thick, or too thin, too much bowed, or too long and 



1&2 THE SKIN. 

straight. Aside from the application of coloring, cleverly 
simulating the desired curves, little can be done to remedy 
defects in form, though it has been said that to some ex- 
tent the conditions may be improved. For instance, bathing 
the lips with tannin will somewhat reduce the size, while 
thin, drawn-in lips are declared to be improved by the 
application of irritants. The use of coloring as mentioned 
will not be possible in daylight, but can be used for stage 
purposes alone, and in this way may entirely change the 
expression of the face. 

Colorless lips, when caused by ill health, are usually 
remedied only by general improvement, and in case of 
wasting disease, of great severity, nothing but the paint- 
pot can remedy the condition. 

The cosmetic error most commonly seen is that of chap- 
ping of the lips. In some cases the epithelium seems to 
peel off without cause, at any time of the year. In others, 
this trouble is caused by the use of sharp spices, cheap cos- 
metics, and often by poisoning from colored veils. In all 
severe cases the lips are pale and covered with scales, or red 
and surmounted by brownish crusts. Deep incisions, either 
in the center or at the corners of the mouth bleed readily 
on pressure. This trouble, if neglected, may become 
chronic, leaving the mouth in such a distorted condition that 
it is almost as disagreeable to behold as it is painful to 
possess. Taken in time, it will often yield to treatment, by 
applying the proper ointments and avoiding the use of irri- 
tants. Many people, in an endeavor to remedy matters, have 
but increased the difficulty by using pure glycerine, instead 
of an oil, and in this way simply intensified the irritation. 

If the applications of soothing salves are not efficacious, 
and the incisions persist in becoming deeper, it may be 
necessary to cauterize the portions before destroying them 



THE SKIN. 183 

entirely. This rigorous process may be followed by bland 
substances with good results. For ordinary purposes this 
salve will be found efficacious : 

Lanolin I 3 

Almond oil 25 

Spermaceti 2 3 

White wax 1 3 

Carbolic acid y 2 o 

Melt the oils together, and add the acid when the mix- 
ture has cooled. Apply whenever necessary. In addition 
to the use of the salves, certain precautions should be ob- 
served. For instance, the lips must not be moistened while 
out in the air. The practice of biting them must not be 
allowed, and, most important, no veil should be worn that 
will draw across or touch the lips in any way. By observing 
these rules much trouble may be easily avoided. 

The treatment of the gums must also occupy some atten- 
tion, as no mouth can be considered perfect if the gums 
appear pallid and unhealthy. In reality, they are simply 
the mucous membrane surrounding the teeth. When in 
perfect health they are firm, of regular contour, with pyra- 
mids not too prominent, and of a healthy red. The cos- 
metic defects of the gums do not depend so much on general 
diseases and are more easily treated as connected with the 
teeth. The proper attention to one is generally sufficient 
to insure a good condition in the other. When, in use of the 
toothbrush, the gums bleed easily, there is, of course, an 
indication of loosening and inflammation that will necessi- 
tate the use of a flat toothbrush instead of a narrow one, 
and the brushing of the gums themselves, as well as the 
teeth. A mouth wash is of benefit in these cases and may 
be applied either with a brush or by means of a cotton 
swab. It may be made of these ingredients : 



184 THE SKIN. 

Listerine I 5 

Alum sol y 2 % 



Myrrh 



2 



Water 3 § 

Cases of receding gums are more difficult to treat, as the 
trouble is not only constitutional but local. The wash that 
may be used to good advantage is best made by mixing 
together — 

Lime water 2 § 

Myrrh . . 1 3 

Bals. Peru 1 3 

Milk magnesia 6 § 

This wash may be used many times during the day, and 
in addition the service of the dentist should be employed. 

Perfect teeth are said to be nearly as rare as perfect 
gems. This statement may well bring a smile of pleasure 
to the lips of the woman who possesses the requisite num- 
ber in absolutely good condition. The cosmetic errors of 
the teeth are now so well cared for by specialists who have 
made the simulation of good ones a study, that nearly every 
woman may purchase what Nature has denied her, if she 
wishes to do so. Unsightly cavities are cleansed and built 
up with porcelain so nearly matching the teeth that it is 
impossible to tell where it begins, or ends. Or, if the teeth 
are really hopeless, the greater part will be cut away and a 
new portion made that will fit on the old roots and extend 
into the gums, in such a manner that detection is practically 
impossible. 

The incrustations that appear in the form of a yellowish 
deposit should be removed as soon as they appear, as other- 
wise the enamel will be injured, and the teeth thus be made 
to decay. There are many forms of these deposits, and of 
course the soft ones may be kept away by the use of a 



THE SKIN. 185 

toothbrush and a good dentifrice, but the hard variety will 
need the attention of the dentist. If so situated that his 
services cannot be commanded, much may be done by very 
careful work with the finest of pumice stone mixed with 
powdered charcoal and applied by means of a small stick and 
a bit of cotton. This work must be very cautiously done. 

Absolutely clean teeth will not decay, but as it is impos- 
sible to reach all the tiny cavities and thoroughly cleanse 
them, constant work is necessary in order to prevent the 
tiny particles of food from accumulating in the crevices. 
The use of a poor dentifrice is thus responsible for much 
trouble, and care must be taken to secure one that is fully 
adequate to the task of cleansing the crevices as well as the 
surface. A dentifrice that may be easily prepared and will 
be as effective as any, may be made of these ingredients : 

Orris root powder 45 

Precipitated chalk 85 

White castile soap 4 § 

Oil sassafras 40 drops 

Oil bay 80 drops 

Honey enough to form paste. 

Or, if a liquid dentifrice is preferred, there may be a 
demand for this recipe, as it cleanses the teeth nicely and 
will not injure the enamel: 

Quillaja, coarse powder 1^0 

Cochineal powder 15 gr 

Glycerine 3 § 

Oil of wintergreen 25 drops 

Alcohol 10 § 

Peppermint water to make 32 g 

For many purposes a 'wash such as described is most 
excellent, as the alcohol penetrates into crevices and assists 
greatly in preventing any process of decay. It has been 
noticed that brandy drinkers usually possess fine teeth, as 
the alcohol acts as a cleansing and disinfecting agent. 



186 THE SKIN. 

When properly brushed, few teeth will require much 
attention from the dentist, unless there is some process of 
crumbling going on, that is due to insufficient -bone-making 
material in the body. It is quite surprising to note in this 
connection that even when people are desirous of saving 
their teeth and preventing decay, few of them actually know 
how to use a toothbrush. 

A hard brush is usually indicated in cases where the gums 
are normal. Even when the gums bleed, and are tender, 
this tendency may be overcome by the use of a brush of this 
description. Before using a new brush it should be well 
washed with soap and water and then allowed to stand in a 
solution of boracic acid for at least one hour. Then the 
powder should be applied on the brush, and the teeth 
cleansed by drawing it vertically from above downward, 
and from below, upward. The next process consists in 
brushing them horizontally and finally the upper and under 
surfaces should be cleansed. If the teeth are extremely 
brittle, the process may be finished by rinsing the mouth out 
with lime water. In any event it is well to use a mouth 
wash from time to time, employing either listerine or some 
thing of that nature for the purpose. 

Discolorations may be removed by scrubbing the surface 
of the teeth with bits of cotton, soaked in pyrozone and 
water, say a twenty-five per cent solution and then rinsing 
the mouth out with clear water. A yellow appearance is 
common to some teeth, while in others it is induced by the 
use of dentifrices containing a great deal of soap. It is 
never wise to employ the bleaching fluid too frequently, as 
in time it might injure the enamel. 

The disagreeable odor from the mouth, that is not only 
embarrassing but disgusting as well, may arise from the 
teeth or from numerous other causes. When from the 



THE SKIN. 187 

teeth, the filling of the cavities and constant use of a good 
dentifrice will be sufficient to banish it. If, from the tonsils 
or a catarrhal condition, the use of pyrozone as a gargle 
will be met with great success. If the trouble arises from 
a disordered stomach, of course, the cure will consist in 
remedying the condition at fault. A mild solution of 
boracic acid, made by adding enough of this substance to 
water to make a ten per cent solution, will make a very good 
liquid for use in this manner. It should be used, not once, 
but many times a day, and if necessary may be followed by 
these pastilles for perfuming the breath. Of course, these 
are only temporary remedies, to be used while the real cause 
is undergoing some process of treatment. No woman of 
any refinement can ever feel resigned to such a condition 
if there is any aid for it. The pastilles may be made after 
this recipe : 

Powdered licorice iogr. 

Powdered charcoal 20 gr. 

Vanilla sugar 3 5 

Gum arabic 5 3 

Mix with warm water to a stiff paste, roll and cut into 
lozenges. These pastilles will neutralize the acidity of the 
stomach, and will arrest decay of the teeth, in this way^ 
assisting to make the breath endurable, until further meas- 
ures can be taken. 

Finally, the following remedy for toothache will be of 
benefit to those who are subject to it, and it should be kept 
on hand, as it requires some time to prepare. It is best used 
by applying it to a bit of cotton, and then inserting the 
cotton in or near the aching tooth. 

Camphor 2 § 

Oil cajuput 4 

Chloroform 5 5 

Oil of clove 2 3 



188 THE SKIN. 

Mix and dissolve by agitation, and keep tightly corked, 
until needed. Heat may also be employed to advantage, by 
applying the hot water bottle to the side of the face most 
affected. The use of the remedy given, in connection with 
heat is rarely unsuccessful. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

THE CARE OF THE FEET. 

To be really comfortable and happy, every woman should 
know just how to keep her feet in good condition. If she 
does not, nothing is more certain than the fact that she 
will spend a certain number of days each year in an ex- 
tremely remorseful frame of mind, unable to walk with any 
degree of ease on account of aching and tender pedal 
extremities. 

The most frequent cause of trouble with the feet is sim- 
ply neglect. Of course, all civilized people do take care of 
the body and incidentally the feet by bathing at frequent 
intervals, but not one person in ten will take the trouble 
to care for them intelligently and thus prevent trouble, 
instead of going to much labor and expense curing it. When 
one considers the number of absolutely unhygienic shoes 
placed upon the market, made of materials that are bound to 
cause more or less difficulty, with heels so absurdly high 
that not only the feet but also various organs of the body 
must suffer when they are used, there is really not much 
occasion for sympathy with people who suffer because they 
willfully place themselves in a position to bring on these af- 
flictions. 

One of the first requisites for good feet is found in the 
wearing of good shoes, and by this is meant well-fitting 
shoes that will support the instep and heel without pressing 
the toes unduly. The sole should be moderately thick and 
the heel low, while the leather should not be of either patent 
kid or any other highly glazed variety, for anything of this 
kind prevents ventilation and induces undue perspiration, 
making the feet tender and painful. 




Figure 24. 
Massage of the Foot. 



THE SKIN. !91 

The hosiery, too, should be well considered, and if pos- 
sible, all colored hose should be procured with white feet. 
The skins of some people are so sensitive that the wearing 
of even the most expensive colored hosiery invariably results 
in the appearance of -eruptions like water blisters 
and terminating in a condition resembling eczema. Besides 
procuring the hose of this description care should be taken 
to change the stockings at least every other day, and if it 
can be arranged every day. Fine cotton will be found the 
best hose for all occasions, as either lisle or silk are apt 
to irritate the skin in time, while in addition to the irrita- 
tion the silken hose wear out so rapidly that few people care 
to incur the expense. 

The care of the feet consists in bathing them at least 
once a day, preferably at night in lukewarm water and soap, 
using the wash cloth carefully to cleanse the space between 
the toes, and finishing the process by powdering the sur- 
face well with a mixture of boracic acid and talcum. 

If the flesh feels at all painful and the feet are swollen, 
immediate steps should be taken to cure this condition and, 
after bathing them, the following tonic should be applied : 

Alcohol 6 I 

Tannic acid I § 

Alum Yz § 

Witch Hazel 2 | 

If the swelling is extremely marked it will be well to 
apply bandages soaked in the tonic and allow them to 
remain over night. Before dressing in the morning the feet 
may be sponged ofif with cold water, and both the stockings 
and shoes should be dusted with the boracic acid and talcum 
mixture. 

The large and painful joint, so often a source of misery, 
may be made far more endurable by massaging it. Illustra- 
tion 25 shows the process as performed by an expert. Ordi- 



192 THE SKIN. 

narily the foot will better rest on a pillow or pad, but for the 
purpose of illustrating the work, this position has been 
selected. Although the best work is naturally done by a 
professional, even an amateur can do wonders in the way of 
relieving this condition by supporting the foot with one hand 
while the other rubs from the instep down to each toe and in 
a gently circular motion the affected joints. 

The following mixture may then be applied to them 
and the remainder of the surface dusted over with powder. 

FOR PAINFUL JOINTS. 

Guaiacol • . . . i J 

Collodion I § 

Shake well and keep in a tightly corked bottle. 

The cream for massaging may be either the Creme 
Celeste or any other good cream, as it is simply to aid the 
fingers in manipulating the flesh. 

Corns may be removed and kept in most excellent sub- 
jection by adopting the following plan. Before attempting 
to touch them the feet should be well soaked in very warm 
water. After removing them the callous portions should 
be peeled off carefully, taking care not to use a sharp knife 
that will cut the skin in any way. As soon as all of the 
portion that will come away easily has been used, an appli- 
cation of this remedy may be made. 

CORN CURE. 

Collodion 6 ,3 

Guaiacol 1 3 

Canna. Indica ^4 5 

Sal. acid 1 5 

Acetic acid . J4 o 

Add the liquid ingredient and shake well and then add 
the salicylic acid and shake well until dissolved. Keep 
tightly corked and apply with a bit of cotton wrapped 
around a slender piece of wood. If the mixture becomes 




Figure 25. 
Massage of the Joint to Reduce Inflammation. 



194 THE SKIN. 

dry it may be made liquid again by adding ether to it. This 
remedy is most excellent for removing the pain speedily and 
will, when properly used, be wonderfully efficacious as a 
cure. Each night for four nights the process should be 
continued as described, and each peeling off of the callous 
portions should be performed with the knife that is not too 
sharp. 

At the end of that time the surface should be smooth 
and free from any evidence of a corn. If it is not the process 
may be continued until the corn has disappeared. An occa- 
sional application from time to time will be all that is 
necessary. 

Before using the knife it should be sterilized as directed 
in the chapter on -this subject, and in case the flesh is injured 
or cut a solution of boracic acid should be used immediately 
pouring it directly on the wound and applying a small 
bandage. In the treatment of soft corns, the same rule 
may be adopted, being careful, however, not to attempt to 
do anything excepting wash out and cleanse them if they 
are festered. For this purpose peroxide of hydrogen will 
be excellent, followed by rinsing with boracic acid solution, 
and the placing of a dry bit of cotton between the toes to 
prevent the accumulation of moisture. 

Ingrown nails are subjects for skilled specialists, and too 
much stress cannot be placed upon the danger of a cut to 
flesh in this inflamed condition. An old remedy and one that 
has been much cited may be tried by those who are obliged 
to depend upon home treatment. It consists in scraping 
the center of the nail as thin as possible by means of a bit 
of broken glass, while the corners of the nails are, of course, 
raised by means of small cotton pledgets. 

If at any time there has been a cut of any kind or if the 
foot has been injured and becomes swollen and angry in 
appearance the wet bandage of a saturated solution of bo- 




Figure 26. 
Bandaging Inflamed Joint. 



196 THE SKIN. 

racic acid should be used until a physician can be consulted. 
It is never wise to neglect such injuries, as many of the most 
fatal cases of blood poisoning have come from cuts made 
while attempting to remove corns. It is for this reason that 
no cutting should be done, and instead the use of the peeling 
process insisted upon wherever it is possible so to do, the 
use of a strong acid for eating away corns should be for- 
bidden, as much of the surrounding flesh is involved, and 
the danger is too great to pay for the small chance of relief. 

The care and cure of corns is not difficult if but suffi- 
cient patience is practiced, but there can be no neglect, for 
if there is the trouble will soon be as disagreeable as ever, 
and the pain even more intense as time goes on. 

Feet that perspire too freely can usually be managed by 
bathing each night in warm water, to which a few drops 
of formalin have been added, and in the morning dusting 
the shoes with the powder made as follows : 

Salicylic acid I § 

Alum >4 § 

Boracic acid Y* § 

Starch 2 § 

If this is not effective enough more salicylic acid may 
replace a portion of the starch. Ordinarily, however, it will 
be found all that is required. In the use of any dusting pow- 
der absolute caution is necessary in removing the powder 
between the toes, otherwise the irritation caused by con- 
stant rubbing will cause an inflammation and possibly the 
portion will fester. The bathing each evening, when prop- 
erly done will prevent any such complication. 

Chilblains may be effectively treated by painting them 
with pure guaiacol, or the mixture of guaiacol and collodion 
recommended for inflamed joints. To produce the best ef- 
fects this preparation should be applied not once, but sev- 
eral times a day and again at night. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

CARE OF THE HAIR. 

The proper treatment of the hair must also include a 
knowledge of the best means of securing a healthful condi- 
tion of the scalp, for hair may be compared to a plant whose 
growth depends largely upon the quality of the soil, the 
amount of air, sunlight and careful attention given it. 
Ordinarily the care of the hair is restricted to very infre- 
quent shampoos taken more to insure comfort from the 
peculiar itching condition present when the scalp is neg- 
lected, than because of interest in the best manner of keep- 
ing the scalp and hair in good condition. People with fine 
hair almost invariably abuse it, and only begin to realize 
the necessity for treatment when it commences falling out 
or splitting at the ends or turning a peculiar shade from the 
application of strong tonics or poor shampoos. 

The hair is a thread-like structure formed of tissue that 
is really a modification of the cuticle. It is divided into the 
point, the shaft and the root. The root of the hair swells 
out into a bulbous enlargement fitting into a small recess 
in the true skin called the follicle. Near the mouth of the 
follicle will be found the opening ducts of one or more oil 
glands, while at the bottom are found the papillae similar 
to those on the skin and supplied with nervous fibrils. The 
shaft or stem of the hair is covered with fine scales which 
may even be felt by drawing the fingers over it from tip 
to base. The coloring matter is generally supposed to be 
situated in the medullary strand or pith found in the center 
of the hairs, while the weight and number of hairs to the 
square inch depends upon the color, thickness and length. 



198 THE SKIN. 

Upon the surface of a quarter of an inch Withof found of 
the black hair 147, brown 162 and blonde 182, thus showing 
that the black hair is the thickest and the blonde the thinnest. 

Oken has observed that the hair formation is the con- 
nective link between vegetable and animal tissue, and states 
his opinions as follows : "The fur is the peripheral con- 
nection between the plant and the animal. The hair forms 
the summit of the vegetables. As the plant requires air 
and light, so, in the animal kingdom the hair appears where 
it is most exposed to these elements, namely, on the surface. 
It is not a little remarkable that those mammals which 
stand nearest the man, the anthropid apes, are distinguished 
by their great development of the capillary system." 

To the earnest student the words quoted have a deep 
significance, for they point to the proper course of treatment 
as nothing else can, and show plainly that the perfect human 
being should be under no need of stimulating tonics or 
treatments if the open crowned hats and physical culture 
work could be universally known. Any curative treatments 
should be extended not only to the scalp but also to the entire 
body, at least so far as giving advice as to diet, manner of 
exercise and any other point that may improve the general 
health. 

The majority of scalp diseases could be avoided if more 
people could be made to realize the necessity for system in 
shampooing and caring for the scalp and hair. Many in- 
stances might be cited in which excessive falling of the hair 
has been checked in one or two treatments by the use of 
massage and electricity, and stimulating tonic. Unfor- 
tunately, however, the majority of people neglect the use 
of any of these measures until the loss of hair has been 
extremely great and the follicles so weakened by neglect 
of the scalp that it is impossible to do much, excepting to 



THE SKIN. 199 

preserve the tresses that are left. There are innumerable 
cases in which the falling of the hair commences in children 
of fifteen and continues year by year until as manhood or 
womanhood is reached the condition is truly mortifying. 
So much of this trouble is entirely unnecessary that it seems 
strange indeed to know how few people really have interest 
enough to acquire knowledge in the proper care of this 
most important attribute. 

To begin with, few scalps are cleansed as they should be. 
The majority of people cleanse them frequently but not wise- 
ly, for in the desire to possess fluffy locks they employ all 
kinds of injurious substances that sooner or later destroy the 
vitality of the hair. Among the common recipes for this 
purpose may be mentioned the use of salts of tartar, strong 
ammonia water, soda, borax and other articles that are too 
numerous to mention. Sometimes a simple shampoo is used 
and the hair is rinsed with another mixture containing an 
acid. Nitric acid will, it is true, turn the hair yellow, but 
is so powerful that it can also eat holes in nearly every sub- 
stance when used pure, while hydrochloric and sulphuric 
acid can actually dissolve the hair. Thus every strong alkali 
or acid used will in some way injure the tresses in such a 
manner that it will be nearly impossible to remedy the 
trouble. 

Every scalp should be thoroughly cleansed at least as 
often as once in ten days, and if the hair is to be kept in 
good condition the process must be one that shall remove 
the dirt, dust and sebaceous secretions without extracting 
too much oil. The best shampoo is one not too strongly 
alkaline that can still leave the hair as it should be, and for 
this purpose there are several excellent recipes. 

In Germany the use of bran water is extremely common 
and as it makes a good, though simple, shampoo some of 
the readers may enjoy trying it. 



200 THE SKIN. 

BRAN SHAMPOO. 

Water I gal 

Bran I qt 

Ivory soap */2 bar 

Boil the bran with the water for about an hour and then 
strain and add the soap shaved into small bits. Enough of 
this is used to make a good lather and the scalp is covered 
with it. Perhaps it may be well to explain that in sham- 
pooing few people really pay enough attention to the scalp. 
The best shampoo is given in this manner. 

The hair is, of course, smoothly brushed and is separated 
strand by strand, while the shampoo mixture is poured upon 
the scalp. As soon as the surface is well covered the tips 
of the fingers (not the nails) may be employed to rub the 
fluid in well, examining from time to time to see that the 
friction is not too vigorous and also to see if the cleansing is 
proceeding well. As soon as the surface has been well 
manipulated the mixture should be washed off with warm 
water and some more of the mixture poured on. The second 
process is usually all that is necessary, and as this is. fin- 
ished the hair itself should be washed with the shampoo 
and the scalp well rinsed, using first very warm water, then 
cooler, rinsing in water of medium temperature at least twice 
and ending with water as cold as the patient can endure in 
order to stimulate the scalp as much as possible. 

The locks may be dried by any of the usual methods, 
though when practical the use of the towels is best until 
the heaviest strands are free from moisture. Then an ex- 
posure to the rays of the sun will be all that is necessary 
and will be the most beneficial method. When this is not 
practical the use of dry heat is a rapid method and when 
not used at an extremely high temperature is not injurious. 

Egg shampoos, while popular, do not seem to be the best 



THE SKIN. 



201 



for all scalps. The following recipe is one much used by 
those who can secure good results. 

EGG SHAMPOO. 

Yolks of three eggs well beaten. 
One pint of warm, soft water. 
One ounce of spirits rosemary. 

Beat well together and use as any shampoo by applying 
to the scalp. In this much care must be taken to rinse the 
scalp well. 

For those who wish to employ a practical as well as ex- 
tremely good recipe, the following will be found excellent. 
It not only cleanses the scalp but also leaves the hair in a 
fine condition, and is not particularly expensive. 

SHAMPOO MIXTURE. 

Green soap 4 § 

Castile soap 4 § 

Water dist 1 qt 

Alcohol 8 5 

Boil the soaps in water until a thick mixture results, and 
then add the alcohol, and keep in a tightly corked bottle 
until ready for use. The mixture will, of course, be diluted 
with water when necessary, and this quantity will be suf- 
ficient for many shampoos. 

If a tar soap is desired it may be made in the same man- 
ner, or by simply boiling it up with water until a shampoo 
of the desired consistency is obtained. 

After the shampoo, while the scalp is still moist, a good 
tonic may be used to good advantage and should be- rubbed 
in vigorously, unless the s.calp is at all irritated. In this 
even the application of pure witch hazel will be found most 
soothing. In case the hairs are split the ends should be 
trimmed and enough clipped away to give an opportunity 
for a healthy growth. 



202 THE SKIN. 

If any one has been unfortunate enough to be afflicted by 
the presence of vermin, it is well to apply this ointment 
before shampooing: 

Petroleum 5 3 

Olive oil 2.y 2 3 

Bals. Peru 1 3 

This ointment may be rubbed in well with a piece of 
white flannel and allowed to remain at least twelve hours, 
or if possible, twenty-four. At the end of this time not only 
the vermin are destroyed, but the ova are also made harm- 
less. To be perfectly safe, it is well to repeat this dose the 
following day, and if the scalp is irritated apply a bland oint- 
ment. For removing the ova from the hair a dilute solution 
of acetic acid may be used very successfully^ as it dissolves 
the gluey substance by which the "nots" are secured in 
place. Even if the head becomes completely infested, it is 
not necessary to cut the hair, as this treatment will be all 
that is necessary. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

TREATMENT OF SCALP AND HAIR. 

There is an ever increasing demand for some agent that 
shall stop the falling of hair, and, although every one real- 
izes that poor health, sedentary occupations and improper 
modes of living are very frequent causes, still there are 
numerous cases where the trouble is caused by lack of care 
and the consequent weakened condition of the tresses and 
the uncleanly scalp. The most important requisites for a 
really fine condition of both hair and scalp apart from the 
very necessary cleanliness are, ventilation, and the proper 
amount of friction. In many instances where delicate chil- 
dren have the trouble of scanty locks as well, the systematic 
care after weekly shampoos has done wonders. No matter 
whether the hair is extremely oily or exceptionally dry, 
long or short, the foundation of all good work is based on 
the adoption of certain sensible rules, and it may be con- 
fidently asserted that if more people would understand and 
practice these instructions there would be few cases of bald 
heads, 

The process of giving scalp massage is daily gaining a 
wider recognition on account of the immense benefit derived 
wherever this practice has been faithfully carried out. It 
may be given either with or without the electric current, and 
is visually commenced by parting the hair in straight lines 
from the forehead toward the back of the neck, and employ- 
ing the two first fingers of each hand as shown in illustration 
28 for administering the massage. 

To do the best work, the fingers must be placed firmly 
on the scalp and then pressed in such a manner that the scalp 




Figure 27. 



Using the Hairbrush P^lectrode, 



THE SKIN. 205 

is manipulated without pulling the hair. The movement is 
made both forward and backward several times, continuing 
the work over every portion and using either an oil or witch 
hazel, or a good hair tonic to keep the scalp moist during 
the work. 

The next step is shown in illustration 29. Here the 
thumbs of each hand are kept in a stationary position at the 
back of the scalp while the fingers are spread out and under 
the hair, keeping firmly in place while the massage is con- 
tinued by moving the scalp with this pressure. 

The result of this treatment while not seen immediately 
is usually manifested in a very short time and is undeniably 
pleasing to any who are in need of scalp stimulation. Many 
people have employed this process of manipulation at home 
for ten minutes each day with truly remarkable results in 
increasing the growth of the hair and banishing every sign 
of dandruff. 

This treatment is always finished by the application of a 
good tonic well rubbed in, and it may be observed that a 
tonic so employed has a far better effect than when it is 
used without the preliminary treatment. The recipe given 
is highly praised and will be found most efficacious for 
the purpose. 

STIMULATING TONIC. 

Tincture of cantharides 2 3 

Fl. Ext. of jaborandi . . 1 3 

Glycerine 1 3 

Alcohol 2 § 

Cologne , 1 3 

Water sufficient to make log 

Bichl. mercury . . 2 gr 

This mixture will need to be filtered several times before 
it is clear enough for use, and then it will be found extremely 
beneficial. 



206 THE SKIN. 

If very rapid results are desired, or where it is advisable 
to spend the time the electric treatment should follow the 
use of the tonic, and in any case should be used on every 
scalp at least once a week, as it stimulates so well, that ben- 
efit is sure to follow rapidly. For this purpose the Faradic 
current is most excellent, and the connections may be made 
as shown in Figure 17, using the brush for the work and 
employing it for at least twenty minutes. If the wire bristles 
seem to be too sharp, and the patient complains of the 
strength of the current, the wrist electrode, as seen in Figure 
17, may be used and the treatment given in this manner by 
allowing the current to pass through the fingers, and onto 
the scalp. 

When loss of hair is caused by nervous trouble the use 
of electricity is of added value, as it acts as a sedative to 
the nerves as well as a stimulant to the scalp. Headaches, 
either nervous or neuralgic, are relieved speedily and thus 
in many instances the health is improved. When the hair 
is exceptionally oily and the scalp feels cold and looks white 
and lifeless, the galvanic current may be used to great ben- 
efit in this manner. A bit of cotton well saturated with a 




Hairbrush Electrode. 

stimulating tonic is placed in the handle connected to the 
positive pole and placed upon the scalp, while the negative 
electrode is held in the hand. The entire scalp is treated 
in this manner and the treatment is finished by giving the 




Figure 28. 
Scalp Massage— First Movement. 



208 THE SKIN. 

scalp massage as directed. Treatments for this peculiarity 
must be given at least twice a week and the work done at 
home should also be of a nature that will assist in this proc- 
ess. For instance, it is advisable to sponge the scalp at 
least twice a week with this mixture : 

Alcohol 6 § 

Oil mace 2 3 

If it is impossible to obtain electric treatments and they 
are found to be necessary it will be advisable for patients 
to secure their own batteries with the brush attachment and 
thus be in a position to use the currents as often as they like. 

In connection with this topic it may be well to mention 
the practice of clipping or singeing the hair. There has 
been for many years a difference of opinion on these points, 
and until recently few of the higher authorities have seen 
fit to give much attention to the discussion. Now it is de- 
cided that clipping is the best method, as burning takes 
away too much of the vitality. The split ends are so nu- 
merous in some cases that it seems almost impossible to 
find all of them, but if the hair is twisted in small strands 
and then roughed by moving the fingers from the tip to- 
ward the head, the small scissors can easily pass along and 
get the worst hairs, while subsequent treatments will be 
sufficient to keep them all well trimmed. This work should 
be done at least once every four weeks and does much to 
keep the hair in good condition. By following the hints 
given here, any head of hair may be kept in good condition 
and the majority of cases of falling of the tresses stopped. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

THE TREATMENT OF DANDRUFF OR SCURF. 

Dandruff has been called by a very eminent authority — 
''catarrh of the epidermis" — and as there are many varieties 
of catarrh so there are numerous complications of this very 
disagreeable and common scalp affection. At times it is a 
short-lived affair, at others, most persistent, and as it is 
always objectionable, the best manner of treatment should 
be one of interest to every one so afflicted. 

The skin affected with dandruff is usually anemic and 
may also be either dry or humid. The itching sensation is 
sometimes moderate though frequently almost intolerable, 
while the tissue surrounding the patches of sebaceous matter 
is generally much reddened and in some instances becomes 
painful from the constant inflammation. This disease pos- 
sesses many peculiar manifestations and may be found asso- 
ciated with other scalp affections. Ordinarily, however, the 
varieties enumerated are the most commonly seen. 

A form met frequently is that in which greasy white or 
yellow scales of dry sebaceous matter form on the scalp and 
even fall from the surface onto the shoulder of the individ- 
ual. The hair is in some instances matted together, in others, 
it becomes extremely oily, though in time it generally 
becomes dry and lusterless and will eventually fall from 
the follicles. If the destructive process still continues un- 
checked the follicles themselves become atrophied and bald- 
ness results, leaving the scalp in the dry shiny condition 
familiar to all who have been at all observant. The small 
reddish patches found on scalps affected with dandruff are 
almost invariably caused by the scratching from the finger 



210 THE SKIN. 

nails and in the inflammation constantly present in these 
sections makes the treatment of the dandruff much more dif- 
ficult, as there is danger of producing an extensive irrita- 
tion. 

^Another variety of dandruff consists of a fine powder- 
like deposit that seems hardly fastened to the scalp, it is so 
easily detached, though extremely plentiful. This kind is 
usually associated with extreme dryness of the skin and 
even seems inclined to invade portions of the face as well. 
Still another and one that is fortunately not so common, is 
found in the appearance of thick scales of a yellowish-gray 
substance that also appears on the face if left unchecked. 
In connection with these scalp affections is found another 
condition that is extremely trying, in which an oily fluid is 
poured out both on the body and scalp. The ducts of the 
sebaceous follicles in this condition are plugged with com- 
edones, and the surface of the skin is usually cold to the 
touch, showing the necessity for a treatment that shall im- 
prove the circulation as well as to restore the functions of 
the glands. 

The treatment of these peculiar conditions must natur- 
ally be something that shall tend to prevent abnormal collec- 
tions of fatty material upon the skin, remove the crusts of 
dandruff without undue irritation and improve the condi- 
tion of the affected parts. These treatments when suc- 
cessful mean the expenditure of much time and thought, 
and the process is one most interesting to the earnest 
student. In all of this work there must exist a unanimity 
of purpose between the patient and the masseuse that will 
tend to most rapid results. 

In severe cases of dandruff the removal of the crusts 
will frequently seem to increase the loss of hair, as im- 
poverished by the course of the disease, and with weakened 



THE SKIN. 211 

follicles, a complete cleansing such as will be necessary will 
sometimes cause a loss of hair so great that the patient will 
fear baldness. This loss is absolutely unavoidable and even 
if the treatment is not commenced will begin sooner or later 
and the baldness will really be a permanent affliction. If, 
however, the dandruff is removed as indicated, the scalp 
massaged and treated, and the follicles strengthened, the 
hair will be encouraged to new growth, and by care, future 
trouble may be avoided. 

The use of a fine comb or any kind of a metallic affair 
for removing dandruff is not only unnecessary but injurious, 
as it fails to remove the crusts while it invariably succeeds 
in irritating the scalp and causing more difficulty. For the 
purpose, therefore, nothing is better than the application of 
some bland ointment or oil, such as olive oil, almond oil, 
lajd or any other substance that can thoroughly penetrate 
the crust. To be efficacious, the oil should be applied sev- 
eral times during the day, and again at night, using also 
some kind of a head covering to still further aid the work. 
A most excellent mixture for this purpose may be easily 
made by using these ingredients. 

SCALP CLEANSER. 

Lanoline . I § 

Carbolic acid ^ 5 

Witch Hazel 45 

Almond oil . 4 § 

Melt the lanoline and almond oil together and then while 
still warm pour in the witch hazel, adding the carbolic acid 
when the mixture is nearly cool. 

After the scalp has been soaked with this mixture and 
the crusts seem to be thoroughly loosened, the oil and crusts 
may be removed by applying the simple shampoo made by 
this method. 




Figure 29. 
Scalp Massage -Second Movement. 



THE SKIN. 213 

SIMPLE SHAMPOO. 

Green soap . . . . 2 § 

Alcohol 2 § 

Rosemary Tinct y 2 3 

Dissolve the green soap in the alcohol and add the tinc- 
ture of rosemary and pour enough on the scalp to cover it, 
rubbing and applying enough water to make a good lather. 
It may be necessary to apply this shampoo several times 
in order to thoroughly cleanse the scalp of the oil and 
dandruff. After it is cleaned it may be examined, and if it 
appears reddened and irritated, the following ointment may 
be rubbed in carefully : 

BLAND OINTMENT. 

Almond oil 5 g 

Bals. Peru ' 1 5 

Spermaceti 1 § 

In very severe cases, although this treatment seems 
wonderfully successful, the end of the second day will find 
a fresh deposit of the plates of dandruff, and it will be 
necessary to repeat the operation described for perhaps six 
or seven times at intervals of every three or four days until 
the tendency has been cured. As soon as the scalp can be 
cleaned without appearing at all irritated, a stimulating 
tonic may be used, and for this purpose nothing is better 
than this plan. 

Immediately after the shampoo apply to the scalp pure 
witch hazel and rub it well with the tips of the fingers. 
Repeat this process again at night and the second or third 
day use this tonic : 

Alcohol 2 § " 

Tinct. capsicum 1 3 

Glycerine 1 3 

Oil eucalyptus 1 3 

Rose water 6 g 



214 THE SKIN. 

Of course, in instances where the first cleansing has been 
all that is necessary this tonic may be used immediately or 
perhaps, better still, after the first day, using witch hazel 
first as described. 

The cases where the oily secretions occur are treated in 
exactly the same manner in the matter of cleaning, as the 
scalp will need to be well soaked in order to free the scalp 
from the fatty material. The tonic used will, however, be 
different than the other, and may be applied immediately 
after the shampoo. It is made thus : 

TONIC FOR OILY SCALP. 

Quinine sulphate 20 gr 

Bay rum 40 

Tinct. cantharides 1 3 

Tinct. capsicum 10 

Distilled water 85 

In addition to this tonic treatment instructions should 
be given to the patient to bathe frequently, taking at least 
three warm baths a week, and if possible finishing each 
one with a thorough rubbing with salt. 

One of the greatest causes for discontent in the work 
described here is not so much the failure to remove the 
dandruff, for the method described will positively do that, 
but in impressing upon people that the treatment must be 
continued until the scalp is in an absolutely healthful con- 
dition. When the loss of hair has been extremely great 
and the condition has been found to be complicated with 
eczema, even longer periods are required. Even when no 
complication exists and the loss of hair has been marked, it 
is often impossible to do much excepting to prevent further 
loss, for if the follicles are dead no new hair will appear 
in these portions. 

Those who are possessed of that very desirable requisite 



THE SKIN. 



215 



persistence, will positively succeed in curing the most 
obstinate cases of dandruff, and the competent masseuse 
should have no difficulty in impressing upon her patients 
the necessity for application. After the condition has been 
cured shampoos should be taken at least every ten days, 
and if possible one treatment a week for scalp massage in 
connection with electrical applications. Of course, the 
proper amount of rubbing will be done at home, and the 
scalp and hair should be thus kept in extremely good condi- 
tion. In any and every case, the applications of oil first, 
are positively necessary, and must be made frequently, as 
directed, if the results are to be good. 




A very desirable Germ-proof Hairbrush. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

HOW TO DYE AND BLEACH THE HAIR. 

The universal desire to conceal or disguise the first 
unwelcome heralds of age — gray hairs — is so openly ac- 
knowledged that even those who disapprove of the practice 
of using dyes, still admit the longing to be almost a natural 
one. It may be of interest to the ambitious to learn that 
the oldest prescription on record is for a hair dye, and is 
credited to no less a person than Shesch, the mother-in-law 
of the first king of Egypt. Whether Madame Shesch in- 
tended this for her daughter Teta or wished to preserve 
her own appearance no one seems to know, but as the rec- 
ords state that the dye was hers we may take it for granted 
that she also made use of it. 

Why the hair turns gray has never been satisfactorily 
decided. Some learned men declare that the blanching 
comes from the disappearance of the pigment cells. Others 
have by examination found the pigment as abundant as 
ever, but the corticle substance so dense that the color does 
not show through. There is no doubt that nervous strain, 
illness and heredity as well as advancing years may be cited 
as influences in this matter, and as in so many instances 
the growth of hair is as abundant as ever there can therefore 
be no question as to the healthful condition of the scalp. 
Whatever may be the cause there has as yet been discovered 
no cure, so the man or woman who wishes to hide from 
associates has no choice but in the application of a dye. In 
many instances this process is a necessity, as the appearance 
of gray hair would mean dismissal from lucrative positions, 
so in considering ways and means it is well to remember 
this fact. 



THE SKIN. 217 

There is an impression that hair may be colored perma- 
nently, but this is erroneous, for nothing can be dyed but 
the free portion outside of the follicle. Hence the process 
must be repeated from time to time, as the hair near the 
scalp will grow out a natural color, while constant brush- 
ing and washing will naturally take of? part of the stain. 
The requisites for a good dye are not easy to fulfill, for 
every one demands that the mixture shall be easy to apply, 
of a natural appearance and durable. It is almost impossible 
to find a dye made by an amateur that will fill these require- 
ments, though a few of the manufactured articles will posi- 
tively do so. However, as people love to dabble in the fas- 
cinating art of making strange mixtures some of the simple- 
recipes will follow. 

The vegetable and organic dyes are usually harmless, 
next to these come iron and permanganate of potassium, 
then copper, bismuth and bichromate of potassium ; next per- 
oxide of hydrogen, silver and finally lead. The last two, 
of course, are generally recognized as used, though not by 
careful workers. Fresh walnut hulls are much used, and 
this method is really harmless. Henna is much employed to 
stain the hair red and is so effective that even black hair 
will yield to its influence. By mixing henna with indigo a 
shade of brown is made and by using the indigo after the 
hair has been stained with the henna a very beautiful black 
is possible. 

The process is very simple. First comes a shampoo that 
must remove all the oil from the hair. Then with great 
care single strands are sme,ared with a paste made by mix- 
ing henna with warm water. The hair is then left accord- 
ing to the shade desired. If it is to be red and the hair is 
naturally dark, at least two hours will be necessary. Light 
hair will not take longer than an hour. 



218 THE SKIN. 

If the color is to be black it may be treated again with a 
paste made in the same manner with indigo powder and 
water. During this process the hair becomes a greenish 
black, later turning into a fine black that is very permanent. 
This process is even said to be beneficial, as far as increas- 
ing the growth of the hair is concerned, and in Turkey the 
manes and tails of horses are dyed red by means of henna. 
If one wishes to use the two ingredients at the same time 
the following formula may be of use, as it is said that by 
the application of this paste the hair may be dyed any shade, 
from light to dark chestnut brown : 

Henna 15 

Indigo 35 

Water 4 5 

The hand of an expert is required in this art, and in the 
use of henna it must be remembered that after the first 
dyeing unless the process is continued the most incredible 
shades appear, green, violet, and a queer copper color, mak- 
ing the appearance so weird that it is impossible to be seen 
in public places, until the color has worn off. 

For bleaching the hair the agent most popular is per- 
oxide of hydrogen, and if properly used it may at least be 
said to be harmless, though the color produced is never at 
all natural and the constant touching up required becomes 
most monotonous. The application of the peroxide is most 
simple, and is easily made by the use of a small brush. The 
hair is first washed carefully and the peroxide poured into 
a saucer and the mixture applied. One application produces 
a great change and more may be made as necessary. Am- 
monia is added in some instances, but it simply hastens the 
process and cannot do good while it does much harm by 
drying the locks. After the hair is thoroughly bleached, it 
needs constant watching to keep it in presentable condition. 



THE SKIN. 219 

It must remain as light as it is always, unless it is allowed 
to grow out the natural color again, or unless it is dyed. 
After it is dyed it is impossible to rebleach it without caus- 
ing the most disagreeable complications. 

The use of peroxide to lighten or brighten auburn hair is 
harmless and effective, and it may be used to advantage by 
using an equal quantity of water and applying it to the hair 
after a shampoo, then fanning until it is dry. Muddy, 
brown hair may also be brightened in the same way without 
injuring it. 

A good dye for gray hair or rather one that will restore 
the natural color is hard to describe. The following recipe 
is said to be extremely effective, and at any rate has the 
advantage of being less harmful than most of the dyes. 

HAIR DYE. 

Southern wood ij^tb 

Olive oil i qt 

Port wine I pt 

Bruise the wood and boil it in the olive oil and strain 
through a cloth. Get fresh quantities of the wood and re- 
peat the operation twice. Then add the port wine and 
allow it to stand several days before using. This is too 
oily to suit most people so the next recipe will be more popu- 
lar. It is said to have been advocated by Lola Montez. 

INSTANTANEOUS HAIR DYE. 

Gallic acid 10 gr 

Tinct. sesquichloride or iron I § 

Acetic acid . i § 

Dissolve the gallic acid in the sesquichloride and add the 
acetic acid, wash the hair and apply dye when it is thor- 
oughly dry. 

Other dyes extremely popular contain excess of lead, 



220 THE SKIN. 

and as there are numerous cases on record where dyes of 
this description have caused death or perhaps that affliction 
even worse than death, paralysis, it is well to be careful in 
applying any mixture to the scalp unless one has some 
knowledge of its properties. The dye safest to use is that 
not applied to the scalp but to the hair, and which may be 
used as often as required. The best dyes as a rule come in 
two portions marked either A and B or i and 2, and are 
used in the following manner : 

After the hair has been thoroughly cleansed with soap 
and water and then dried the solution marked A is applied 
with a small brush, drawing it from the roots to the tips 
and saturating the hair well. It is then allowed to dry, 
and as soon as possible the second solution applied, using a 
different brush for the process. The hair is again dried, if 
possible in the sun, and in twenty-four hours the super- 
fluous dye is washed off with warm water. Most of the 
trouble coming from the use of dyes may be traced to this 
last point. Many people imagine that it is useless to wash 
off the dye the next day and allow it to remain, thus caus- 
ing much injury to the hair. In order to produce just the 
desired shade a most accurate knowledge of chemistry is 
necessary, hence the difficulty in preparing any of the dyes 
that are supposed to change the hair from one shade to 
any other. 

The woman who desires to obtain the best results should 
get the most reliable preparation, and if possible have its 
action explained to her. If she cannot afford to have a com- 
petent hair dresser apply the dye she should follow the 
directions to the letter and the results may be very pleasing. 
The shampoo should be made imperative, as it is almosf 
impossible to apply any dye and have it act properly unless 
the hair is washed. Another point of importance is the 



THE SKIN. 221 

kind of shampoo used. One that will not produce com- 
plications by inducing peculiar combinations of chemicals 
is, of course, necessary, and hence it is well always to use 
a mixture, the ingredients of which are known. For that 
reason the shampoo mixture mentioned in a previous chap- 
ter will be the best for general use. 

In using any dye the skin of the face should not be 
touched by the liquid, and the dress should be protected by 
a rubber cloth, while the hands will, of course, be encased 
in rubber gloves. The bottles containing the staining mix- 
tures should be placed on metallic trays or on something 
that cannot be discolored, and the utmost care taken not to 
allow drops of the dye to be spattered on the clothing or 
carpet or anything that may be injured. A little expe- 
rience very speedily shows the average woman that the art 
of dyeing the hair is one that deserves recognition as a 
most difficult and delicate process, unless there exists that 
natural adaptability that enables one to know intuitively 
just what to do and how to do it. 

Finally, although there are given so many precautions 
and warnings, it is not fair to frighten those who feel the 
necessity of using dyes, for there are thousands of people 
who have used them successfully for years without any in- 
jury to either the scalp or hair. The process is a peculiar 
one, and it must be done with the greatest of attention to 
minute detail if it is to be pleasing. This performed, the 
results will be as desired. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

HOW TO GROW THIN. 

The woman who carries in addition to the regulation 
number of burdens, that additional one — superfluous flesh — 
has indeed a right to demur. 

For her, life can never be exceedingly comfortable. Every 
effort tires her. Changes in temperature may mean actual 
suffering, and physically she can never be at her best while 
this huge load of fat presses on all of the vital organs, short- 
ening her breath, impeding the action of the heart and 
liver, and almost invariably producing some serious com- 
plication. 

The accumulation of flesh usually commences about the 
age of twenty-eight, sometimes a little earlier or later, and 
though frequently found in people inclined to be physically 
indolent, there are exceptions to this rule, for the busy 
housewives are often quite monumental in appearance, 
though leading active lives. In such instances the food, and 
body exercises and baths will be found of the greatest im- 
portance in the process of reducing flesh. 

In respect to this question, as in many others, the various 
authorities have met success in different ways, although 
they have all agreed upon the main items. There are many 
phases to be considered in this work before attempting it, 
and among the most important are those regarding the dan- 
ger to the physical well-being by reducing so rapidly that 
the organs may be weakened. This rapid process is almost 
inevitably the result of taking strong drugs, and the 
thoughtful person will hardly care to consider such a course. 
Bathing, too, may be dangerous if the temperature of the 



THE SKIN. 223 

bath is high enough to cause increased heart action in one 
whose heart is already weakened, while exercising must be 
undertaken with caution and according to set rules, if it is 
to be of benefit. 

After considering well the phases to be avoided, the 
student should first learn the theory of treatment, then fol- 
low it, and inevitably she will find herself wonderfully im- 
proved in health as well as greatly decreased in weight. 
Even with organic troubles, those who are too heavy may 
manage to become a great deal smaller, while ordinary, fat 
people can easily make themselves just what they desire to 
be if they will but persevere in the treatments indicated. 

The cause of obesity is said to be a disturbance of cell 
activity. An over-use of carbo-hydrates tends to increase 
the fat greatly, while alcoholic stimulants or an excessive 
diet of fats and starches also aid in this work. 

The effects of obesity may be seen in the sluggish con- 
dition of the circulation, torpid liver, weakened heart and 
kidneys and disinclination to exertion, both mental and 
physical. The vital capacity is also much less, and experi- 
ment has shown that for every kilo of weight above the 
average, there is a corresponding decrease of 37 c. c. in this 
respect. 

In reducing the flesh the dietetic treatment is all-impor- 
tant, and should be carried out accordingly, with due regard 
to the necessity for systematic bathing and exercising as 
well. The best method is naturally that which not only 
reduces but also performs the work without weakening the 
patient. In some instances' where there is anemia present 
with weakness of the heart, the treatment must be an in- 
vigorating one, and in all methods there should be exercised 
an effort to avoid measures that are too severe to be con- 
sistent with health. 



224 THE SKIN. 

Banting, Ebstein and Oertel are the most quoted author- 
ities on this subject, and each plan has certain advantages, 
but none can be used in all cases. A strict avoidance of all 
the foods of a certain nature is apt also to impair the diges- 
tive properties, so in general practice it is well to limit the 
diet, but also to use as many articles as possible in strict mod- 
eration. For instance, the u^e of sweets may be supplied 
by saccharine, the starchy foods may be represented by the 
bread and the peas and beans allowed, thus making the diot 
a mixed one. The following list will be found sufficient 
for the majority of cases. 

BREAKFAST. 

One tgg, either poached or boiled, one cup of coffee or 
tea sweetened with saccharine if necessary, toasted bread, 
wheat bread, or graham, 2 ounces fruits, such as oranges, 
grape fruit, or apples. (One only being allowed.) 

Immediately after breakfast a two-mile walk should be 
taken if possible, if not, the use of the body exercises may 
be tried, paying especial attention to those calling for bend- 
ing, such as I, II, III and IV. This work should consume 
at least fifteen minutes, and following the exercises the 
body should be sponged off with salt water. 

Two hours after time of meal a glass of some mineral 
water should be taken, preferably Vichy one day, Kissingen 
the next. 

NOON MEAL. 

Soup, 3 ounces ; fish, 3 ounces ; roast or boiled beef, 
veal, game or poultry, 6 to 8 ounces; green vegetables, 2 
ounces ; bread, 1 ounce ; fruit, 3 or 4 ounces ; 4 to 5 ounces 
of any light wine. No liquid aside from this is to be taken 
with the meal. 

Two hours after meal a glass of mineral water. 



THE SKIN. 225 



EVENING MEAL. 



Caviar, iy 2 ounces; i to 2 soft-boiled eggs; beefsteak, 
fowl or game, 5 ounces; salad, 1 ounce; cheese, 1 dram; 
bread, 1 ounce ; fruit, or water, 5 ounces. 
- Before retiring, a complete body bath in warm water may 
be taken and the entire body well scrubbed with soap and 
water, followed by a cold sponge, unless the action of the 
cold water is unendurable. Following the bath, the breath- 
ing exercises may be practiced, especially the last four, al- 
though all of them will be found excellent. 

In twenty-four hours after the beginning of this pro- 
gram, weight will have been lost, and the decrease should 
be steady until the average weight has been reached, when 
the strict process can, of course, be stopped, and by atten- 
tion to food and exercise the accumulation of flesh dis- 
couraged. 

In connection with exercising and bathing, care must 
be taken to prevent the skin from becoming withered or 
flabby after this loss of flesh, and hence at least once a week 
a thorough massage of the body should be given, while mas- 
sage of the face and neck should be an everyday affair, 
for this follow the directions given in chapters on massage. 

In cases of nervous dyspepsia, the use of electricity 
has been most beneficial, and the current may be used over 
the spine, at back of head, and upon the diaphragm with 
most excellent results. 

Bodily exercise is, of course, of much importance, and 
persistence means that where the flesh was, firm muscles 
will exist, and the creases and crevices so dangerous to 
beauty will not appear. For those who feel that the decrease 
in flesh endangers the appearance, the following lotion may 
be used with extremely good effect. It is best applied after 
the evening bath. 



226 THE SKIN. 

Rose water . . . , 8 g 

Tinct. of benzoin i 3 

Milk of almonds 2 § 

Sulphate of aluminum y 2 % 

Dissolve thoroughly and filter until clear. Keep in a 
dark bottle in a cool place and apply with a sponge daily. 

The cold sponge is especially recommended after the 
ordinary warm bath, and even the most delicate may in 
time accustom themselves to this by commencing with the 
use of tepid water, and gradually adding the colder until 
the desired temperature has been reached. Salt may be 
added to the water with very good effect or the towels may 
be dipped in a saturated solution of salt allowed to dry and 
then used to scrub the body with. The effect of this fric- 
tion is most beneficial. 

The following table of weights is the one most generally 
accepted, and any great deviation from this either way 
should be corrected as being inconsistent with health. The 
normal woman should not vary more than two or three 
pounds from these figures. If she does, her only remedy 
is a strict observance of the rules given for the correction 
of this condition. 

5 feet i inch 120 to 123 pounds 

5 feet 2 inches 126 to 128 pounds 

5 feet 3 inches 133 to 135 pounds 

5 feet 4 inches 136 to 138 pounds 

5 feet 5 inches 142 to 144 pounds 

5 feet 6 inches 145 to 147 pounds 

5 feet 7 inches 149 to 151 pounds 

5 feet 8 inches 155 to 157 pounds 

5 feet 9 inches 162 to 165 pounds 

5 feet 10 inches 169 to 171 pounds 

5 feet 11 inches 174 to 176 pounds 

6 feet 178 to 182 pounds 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

HOW TO BECOME PLUMP. 

The thin woman may glory in being willowy in her 
youth, but as in the early thirties she sees the deep creases 
and. the tiny lines that appear with the evident determina- 
tion of acquiring a permanent position, there also comes 
the desire to acquire a few pounds of flesh to assist in cov- 
ering the too apparent bones. 

All wasting diseases will produce this excessive leanness, 
but if there is no trouble of this kind to contend with, and 
no inherited tendency, much can be done toward correcting 
this condition. It is peculiar, to say the least, in studying 
the best measures for putting on flesh to find how many of 
the rules for taking it off must be observed. 

Exercise in the open air is as important for one as for 
the other. The body exercises for development are always 
to be used, while those in breathing, found the very best 
basis for this treatment. Exercises especially beneficial in 
this respect are those in which the abdomen and chest are 
made to expand against pressure. Of course, in perform- 
ing any of these movements care will be observed to carry 
none of them to excess, and to avoid becoming over-ex- 
hausted at any time. 

Bathing may be used almost as extensively as in the 
case of superfluous flesh, with the difference that after the 
use of a very warm bath much time should be employed 
upon the massage of the body, using as much oil or skin 
food as the pores will absorb. After a bath of this kind 
much rest should be taken and a light lunch eaten before 



228 THE SKIN. 

dressing. For instance, a glass of milk and a roll or two, 
or poached eggs and cocoa or a glass of ale will be found 
excellent foods for this condition. 

The bath, most beneficial for this purpose, is that ob- 
tained by pouring into the tub two quarts of bran, and 
allowing it to remain in the warm water for twenty minutes 
before entering. This bran may be used for rubbing the 
body by mixing it with castile soap, and after a vigorous 
friction, the body should remain in the water for at least 
twenty minutes, finishing with a thorough massage of the 
entire body. 

Each day after luncheon, a rest should be taken 
and upon rising if there is any appetite for food, a cup of 
chocolate or glass of milk or tea with toast may be taken. 
Much sleep is extremely beneficial, as the majority of thin 
people are exceedingly active, and do not get the rest they 
require. 

Many women have found the use of porter or ale to be 
most beneficiaJ, but. as the use of these stimulants is often 
attended by a desire for something of the kind constantly, it 
is well to use remedies less apt to be attended with bad 
after-effects. Any sour wine such as claret or Rhine, or 
the use of the many acid fruits, such as lemons, oranges, 
grape fruit or limes should be avoided. 

When the one who is thin is also exceedingly nervous, 
sufficient rest must be made a positive law, with the use of 
electricity if her nerves seem entirely beyond control and a 
tonic of hypophosphites to assist in toning up the system. 
The following diet will be found the best in most conditions. 

BREAKFAST. 

Cup of tea or coffee with as much cream and milk as 
can possibly be employed. Any of the cereal foods, berries 
or fruit with sugar, baked potatoes and a lamb chop. 



THE SKIN. 229 

This menu will seem rather elaborate to many, as the 
"no breakfast" fad is widespread, and both corpulent and 
emaciated women have accustomed themselves to either 
nothing at all in the morning or one cup of coffee 
with perhaps a slice of unbuttered toast. All thin people 
should make an effort to make this morning meal a sub- 
stantial one, as it does more to keep up the strength and 
prevent undue strain than any other meal in the day. 

In the middle of the morning after exercise in the open 
air it is well again to take a light lunch and this may consist 
of toasted crackers with a glass of milk or eggnogg. After 
this lunch, of course, the ordinary occupations may be pur- 
sued as usual, and at noon the following menu will be 
found the best. 

LUNCHEON. 

Potatoes, any of the green vegetables, omelette, bread 
and butter and fruits, cold meats and milk, chocolate, or 
cocoa, or milk. 

After lunch a rest of at least one-half hour should be 
taken, or if possible a long nap, followed by a lunch during 
the middle of the afternoon. 

DINNER. 

Any of the nourishing soups, fish of any kind, meats, 
such as rare, roast beef, chicken, sweets and fruits. Beer, 
porter, Burgundy or a little sweet Champagne may be taken. 

After dinner a little light exercise should follow, and 
especial care should be used to avoid making the hours for 
retiring late. The warm bath, as described, can well be 
taken at night with the careful massage following and a 
glass of milk may be taken just before retiring for the night. 

The diet in all cases will be found to be most important, 
and excesses should be guarded against. Although sweets 



230 THE SKIN. 

are fattening, too many are apt to cause emaciation, just as 
surely as the average use encourages corpulency. In nearly 
every case of extreme thinness, the patient is found to have 
a peculiar appetite. Rarely is there observed a healthful 
longing for food best suited to her condition. The desire 
may be for sweets or for sour fruits or pickles, but it is 
invariably for something that will injure the digestion. 

Tendencies of this kind may be overcome by persistent 
effort and determination. If necessary, a good tonic may 
be employed to aid in the work. In any event, the deter- 
mination to acquire a healthy appetite may be met with 
success, if sufficient interest is shown in the matter. 

The matter of nerves must be especially considered in 
these instances, and if the subject is extremely irritable, 
allowing every small matter to disturb her, she must simply 
call a halt in her round of duties by weeding out every un- 
necessary task, and spending sufficient time to thoroughly 
cultivate that state of calm and repose necessary to peace of 
mind. The rest cure may be taken in the heart of the city 
as well as in the quiet of the country, for wherever there 
is sufficient will, there is bound to be success, and this may 
be easily proved by any one who will make the effort. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

PHYSIOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT. 

It is not alone for the benefit obtained in acquiring a 
graceful carriage, or in the symmetrical development of the 
body, that the proper system of exercising is advocated ; but 
chiefly on account of the positive increase in both mental 
and physical capacity for sustained effort, obtained by those 
who have the will to adopt, and the perseverance to prac- 
tice the movements best suited to their needs. 

It cannot be denied that much harm has been done by 
the use of exercises too violent for those with weakened 
constitutions or any organic trouble of the heart. However, 
in teaching of the wonderful results to be obtained from 
this work, full emphasis has been placed upon the absolute 
necessity for caution, and in addition, only the exercises 
that may be attempted with perfect safety have been selected 
for lessons. 

Exercise should not be relegated to young, but should 
be encouraged in the middle-aged and old people as a means 
of preventing fatty changes, and the process of degenera- 
tion peculiar to age, in which the blood vessels wither away 
and thus cause excessive tissue waste. 

These processes may in a great measure be prevented 
by persistent and systematic effort to keep all of the muscles 
in working condition, as well as in maintaining a good cir- 
culation. In this manner the capillaries and blood vessels 
instead of contracting, may be kept at their greatest capac- 
ity, thus insuring sufficient activity. 

The anecdote of the man who commenced lifting the 
calf from the time it was two days old, and thus proved 



232 THE SKIN. 

that when it became a huge animal he could still perform 
the same feat because his muscles had been trained and 
gradually adapted to the increased effort, is a very good 
illustration of what daily work will do for every one. If 
it could be kept up, or rather if it were continued as it 
should be, and proper vigor could be maintained, the man 
of sixty would be far more supple than the boy of sixteen. 

One of the most prominent educators in this country, 
who was opposed to anything in the way of violent exer- 
cise, or indeed even to mild efforts, or anything else, that 
would take him away from his books, has recently been 
made the object of some very curious experiments in order 
to prove that a man of fifty-five could be trained in the 
greatest part of the work done by the college athletes. 
The educator had declared so vigorously that he could 
never be improved by this method of development that 
when a tempting wager was made he finally agreed to 
undergo training for six months, adopting the diet as well 
as the work lined out by the advocate of physiological de- 
velopment. 

At the end of three months the stiff lines and awkward 
gait had been supplanted by an erect carriage and sem- 
blance of ease. Six months found him a different man, not 
only physically but also in regard to capacity for mental 
effort, a matter easily proved, as this new work did not 
interfere with the ordinary duties of life. At this time 
arrangements were made to prolong the training for one 
year, and then to his delight he found he could perform 
the following exercises with ease : 

He could stand on a block eight inches high, and, reach- 
ing down, lay his hands on the floor, palms downward. He 
could lay his hands flat back on his wrists and easily slip 
his toes in his mouth. In addition to these proofs of sup- 



THE SKIN. 233 

pleness he could hold a cane horizontally, clasping each- 
hand about it behind his back and then raise it above his 
head. A trial at raising the hands alone will soon convince 
any one how difficult it must have been to acquire the abil- 
ity to do this last exercise. 

Of course the results of this work were quite suffi- 
cient to make an ardent enthusiast of the educator, and 
as a consequence the athletic portion of the college boys 
soon found an ally who assisted them whenever possible. 

Instances without number may be cited, showing that 
those who are in the habit of exercising habitually will 
not only live longer and happier lives, but will also enjoy 
comparative immunity from sickness and attacks of melan- 
cholia and will be decidedly prone to the comfortable con- 
dition in which neither the extreme of corpulency or emaci- 
ation will be experienced. Twenty minutes spent in this 
work each day will do wonders for any one who is earnest 
in the work within a year's time. The increased interest 
among women is already showing wonderful results in the 
finely proportioned typesstyled the American Girl. 

Especial emphasis should be placed upon the benefits 
to be derived from this work by those who have passed 
middle age. There has been a feeling that all efforts of 
this kind were unavailing excepting during the earlier years, 
and as a consequence the interest has not been as great as 
it should be. No one is ever too old to be benefited to 
some degree by work carried on properly, and every person 
should be convinced of this fact. There are too many in- 
stances of activity among, people who have passed the al- 
loted threescore and ten to make one feel that there is 
anything like an age limit in these enlightened days. 

Full breathing stands at the head of every list as most 
important as well as absolutely necessary to perfect health. 



234 THE SKIN. 

The room one sits in may be filled with fresh air, but 
unless it is taken into the body correctly by an effort that 
shall not only fill the lungs, but also exercise the entire 
abdominal region, breathing is not properly done. In all 
labored respiration, the abdominal muscles act by dimin- 
ishing the abdominal cavity, and pushing the contents up 
against the diaphragm. The contraction of the diaphragm, 
by increasing the intra-abdominal pressure, favors the 
venous blood current in the abdomen toward the venacava 
inferior. Thus the act of breathing correctly and deeply 
is seen to have an immense influence in actively exercising 
the organs so vitally important if health is to be maintained. 

Breathing should be done through the nostrils, because, 
as the current of air passes through the pharyngo-nasal cav- 
ity, it is rendered warm and moist, and the irritation of the 
mucous membranes of the air passages by the cold air is 
prevented. Small particles of soot or other foreign sub- 
stances adhere to and become embedded in the mucous 
covering and are carried outward by the peculiar mechan- 
ism of the respiratory passages, and finally disagreeable 
odor and impurities of the air are detected by the sense of 
smell. 

Oxygen, the great purifier, is present in large quanti- 
ties in fresh air, combined with nitrogen and carbonic 
acid gas — C0 2 . Taken into the body by the means of 
respiration it revivifies the blood, assists in the construc- 
tion of the new tissue as well as in the breaking down of 
old. Air once breathed has been deprived of a great part 
of its oxygen, and possesses a marked increase in C0 2 . 
Hence, in order to take in as much of the life-giving oxy- 
gen and as little of the inert C0 2 as possible, the same 
air should be breathed but once, thus making perfect ven- 
tilation a necessity in all apartments. 



THE SKIN. 235 

Fresh air is as necessary for the most robust as for the 
weakly, and the allowance of space necessary to secure 
sufficient air for each individual should always be con- 
sidered in respect to the healthful condition of rooms. Or- 
dinarily 800 cubic feet should be allowed for a healthy 
person, and 1,000 cubic feet for one who is sick. In addi- 
tion to the allowance of air, care must be taken to insure 
the free admission of sunlight, in order to get rid of the 
organic matter that is constantly given off. A very good 
illustration of the fact that this organic matter given off 
by means of the breath is filled with numerous bacteria 
may be tried by breathing into a jar of distilled water, and 
then placing the vessel aside. In a very short time the 
water becomes fetid. Hence it will be seen that to insure 
perfect ventilation, as well as the best condition of an 
apartment, both sun and air are required. 

In learning to breathe correctly the exercises should be 
taken in a room previously well ventilated or by an open 
window. Any muscular effort causes an increase in the 
C0 2 given out, so much more care must be exerted to keep 
the pure air in sufficient quantity to make the exercises 
beneficial. The good effects of correct breathing are re- 
markable. Chests expand, stomachs recede, cheeks show 
more color and eyes are brighter, while the general health 
is of course far better. The process of breathing should 
not be spasmodic, but natural, with a certain rhythm. 
Those who puff out their cheeks and go through numerous 
other facial contortions, such as gasping and gurgling, are 
harming themselves in more ways than one, and are do- 
ing absolutely no good. Care must be taken to learn the 
proper method, and then the results will be all that can be 
desired. 

Rapid, violent breathing is to be avoided, as it may 



236 THE SKIN. 

produce serious injury to the pulmonary tissues. Shallow 
breathing is of no benefit whatever, and in this very im- 
portant work every exercise should be performed with the 
mind absolutely concentrated upon the subject, as well as 
with a steady determination to go at the work with the 
intention of producing the effect desired. The time given 
to breathing may be increased from day to day. If exer- 
cises seem too difficult for the first trial they may be made 
easier until finally they can be accomplished with the ut- 
most ease. 

The busy woman, who feels every moment is precious, 
if properly dressed, may practice deep breathing as she 
walks to her daily occupation. With shoulders thrown 
back, head erect and hands at her side she may inhale 
slowly while she counts five, exhale while counting seven, 
and so on until the utmost capacity for the lungs has finally 
been reached. This, of course, means that her clothing 
must be worn so comfortably that the abdominal muscles 
may be used with every breath. 

If the great distance precludes an attempt at walking, 
the breathing exercises may be practiced upon retiring at 
night, and in fact some of the most excellent are performed 
while in a recumbent position. During the day, if the 
head feels heavy and there is a sensation of weariness that 
makes the work drag, five minutes of deep breathing by the 
open window will send the blood bounding through the 
veins and so* clear the brain that the capacity for accom- 
plishing is almost doubled. 

So enthusiastic are the advocates of correct breathing 
that it is said one of the foremost actresses attributes a 
great part of her success to her knowledge of this art. If 
tried beyond her strength by some strongly emotional art, 
or if feeling unequal to the work before her, she imme- 



THE SKIN. 237 

diately gets into the open air for long enough to practice 
inhaling and exhaling ten deep breaths, and returns feel- 
ing refreshed and invigorated. 

It is frequently impossible for any person of ordinary 
environment to go through the long and vigorous courses 
prescribed by those who make a specialty of this work. 
Hence in giving the following exercises care has been taken 
to select those that will sufficiently exercise the vital organs 
as well as the muscles and yet w r ill not be in any way in- 
jurious. Many excellent exercises will need to be omitted, 
simply because it is impossible for any one to do them with- 
out instruction. However, if these that are given are prac- 
ticed as they should be there will be found little need of 
anything else. Every woman, no matter what her occupa- 
tion, needs to learn and practice deep breathing. The fol- 
lowing examples will suffice as illustrations of the most 
important portions of this work. 

Exercise I. Assume a recumbent position by lying flat 
on the couch or floor and relaxing all of the muscles. Then 
inhale slowly through the nostrils, and as deliberately ex- 
hale. Place the hands lightly on the abdomen, and if the 
breath is taken correctly the abdominal muscles will 
become inflated first, then the chest. In order to make 
the work rhythmical commence by mentally counting five 
while inhaling, and seven while exhaling. Repeat five 
times, gradually adding to the count as the strength in- 
creases, and always being careful to perform the work 
methodically. This exercise is excellent for practice in 
inflating the lungs properly and may be practiced in bed 
before rising, thus commencing the day well. 

Exercise II. Still in a recumbent position exhale fully, 
pressing lightly with both hands upon the abdomen. In- 
hale fully, resisting pressure, which should increase with 



238 



THE SKIN. 



each time the exercise is performed. These two exercises 
will make the diaphragm strong and elastic, and the en- 
tire lung tissue will be expanded. Repeat this five times 
at first, increasing gradually. 

Exercise III. Assume military position. In order to 
ascertain if this is properly done, stand with the body 
touching the wall, and if the back of head, shoulders, but- 
tocks and heels touch, the attitude is correct. Then place 




Figure I. 



Figure II. 



hands on side close to armpits, as illustrated in Figure I, 
and resist expansion of side muscles. Exhale with pres- 
sure still continued, and during the exercise proceed with 
mental counting, as directed in first exercise. Perform 
five times. 

Exercise IV. Assume attitude as in Figure I. placing 
hands on upper part- of chest and again inhale against the 



. -.- 



- 



pressure of the hands, exhale without the pressure. Con- 
tinue the counting as before and use the same number of 

Exerc : — . ^ume attitude seen in Figure II, and 








inhale while raising the hands straight out and up. exhale 

while coming back to original position. Continue counting 
This work ellent for raising the chest 

walls and for lengthening the waisL 

Ex YL Assume the attitude of Figure II, and 

;. i ■ . * " c : ~ - ■ . . 

bringing them up to original position. Continue counting 
before, and after the fir- ^eccHld trial exert a Httfc 

pressure, bringing them up against this and relaxing as 

the an: - g iown. 



240 



THE SKIN. 



Exercise VII. Assume position of Figure III, throw- 
ing the head back as far as possible, and interlacing the 
fingers back of the head. Fill the lungs to the utmost ca- 
pacity, hold the breath, and then resist, and in spite of 
resistance pull the head downward, at the same time ex- 
haling. This is rather violent and cannot be done success- 
fully at first. In beginning, two trials will be sufficient, 
gradually arriving at five and never performing any more 
than this number of exercises at any lesson. 

Exercise VIII. Assume position shown in Figure I, 





Figure V. Figure VI. 

with hands at side, a'nd exhale all of the air from the lungs. 
While holding them empty draw in the abdomen as much 
as possible, and then extend it forward to its greatest ca- 
pacity. Do this as rapidly and as often as control over 



THE SKIN. 241 

respiration will permit. It will strengthen the stomach and 
will reduce superfluous flesh over abdomen as no other 
method can. This ends the exercises in breathing, and as 
these are positively the best to be obtained the student who 

learns them correctly and prac- 
tices them methodically will be 
positive of improvement. 
In practicing breathing, a feel- 
ing of dizziness is often experi- 
enced, and in some instances the 
action of the heart is greatly in- 
creased. In such an event, do not 
attempt to work until every un- 
comfortable sensation has depart- 
ed, for it will not benefit. The 
average rate of inspiration is from 
ten to twelve seconds, with fifteen 
for exhalation. It is not neces- 
sary for the average person to de- 
velop too greatly, so when this point is reached it maybe 
as well to continue the work at about this rate. After a 
week or so of systematic effort the exercises may be per- 
formed with ease in a very short time, and the vital ca- 
pacity will be found surprisingly increased. 




CHAPTER XXXI. 
BODY MOVEMENTS. 

Fully one-half the ailments that perturb the feminine 
portion of the world could be avoided if women would but 
be persuaded to exercise properly. If, in addition, they 
w r ould eat wisely, bathe systematically and rest when neces- 
sary the number of invalids would indeed be few. 

Happily for the advocates of "healthful living/' the 
proper system of exercising is usually a means to an end, 
and after the proper system of exercising has been taught, 
the pupils, in delight at the improvement in appearance and 
in capacity for work as well as enjoyment, are usually only 
too anxious to proceed in the path outlined. Thus the evo- 
lution of the best system may be insured. 

The world of to-day is an exceedingly busy one. Nearly 
every one is engrossed in a mad endeavor to accomplish 
some purpose, and this object usually requires every spare 
moment of time. The lined brows, nervous, twitching eyes 
and pallid cheeks of these victims of modern progress point 
only too plainly to the price paid for the accomplishment. 
This condition is not limited to any particular class, for in 
every grade of society the number of overworked are to be 
found. The busy housewife, nervous society woman, tired 
clerk and overworked teacher acknowledge the need for rest 
and change, but fail to find leisure in which to make an 
effort toward improvement. As a consequence the number 
of interested workers in the realm of physiological develop- 
ment is correspondingly small, and some plan must be de- 
vised by which the work may be made possible for all 
classes. 



THE SKIN. 243 

In the preceding exercises the attention has been paid 
more particularly to the development of the lungs, improve- 
ment of circulation and exercise of abdominal muscles with 
a view to strengthening the diaphragm. These that follow 
will be particularly adapted to strengthening the muscles 
of the arms, legs and back, and will be excellent for produc- 
ing a symmetrical development of the figure and a reduc- 
tion of superfluous flesh. 

Exercise I. Assume position of Figure II, and then 
bend from side to side, as illustrated in Figure IV, keeping 
the knees rigid and heels together. This exercise should 
be performed at least twenty times with arms outstretched 
as seen in illustration. Reduction of the hips will follow 
the use of this exercise, and also a lengthening of the waist 
line. 

Exercise II. Assume military position, as illustrated 
in Figure I. Then stand with the feet apart and the toe of 
one slightly raised as the hands on one side slips down 
toward the knee while the other is kept under the arm. 
Alternate this work first on one side, then on the other, as 
the one hand conies up, the other must slide down, until 
this has been done twenty times. This is called "lifting the 
liver" and is excellent for curing constipation. 

Exercise III. Assume positions shown in line draw- 
ings, A, B, C. First the military attitude as in A, placing 
hands on back of chair. Then raise on tiptoes, as shown 
in Figure B, and descend into a sitting position, as shown 
in Figure C. In this work, ascend on the toes as high as 
possible and descend as near the ground as can be, all of 
the time keeping the body erect and steady. A very good 
way to perform this work is by placing a book or some 
other object on the head and attempt to do the work in this 
manner. In this way the erect position will be maintained. 
Repeat until the muscles ache. 



244 



THE SKIN. 



Exercise IV. Assume position of Figure £), raising the 
arms high over the head, bringing them forward in a sweep 
and touching the toes without bending the knees, as in Fig- 
ure E. This will seem very difficult at first, but after a 
short time can be easily done. 

Exercise V. Repeat same exercise, but twist the body 
to the side, and attempt to touch the heels instead of the 
toes. Repeat, first on the left side and then on the right. 
This is extremely difficult and may require too much exer- 
tion from some beginners, so should be attempted once at 
the first lesson and never done more than three times in 



succession. 





Fig. A. Fig. B. 



Fig. C. 



Fig. D. 



Fig. E. 



Exercise VI. While in bending position illustrated in 
Figure E, bring the hands against pressure, out at each 
side, and up as far as possible. Do this at least five times. 

Exercise VII. Raise the hands above the head, as in 
Figure D. Turn the arms until the palms meet over the 
head, lower them with palms still upward, until on a level 
with the shoulders, and then drop them to sides. This ex- 
ercise rests the heart and is best performed during the 
course of exercises rather than at the beginning or end. 



THE SKIN. 245 

Exercise VIII. Take attitude shown in Figure V, and 
bend with hands held above the head as far backward and 
as far forward as possible without changing position of 
hands or allowing the knees to bend. In this exercise first 
one foot is advanced and then the other, and the work is 
continued until at least twenty trials have been made. 

Exercise IX. This is excellent to make the body supple 
and should be practiced diligently. Figure VI illustrates 
nicely just the position to be maintained. The weight 
rests on one foot and the toe of the other just misses the 
ground, the limb being held stretched out as far as possible, 
while a rotary motion of the entire body is practiced until 
a semi-circle is described. 

This work may be done first with one foot extended, 
then the other, and in time will be found very easy. 

Exercise X. In this, the practice of balance is made 
possible by taking pose seen in Figure VII and by attempt- 
ing to touch the floor with a handkerchief in the hand on 
same side that knee is kept rigid, while the other hand is 
held in such a manner that balance may be maintained. 

This will need to be attempted many times before suc- 
cess crowns one's efforts. 

Of course there are countless changes on the exercises 
enumerated, as well as many that are entirely different. It 
would require so much time to perform all of them that not 
one person in a hundred would even dream of attempting 
them, hence just those most practical have been given. 

In beginning, perhaps .twenty minutes day and night 
will be required in order to perform the work well. After 
some little practice, twenty or twenty-five minutes will be 
quite sufficient for this purpose. It must be remembered 
in this work that symmetrical development means the equal 
development of all parts of the body. Hence in exercising 



246 THE SKIN. 

there can be no favoritism shown, but, instead, the work 
must be done as directed. In this way every muscle will 
be sufficiently employed. The saying that- "it is not what 
we know, but what we do with what we know that makes 
success in business, love or health," is fully exemplified in 
this work of developing the body. Perseverance is a most 
necessary part of any attempt of this kind and will make 
the results exactly what they are desired to be. 



N. B. — It has been the aim of the author to make this 
book a practical method of instruction for all women who 
wish to work correctly. Any points that are not clearly 
understood will be cheerfully explained to all who ad- 
dress their communications to 

EMILY LLOYD, 

Suite 720, Western Methodist Book Concern Bldg., 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Abnormally Sensitive Skin 92 

Advisability of Using Discretion in Work 18 

After-Treatment by Electricity 63 

Almonda Cream 26 

Anecdote of Educator 233 

Ancient Customs in Regard to Ointments 21 

Appearance of Normal Skin 15 

Appearance of Pure Oils 25 

Appliances that Cause Wrinkles 33 

Approaching Age 16 

Antiquity of Powder 101 

Arms, How to Improve 175 

Art of Bathing 106 

Astringent, How Used 63 

Attainment of Perfect Development 42 

Bad Breath 186 

iBand, Head 137 

Bandaging Feet for Removing Inflammation 191 

Bandaging Inflamed Joint 195 

Banishing the Crows' Feet 33 

Bath, Bran 108 

Bath, Electric 108 

Bath, Faradic 109 

Battery for Office Work 122 

Battery, Fourteen Dry Cell 121 

Battery Fluid 128 

Battery, Ideal 125 

Battery, Mcintosh, Dry Cell 148 

Battery, Section of Faradic 131 

Battery, Section of Galvanic 129 

Battery, Simplest Form 119 

Bathing, The Art of 106 

Bath, Liquid 107 

Bathing Powder 103 

Bath, Sulphur 108 

Benefit to be Found by Dieting 223 

Benefit Derived from Electric Needle 73 

Best Needle to Use 139 

Blackheads 64 

Blackheads, How to Cure 78 

Blackheads, How to Remove 66 



INDEX. 249 

PAGE 

Blackheads, How to Treat 67 

Blackheads, Special Massage for 65 

Bland Ointment 213 

Blanching the Skin 151 

Bleaching Hair on Arms 176 

Bleaching the Hair 216 

Bleaching Liquid for Moth Patch 83 

Bleaching Lotion for Nails 173 

Bleaches, Powerful Cause Cauterization , 16 

Bleaching the Skin 153 

Body Movements . 242 

Bran Bath 108 

Bran Shampoo , 200 

Brush, Proper for Teeth 186 

Breath, Bad 186 

Breathing, Full 233 

Breathing through Nostrils 235 

Buffer, Use of 171 

Busy Women May Exercise 236 

Care of the Feet 189 

Care of the Hands 161 

Care of the Hair 197 

Care of Neck 177 

Care of Skin 21 

Cause of Age Lines 34 

Causes of Obesity 223 

Cauterization, Produced by Powerful Bleaches 16 

Caution in Using Proper Pole 146 

Certainty of Improvement in Using Proper Treatment 63 

Chilblains 196 

Chin, Treated by Rotary Motion 60 

Cheeks, How Massaged 59 

Chloasma 82 

Cleansing and Opening Pimples 69 

Cleansing of Scalp 199 

Cleansing Mixture for Sensitive Skin 93 

Clipping Hair 208 

Cold Water for Puffiness of Eyes 59 

Combined Office Plate. . . 124 

Comedone Extractor ", 67 

Comedone Extractor, Use of 68 

Constipation a 77 

Contents, Table of ' 9 

Correct Breathing 236 

Corn Cure 192 

Coarse Pores 90 

Cosmetic Defects of Mouth 182 

Cosmetics, Harmful , 32 



250 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Cost of Recharging Battery 122 

Cream, Almonda .' 26 

Creams Afford Protection 20 

Creams Are Necessary 20 

Creme Celeste 26 

Cream, Cucumber 29 

Creams Do Not Cause Growth of Hair 22 

Cream, Delight of Harem "27 

Cream for Eruptions 29 

Cream, Traveler's Comfort 100 

Cream, Strawberry 28 

Cucumber Cream 29 

Cup, Sterilized 47 

Cure of Blackheads, Pimples, etc 74 

Cure of Corns 194 

Current, Electric, Direction of 119 

Current, Electric, How Produced 119 

Current, Galvanic, How to Detect 130 

Customs of Ancients in Regard to Ointments 21 

Dandruff, Removal of 211 

Dandruff, Simple Shampoo for 213 

Dandruff, Tonic for 213 

Dandruff or Scurf, Treatment of 209 

Dandruff, Varieties of 210 

Danger of Producing Scars in Removing Hair 126 

Dedication 2 

Defects, Cosmetic of Mouth 182 

Delight of the Harem, Cream 27 

Depilatory Forceps 135 

Depilatory, for Use on Arms 176 

Deep Lines on Neck 60 

Deep Massage for Pimples 69 

Dentifrice, Powdered 185 

Dentifrice, Liquid 185 

Development, Physiological 232 

Diet Advised for Oily Skins 87 

Diet and Directions for Home Work on Blackheads 74 

Diet List for Increasing Flesh 229 

Diet List for Reducing Flesh 224 

Difficulty in Massaging Mouth 60 

Direction of Electric Current 119 

Directions for Home Work on Blackheads 74 

Discretion Advisable in Caring for Skin 18 

Disc, Needle, for Removing Naevi 147 

Discolorations of Skin 151 

Disguise for Red Hands 165 

Dry and Flabby Skins 92 

Dry Cell Batteries , 11 



INDEX. 251 

PAGE 

Dry Cell Combined Battery 121 

Dry Cell, Mcintosh Battery 148 

Dusting Powder for Moist Hands 165 

Dye, Instantaneous Hair 219 

Dyeing the Hair 216 

Dyes, Vegetable and Organic 217 

Effect of Advancing Years on Hair Growth 22 

Egg Shampoo 201 

Electricity, as an After-Treatment 63 

Electric Current, How Produced 119 

Electric Disturbance 118 

Electric Battery, Ideal 125 

Electric Battery, Simplest Form 119 

Electric Bath 108 

Electric Brush for Treating Scalp 204 

Electric Current, Direction of 119 

Electricity, Use of 118 

Electrolysis, Outfit for 147 

Electrolysis for Removing Hair 133 

Electrolysis for Removing Moles 142 

Emphasis on Gentle Treatment 35 

Enlarging the Breasts 178 

Erasing the Long Lines 43 

Eruptions, Complicating Use of Electric Needle 128 

Exercise for Busy Women 236 

Exercises to be Practiced 237 

Experiment in Producing Electricity 118 

Experienced Worker Has Knowledge 21 

External Applications Necessary 17 

Face, Prepared for Massage 41 

Failure to Obtain Current from Battery 132 

Faradic Bath 109 

Faradic Battery, Section of 131 

Faradic Massage 154 

Faradone, Use of 159 

Feet Bandaged, for Inflammation 191 

Feet, Care of 189 

Feet, Massage of 190 

Feet, Perspiration of 196 

File, Use of 163 

Finding Hair Follicle 138 

First Sign of Approaching Age 16 

Flabby Skins 92 

Fluid, for Battery 128 

Forceps, Depilatory 135 

For Painful Joints 192 

Foot Tonic 191 



252 INDEX. 

PAG 

Freckles, Tan and Sunburn 96 

Fresh Air 236 

Full Breathing 233 

Galvanic Battery, Section of 129 

Galvanic Current, Use of 150 

Galvanic Current, How to Detect 130 

Galvanic Current, Use for Bleaching 150 

Galvanic Current, Used for Removing Superfluous Hair 135 

Galvanic Current for Removing Moles 142 

Galvanic Current, Strength Used 144 

Galvanic and Faradic Plate 124 

Galvanic Plate 123 

Gentle Treatment in Facial Work Emphasized 35 

Green Soap, Tincture of 75 

Growth of Hair as Years Advance 22 

Growth of Hair not Caused by Creams 22 

Gums, Treatment of 183 

Habit Lines 32 

Hair Brush Electrode 206 

Hair, Care of the 197 

Hair Clipping 208 

Hair Dye 219 

Hair, How to Dye and Bleach 216 

Hair and Scalp, Treatment of 203 

Hair, Vermin in 202 

Hands, Care of the 161 

Harmful Cosmetics 32 

Hard Rubber Needle Holder 135 

Head Band and Magnifying Glass 137 

Head Lamp .". . . 136 

Henna Paste 218 

Healthy Hue of Skin 16 

Heart, Resting the 244 

Hips, How to Reduce 243 

Hollow Spaces on Neck 177 

Home Work in Cure of Blackheads 75 

How to Become Plump 227 

How to Cure Blackheads 78 

How to Detect Galvanic Current 130 

How to Dye and Bleach the Hair 216 

How Electric Current May Be Produced 119 

How to Grow Thin 222 

How to Improve the Arms 175 

How to Improve the Neck and Bust 175 

How to Improve the Shoulders 175 

How to Massage 55 

How to Proceed in Blackhead Work <>4 



INDEX. 253 

PAG 

How to Prepare the Face for Massage 44 

How to Remove Blackheads 67 

How to Remove Moles 142 

How to Remove Superfluous Hair 134 

How to Sterilize 112 

How to Tell a Good Cream 21 

How to Use the Baths 77 

How to Use the Neurotone 159 

How to Use the Water Massage 40 

Hypodermic Syringe, How to Use 70 

Ideal Battery 125 

111 Health and Wrinkles 33 

Illustrations, List of 14 

Important Features of Outfit for Electrolysis 147 

Importance of Using Zinc Ointment 141 

Improvement Certain in Facial Treatments 63 

Incrustations on Teeth 184 

Inflammation of Joint 193 

Ingrown Nails 194 

Irritation Hastens Flaking of Skin 16 

Instantaneous Hair Dye 219 

Instruments, Sterilizing of 112 

Inflammation, Removed by Bandaging Feet . . 191 

Introduction 3 

Jelly, Rose 164 

Jelly, Violet 98 

Joint, Massage of 193 

Knowledge, Valuable, of Experienced Worker 21 

Lanugo, or Wool Hair 22 

Lines of Age . . . , 34 

Lines About the Eyes 46 

Lines Upon the Face 50 

Lines, Caused by Weak Eves 34 

List, Diet, for Increasing Flesh 229 

List, Diet, for Reducing Flesh 224 

Lines on Forehead 57 

Liquid Bath 98 

Liver Patches 82 

Liquid Powder 104 

Lotion for Rough Skin .' . ', 176 

Magnifying Glass 135 

Magnifying Glass on Head Band 137 

Mallet Treatment 60 

Manicure Outfit Necessary 170 

Manner of Making Powder 102 



254 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Manner of Shampooing 200 

Manner of Treating Milia ' 79 

Manufacture of Creams 24 

Massage 39 

Massage of the Eyelid 52 

Massage of Feet 190 

Massage of Joint 193 

Massage of Nose 59 

Massage of Neck 54 

Massage Preserves Youth . . 39 

Massage Roller 156 

Massage Roller, Use of 156 

Massage, Rotary Motion , 49 

Massage of Scalp 207 

Massage with Use of Faradic Current 154 

Massage, Water 40 

Mask for Stippled Skins . . 88 

Masseuse Obtains Results 78 

Mcintosh Dry Cell Battery 148 

Mechanical Appliances, Injurious to Skin 33 

Medici Powder 104 

Naevi, Treatment of 143 

Naevi or Wine Marks 146 

Nail Powder 173 

Nails, Ingrown 194 

Natural Oil of Skin 15 

Neck and Bust, How to Improve 175 

Necessity for Ventilation of Hair 203 

Necessary Utensils in Making Creams 26 

Needle, Best to Use in Electrolysis 139 

Needle, Bulbous Pointed for Electrolysis 141 

Needle Entering Hair Follicle 139 

Needle Disc for Removing Naevi 147 

Needle, Selection of 138 

Negative Current, Why Used 137 

Neglect of Scalp 198 

Nose, How Massaged 59 

Normal Skin 15 

Nutrition of Flesh Improved 65 

Obstinate Freckles 92! 

Oily Skins 86 

Ointments, as Used by Ancient Nations 21 

Ointments, Bland, for Dandruff 213 

Ointment for Vermin in the Hair 202 

Ointment, Zinc 141 

Orange VVood Stick, Use of 166 

Outfit, Important Feature of Electrolysis 147 

Oxygen, a Necessity 235 



7 



INDEX. 255 

PAGE 

Patrician Hand 161 

Pastilles for Breath 187 

Paste for Neck and Shoulders 178 

Paste, Strawberry 28 

Painful Sunburn 99 

Perfect Development, When Attained 42 

Perspiration of Feet 196 

Perfect Teeth 184 

Peroxide of Hydrogen for Muddy Skins 89 

Physiological Development 231 

Pigment Cells 16 

Pimples 67 

Powerful Bleaches Cause Cauterization 16 

Powder, Bathing 103 

Powder for Dusting into Shoes 196 

Positive Pole, How Used 137 

Powerful Remedies for Treating Moth Patch 82 

Removal of Superfluous Hair 133 

Removal of Moles 142 

Resting the Heart 244 

Resuscitation of the Drowned 132 

Results Obtained by Masseuse 78 

Roller 156 

Rotary Motion, On and About Chin 60 

Rose Jelly 164 

Saving the Hands 165 

Scalp, Bland Ointment for 213 

Scalp Cleanser 211 

Scales Cast off Constantly 16 

Scaly, Dry and Flabby Skins 92 

Scalp and Hair, Treatment of 203 

Scalp Massage 207 

Scars, Danger of Producing 126 

Scars Left by Pimples Improperly Treated 71 

Scurf or Dandruff, Treatment of 209 

Section of Faradic Battery 131 

Section of Galvanic Battery 129 

Selection of Needle 138 

Shampoo, Bran 200 

Shampoo Mixture 201 

Shoulders, How to Improve 175 

Simplest Form of Galvanic Cell 119 

Simple Shampoo for Dandruff 213 

Skin, Blanching the 151 

Skin, Bleaching the 153 

Skin, Discolorations of 151 

Skin Food 30 

Skin Possessed of Natural Oil 15 



256 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Smooth Skin after Successful Work 72 

Soap '. '.HO 

Soothing Ointment for Mouth 183 

Solution for Receding Gums 184 

Stick Polish, Use of 169 

Stimulating the Skin by Faradic Current 155 

Stimulating Tonic 205 

Stippled and Sallow Skins 86 

Sterilizing Instruments 112 

Sterilization of Massage Cup 44 

Strawberry Cream 28 

Strawberry Paste 28 

Street Current with Rheostat 124 

Strengthening the Muscles < 243 

Subject to Sterilizing Instruments 112 

Substitutes for Oils 23 

Success of Treatments, Properly Given 19 

Sulphur Bath 108 

Sunburn 96 

Systematic Work Valuable 41 

Table of Contents 9 

Table of Correct Body Weights 225 

Tan and Sunburn 96 

Teeth 181 

Teeth, Perfect 186 

The Ideal Masseuse 39 

The Mouth and Teeth 181 

Thickness of Skin ? 15 

Tincture of Green Soap 75 

Tinting Powder 103 

Tonic for Dandruff 213 

Tonic for Oily Scalp . . 214 

Tonic for Stimulating Hair 205 

Toothache Remedy 187 

Travelers' Comfort Cream 100 

Traveling Made Comfortable by Creams 20 

Treatment of Dandruff or Scurf 209 

Treatment of Pimples 71 

Treatment of Moles, Warts and Naevi 143 

Treatments, Properly Given, Successful 19 

Treatment of Scalp and Hair 203 

Use of Astringent 61 

Use of Buffer 171 

Use of Creams, When Traveling 20 

Use of Electricity . 118 

Use of the Faradic Current 154 

Use of the Faradone 159 

Use of Files 163 



INDEX. 257 

PAGE 

Use of Galvanic Current 150 

Use of the Massage Roller 156 

Use of Orangewood Stick 166 

Use of Parchment Strips 38 

Use of Powder 101 

Use of Stick Polish 169 

Use of Water Massage 40 

Use of the Vibratile 62 

Using the Comedone Extractor 68 

Using the Hair Brush Electrode 204 

Using Hypodermic Syringe 70 

Utensils Necessary in Making Creams 26 

Value of Systematic Work 41 

Value of Taking Rest 228 

Varieties of Blackheads 65 

Vegetable and Organic Dyes 217 

Vegetable Powder 102 

Vertical Lines 58 

Vibratile 156 

Vibratile in Use . . . , 62 

Violet Jelly 107 

Vermin in Hair 202 

Warts, Treatment of 143 

Wash for Mouth 184 

Water Massage 40 

Wet Cell Batteries 124 

Weak Eyes Cause Lines 34 

Weather Worn Appearance Caused by Tan 98 

Weights, Table of Body 125 

What Causes Wrinkles 32 

W T hitening Paste for the Hands 165 

Why Creams are Necessary 20 

Why We Massage 39 

Withered Skins 93 

Wool Hair, or Lanugo 22 

Women, Busy, May Exercise 236 

Work of Electrolysis Remunerative 128 

Work, How Long to, in Electrolysis 126 

Work of Massaging the Face 57 

Work on Warty Growths 145 

Wrinkles, and What Causes Them 32 

Wrinkle Treatment, Certainty 'of Improvement in 63 

Youthful Appearance of Ancient Greeks 21 

Youth Preserved by Massage 39 

Zinc Ointment 141 

Zinc Powder 127 



MARINELLO 




Electrolytic Water Massage, complete . . .• $6.00 

Comedone Extractor 1 . 25 

Antiseptic and Bleaching Lotion 1 . 00 

Lettuce 75 

Acne Cream .50 

Whitening Creme 50 

Tissue Food 50 

Zinc Ointment 50 

Paste Soap 50 

Vegetable Face Powder (absolutely pure) 50 

Pencil Nail Polish 25 

Geranium Jelly 25 

MANUFACTURED BY 

MARINELLO COMPANY 

57 WASHINGTON ST., CHICAGO, ILL. 

N. B. — It has been the aim of the authoress to make this book a 
practical method of instruction to all women who wish to work cor- 
rectly. Any points that are not clearly understood will be cheerfully 
explained to all who address their communications to Emily Lloyd, 
Suite 720, Western Methodist Book Concern Bldg., Chicago, 111. 



Electric Massage Battery 




Prepare the face with Lettuce Cream. Allow the patient to hold in his hand 
the metal Electrode attached to the battery. Attach the No. 1 handle and spongio 
disc to the other pole of the battery, and apply it to the forehead and face accord- 
ing to the tolerance of the patient. The Spongio Disc must be thoroughly wet, 
as the electricity passes through the moisture, and cannot pass through dry 
spongio. This application is especially beneficial in treatment of Headache, Neu- 
ralgia and Nervous Fatigue. The Massage Roller is used in the same manner 
as the Spongio Disc. Its especial merit is that when the chamois is well moistened 
a stronger current may be applied regularly to face and neck. 

Send for complete catalogue. 



McINTOSH BATTERY AND OPTICAL CO 

39 West Randolph Street, Chicago, III. 



M 
A 
S 
S 
A 
G 
E 



McINTOSH 14 DRY CELL 
COMBINED BATTERY 



E LECT ROLYSIS 

L 

E 

C 

T 

R 

I 

C 




The best portable bat- 
tery on the market for 
work of Electrolysis 
and Facial Massage. 
Contains twelve cells in 
the Galvanic portion, 
giving ample current for 
removal of hair, moles, 
etc. Affords a smooth, 
even current for Facial 
Massage. Finely finished 
and covered with best 
leather. 



We are Headquarters for Dermatological Appliance. 

NEW VACUUM CUP 
MASSAGE ELECTRODE 



A popular and efficient 
instrument for vacuum 
massage; especially con- 
structed to give a vacuum 
of proper degree for facial 
treatment. May be 
used with any faradic 
massage battery. 



Send for literature and prices 

McINTOSH BATTERY & OPTICAL CO. 

Chicago 




FEB 27 1905k 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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